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I think what ***** nilly means about 'damn near impossible ' is with a true locker in the front axle, when the front axle is locked, it is very difficult to steer, even in snow. Lockers are best when traveling straight and not turning, unless you are stuck already wheels turned. For regular daily driving use like the OP plans, True Track seems like the better choice. My buddy's 250 Tremor front LSD seems good for regular offroad or snow road use. if you want more traction up front only when you are really stuck or about to be, and not for regular offroad travel, then the true locker is best.
I think what ***** nilly means about 'damn near impossible ' is with a true locker in the front axle, when the front axle is locked, it is very difficult to steer, even in snow. Lockers are best when traveling straight and not turning, unless you are stuck already wheels turned. For regular daily driving use like the OP plans, True Track seems like the better choice. My buddy's 250 Tremor front LSD seems good for regular offroad or snow road use. if you want more traction up front only when you are really stuck or about to be, and not for regular offroad travel, then the true locker is best.
If you have enough traction that it's difficult to steer... you don't need the axle locked.
There is a substantial difference between the tru trac and the Tremors factory clutch type limited slip. The limited slip will never deliver more than 20% torque to the side not spinning, and it sacrifices itself when doing so. The clutches wear out pretty quickly with use. The tru trac I think can almost lock, it will provide way more traction that the Ford lsd and it wont degrade with use. You might feel a little more tugging at the wheel when it is working but out of 4wd it doesn't come into play at all. The tru trac will not make it hard to steer like a full locker. It really is probably the best choice for this application. I think the full locker is overboard in front for the OP's desired use.
You should never use a locked diff for the steering axle as it can shear an axle when turning. An LS or Eaton will allow some slip while turning while still applying power to both wheels. A locker has zero slip and is VERY hard on u-joints. The Tru-Trak is probably the best setup for a steering axle as it provides power to both wheels automatically while still providing differential. For muddy snowy roads you want some slip to prevent damage while providing full traction to both wheels.
The locker may be fine for rock crawling since you are driving in low and going very slow, but for back roads in mud and snow, not that great an idea. You could be going 30 MPH on those roads as opposed to 5 MPH on rocks.
If you have enough traction that it's difficult to steer... you don't need the axle locked.
In my experience, this is not true. I am describing when you are operating your vehicle in deep snow offroad, where regular 4wd with or withour front limited slip turns easy, and with the front axles locked, turning is difficult. . I know what you mean and agree when on firm ground and difficulty steering means you probably dont need 4wd.
In my previous truck I installed the factory rear E locker and added a Spartan “lunchbox” style locker in the front axle. I agree with most people above that it really depends where the vehicle is planned to be used. One of my favorite things about the front locker, was if I was pulling a trailer on uneven muddy ground I could lock the front and leave the rear unlocked. This would keep the truck from wanting to jack knife if I was off camber since the front was pulling more. If I ever had only the rear locker on in 4x4, the trailer would immediately jack knife if it saw any sloped terrain.
Only issues I ever had with front / rear locker setup was two broken axle shafts in the front, lucky the F450 1550 axles are a direct drop in replacement!
Detroit Truetrac for sure it isn't like the old clutch type limited slips that people often refer to when they say the don't want a limited slip in the front axle. The Truetrac feels and functions just like an open differential until one wheel starts to loose traction then it transfers torque to the wheel with greater traction making it a great limited slip to put in a front axle, it also requires no air lines, wires or cables to work like a selectable locker does which makes it more reliable.
All I know is that I’ve had a lot of trucks with a LS in the rear, both clutch type and helical gear type, and I was less than impressed with them. My current rear locker is an amazing improvement. IMO, I would also apply that to the front in my circumstances. Sure, some people would be just fine with a LS in the front. Basically a set it and forget it option that is better than an open diff, but in many situations will still leave one front tire spinning and the other stationary.
I realize that not many people are going to be putting these trucks in a situation that actually warrants full lockup. But I just think spending the money and going through the effort to install something, it should be the best traction aid available.
I just fail to see the situation where if a LS front diff makes the difference, that a locked front diff can’t be used in the same scenario.
The Truetrac works far better than any factory limited slip and if you get into a situation where only one wheel is spinning all you have to do is tap the brake and it will transfer torque to the wheel with greater traction. My favorite setup for a street and offroad vehicle is a Detroit locker in the rear and a Truetrac up front.
With manual hubs, you can run a true locker (even a welded diff or spool) up front without any issues (lots of guys doing this, just search the jeep forums). My buggy (tube chassis, tons, atlas, 43's, etc.) has detroits in both the front and rear -- the front is so tight it, I can't get it on the trailer (even in a gravel parking lot in 2wd) without unlocking one of the hubs, it just pushes through a turn. IMO, which isn't worth much, I think the Truetrac is just about the perfect solution if you're needing that much traction in a daily driver -- it works almost as good as a detroit/arb/e-locker without having to drill into the pumpkin and introduce another chance of failure/leak. If you're routinely lifting a tire than a true locker is the obvious choice.
With manual hubs, you can run a true locker (even a welded diff or spool) up front without any issues (lots of guys doing this, just search the jeep forums). My buggy (tube chassis, tons, atlas, 43's, etc.) has detroits in both the front and rear -- the front is so tight it, I can't get it on the trailer (even in a gravel parking lot in 2wd) without unlocking one of the hubs, it just pushes through a turn. IMO, which isn't worth much, I think the Truetrac is just about the perfect solution if you're needing that much traction in a daily driver -- it works almost as good as a detroit/arb/e-locker without having to drill into the pumpkin and introduce another chance of failure/leak. If you're routinely lifting a tire than a true locker is the obvious choice.
Something in your Detroit isn't working right if that is the case, in 2wd with the hubs locked it should turn just as easily as with an open differential.
As far as your vehicle can take you. Look at what "Overlanders" do. Full size trucks on lifts with big tires, locked axles, winches and slide in campers driving through wilderness mountains, rivers, jungles, etc, etc, many times where they need to blaze their own paths.
we arent talkin purpose built overlanders with big mud tires and winches and armored undercarriages. 3mi out my front door theres offhighway roads and trails you couldnt get a standard pickup and camper with out beating the snot from it
And besides, I think the OP has something more along the lines of a service body or welding bed vs. a camper. Says he uses the truck offroad for work a lot. Not camping.
yup, you’re right, it’s a welding rig. Ends up all over the country. I appreciate your input. What’s your opinion on the rear locker ford uses? I’ve always used a Detroit locker in my previous fords with the sterling rear end.
The Truetrac works far better than any factory limited slip and if you get into a situation where only one wheel is spinning all you have to do is tap the brake and it will transfer torque to the wheel with greater traction. My favorite setup for a street and offroad vehicle is a Detroit locker in the rear and a Truetrac up front.
Tapping the brake also applies brakes to the wheel that you WANT to turn. I've been there done that with trucks and ATV's. Remember the old e-brake trick? Doesn't work too well.
yup, you’re right, it’s a welding rig. Ends up all over the country. I appreciate your input. What’s your opinion on the rear locker ford uses? I’ve always used a Detroit locker in my previous fords with the sterling rear end.
I've had zero complaints with the factory rear locker. I really haven't read any threads on here in 5+ years about any locker issues. Offroaders seek out these axles as an easy swap.
I have mine wired to an upfitter switch so I can engage it at will...bypasses the factory nannies (will not engage over 20mph. Automatically disengages over 25mph. Traction control can take over control of the locker (disengaging it) at will)
I also have my ABS and traction control/RSC on an upfitter switch. There is no way to turn these off otherwise.
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