Hello,

Looking for some insight or direction. We have a 1997 F-350 7.3 that we use on our small farm. This thing has taken a beating and was running great until 8-9 months ago. Did some routine maintenance and the truck slowly progresses to a crank no start. It sat for two months and I have been trying to get it going again.

Pulled and tested glow plugs first. Three were bad, tons of corrosion on the tips. Decided to replace all. While the valve covers were off pulled the injectors, installed new O rings, and cleaned them up. One of the injector cups looked pretty bad and as I was already this far decided to replace the cups too. Evacuated all of the cylinders of oil, reinstalled everything. The valve cover gasket wiring was cracked and had exposed wiring. Replaced both as well. Installed new ICP sensor and harness as there was oil in the in the pigtail. Glow plug relay tested good. Replaced the Cam Sensor, tested voltage at pigtail, and was getting 5V,24mV, and .8ohms. Replaced pigtail as it was in pretty bad shape. Still not getting 5V,12V, and .5ohms. The wiring harness all looks good and I don't see any cracks or chafing in the wire. Tach is jumping a tiny amount, but not steady. There is no smoke from the tailpipe. Cranked and cranked, recharged batteries, let the starter cool between cycles. Still no start. WTS light is working.

Since I am getting low voltage (24mV) and little to no movement at the Cam Shaft Sensor, could it be the PCM is bad? Without a breakout box is there any way to test it?

This truck has 260,000 miles and was a mobile tire repair truck before we purchased it at 130,000. It has quote of bit of random wiring left behind from the the compressors, emergency lights, etc, but it does have the liftgate which we use a lot and was functional before it started having problems.

Any insight would be appreciated!

Thanks!

 

You can't test a hall-effect sensor with a volt meter.

Edit:

Jumped the gun. Oopsie.

Have you tested for the proper voltage on the green wire at the 42-pin connector as well?

 

might have to take the loom apart and trace the wires back to the 42 pin connector for breaks
drivers side it rubs and chafs the wires over time on the VC