How many pro-street trucks are there on this site ,and how did yall d o yours 4 link,latter bar,or moving the leaves inboard. I did a 77tk and now a 65 by moving the leaves inside the frame works real well and you got to love the big wide meats on the back. I did a seach could not fine none and went through some pics in the gallery.

 

I'd like to see some pics if you can create a gallery we'd all like to take a peek. My uni is slowly going that direction but I think it's just too heavy to do anything more than a mild hot rod build on it. Of course the chop top article in this months Classic Trucks, 3.5" on a 64, is really tempting.

 

Will be Pro Streeting my 66 beginning this winter. I would like to see some pics of someone doing it with leaf springs....either moved to the inside of the frame or the frame boxed and narrowed on that area.

Anyone??????

 

63 short bed uni Pro Street under construction, used competition enginering ladder links with coil overs and a 12 " step in the frame.

The chop in classic trucks does not tell you how they are going to get a windshield in the truck. doing it chevy style as in the article does not take it into account that the roofs on our trucks move in four directions at once with a curved winshield, bad for chopping...and with a custom windshield running 3 grand ............way too steep for the average joe home builder

Look in my album Garbz for pics on the uni.

As i like to say welcome to the dark side... LOL

Pro Street Rules.....

Garbz

63 SB SW Pro Street uni in progress
62 SB SW F250 uni
66 Super Crew in progress

 

Im gonna go pro street with my 66
I had to redo the wiring and I just ran toggle switches for the necessities... so Im gonna go ahead and tub it.
Best bet.... is buy a rear frame kit... or a tube chassis.
We just tubbed a 75 Maverick and we got the read frame kit with a 4 link for under 1200 bucks.

 

hey !
i have a 65 ford f100 pro street truck! i moved
the leaf springs inside the frame rails! turned out very
nice! 15x14 inch wheels with 31x18.50 15 hoosier
radials! when i can figure out how to put pictures on
this site. i will let yall know! also rumming big block
ford engine! any questions please feel free to ask!

thanks terry !!!

 

How exactly do you move the leaf springs inside the springs?

 

Andy

Here is the method i have used in the past to flip the leafs inboard.

A) remove the leafs from each side and grind or torch the rivit heads for the hangers. then punch out the four rivits with a drift and a good BFH. Do one side at a time and mark everything removed as passenger or drivers.

B) Clean/Dressup up the factory holes and re drill to 7/16"uss drill size.

C) look at the rear frame section and take a large fitzall (adjustable wrench) and tweak the frame top and bottom untill it is parallell. Grind the edges of the top and bottom rail even using the outside of the frame as a refrence. (a square works well with a scribe to give the same distance on each hanger area.)

D) Make up four 12"x frame height boxing plates from 1/8"mild steel. and make up 16 1/2"dia. spacers from at least sch 80 steel pipe. trim the plates to fitment within 1/2 of the 1/8" plate is exposed for good penetration and weld in place oppsite of the spring hanger. use at least a 220 volt welder to get the necessary weld penetration.

E) After welding the boxing plates use the previously drilled holes as a guide and drill the boxing plates in the pattern of the spring hangers. Here comes the tricky part.... fit the spacers in behind the boxing plate buy carefully grinding for a friction fitment. Dont force them in just enough for the fit to be snug.

F) Re drill the spring hangers out to the correct 7/16" uss drill used on the frame holes.

G) Select the approiate 7/16th grade eight bolt with the minimal ammount of thread within the frame section and insert thru the frame from the outside. grade eight washers and nylock nuts finish the trim out.

H) Mount the drivers side front hanger to the passenger front frame rail and follow in the same fashion for the remainder of the hangers.

Bolt everything and torque to about 100 ft lbs and she is complete.

now modifing the leaf springs and rear are additional disortations.

I have pictures hiding somewhere of the mods on my uni but after i finished it did not look "Pro Street" enough and i swithced to the ladder links. My total cost on the inboard flip was about 20.00 washingtons as i tend to recycle stuff and have lots of plates and pipe hanging about. Figgure to spend about a Benjamin doing the whole thing.

Garbz

 

Hrm... sounds like a lot of work
Do you still have to narrow the rearend up?
If so... it's not a big deal, but if I have to do it, im just gonna backhalf it

 

Andy

Work? thats the fun in this game is to tinker and tweak. i have a strict policy to try it my self and if i screw it up i can always buy it.

I narrowed my rear to 46" face of flange to face of flange with the pinion offset 1 1/4". the pinion offset is a critical thing as all engines in our trucks 61 to 66 are offset to the passenger side.

This allows a use of standard 3 3/8" offset wheel. I am using Center line 15x14 w 3 3/8 BS Convopros with Hooiser 31x16.5 pro street radials. this will leave me 1 inch between the frame and the rear quarter panel on the unibody with the 4 inches of body ground clearance at ride height.

I am using aerospace components disc brakes which you must take into account for the additional 1/4" they take up so the actual dimension for the rear is 46 1/2" inches..

It is not necessary to narrow if you run a massive back spacing on the rims but they will be custom and big bucks.

There is plenty of room for the tires without going thru the expense of a back half.

The cheapest way to get there is the leaf springs inboard and the axle flipped to the top of the springs.

Garbz

 

Thanks...
I might try it but I really doubt it.
Im going to build my truck either on a tube chassis, or back half it and put a mustang 2 front end under it (most likely tube chassis)
I dont want to totoally screw up the truck so I can't drive it w/o back halfing it to start with
Plus if I backhalf it, I can use the old rear frame for my bed trailer :P
Thanks for the help, I may give it a shot but im not sure

 

Ok this is how i have did 2 of my trucks, there are a lot of donor frames out there so walk up to one thats been picked clean . Most people will give it 2 you take a sawzall and cut the frame about 5 inches each side of spring mounts when you get through you will have 4 pieces frame with the mounts on them they can be fit inside the frame and you dont even touch your old mounts they will sill be there if you want to go back. On the 77 i banded stock wheels to 14in wide to the inside looks cool and stock from the side . I will try to get some pics on here soon the 65 has all the frame work done and i dont have the wheels on yet i have the 16in wide wheels for it need the axels have not try it out yet im sure it will work well the 77 i drove every day and drove it from N.C. to TENN. F-100s 3 times on 29-1850s I want a narow rearend in my 65

 

they are moved to the frame, and i get 15.5's under the rear. I'll add those to my gallery shortly. Hurry up with those pics, tatonka.....we need some fresh material.

 

hi!
i'am trying to figure out how to get
my pictures posted as we speak! can anyone
help me!

thanks terry!

 

I posted Pics in my Gallery, Be sure to check out album 2
(65 Prostreet tk in progress) It has pics of the leafs moved....

P.S. Better late the never