'02 Excursion Alternator 'I' wire issue
Just has 38 mV on it Key ON, and about 3 or 4 mV key OFF
The Wiring diagram only shows a single wire from the cluster's bulb indicator as being 'LG/RD' in color,
but it does not go direct to my alternator.
tracing backwards from the Alternator, the 'I' wire is Orange and goes to this module's 'S' terminal.
anyone have a clue what that module is?
took a picture of the face of that module, hard to read the nomenclature
sure need to get this working, any ideas?
I finally figured out that a previous mechanix? screwed the pooch....
that wire does not have continuity to the Central Junction Box / CJB.
so, what I did was to get a Add-a-Fuse-Tap-adapter and slip it over F2-45 and run a New Wire to the "I" terminal on the Alternator.
( that is the 4th fuse, from the Right side of the CJB bottom row. )
now, the Alternator is energized as soon as the key is ON, but as it is not turning, the alternator does not output anything.
at first, I was worried about applying over-voltage to the Glow Plugs after the Engine starts.....
so I just changed my habits on starting the truck....
I watch the Power Point DVM real close, and when I see the voltage start to climb back up by about 2/10ths of a volt, I hit the starter.... that means the glow plugs are now off...
been that way now ever since I figured out the problem.
Add a Fuse Adapter
.
I put a Tape label over the wire, "Alternator"
that wire can be a small gauge, it does not have very much current thru it.
DVM in the Power Point socket
that DVM shows the batteries drop to 10.5 ~ 11.5 depending on Ambient temperature outside, and state of battery charge.
I watch it real close, when it starts climbing up, I hit the starter.
if you look at the top right, F2-45 is noted there.
Follow that mess of stuff Vertically down, and eventually, you see that it will feed the 'I' terminal on the Alternator.
what I did, was just bypass all of that, because my wiring harness is messed up....
I tried to find the "open" in that lead, but with it going through so much stuff, and with it getting buried inside the harness insulation, and wire loom, I was not about to start exposing every wire in the harness and the sticking a "prod" into the insulation to see where the break is.
Thus, I just ran a new wire, Job 1 done.

this idea just plain works.









