Did you ever have your alternator tested?

 

Not by licensed mechanic.

Results from my TopDon battery tester are in image couple post back.

Testing with volts meter when motor running is high 13 to low 14's.

 

That must be throwing some codes.

 

How did the grounds look?

 

DOH!

13.8-14.2V output from your alternator with the engine running is ideal. You could always remove the alternator and take it in to be bench tested, but I'm with JKBrad. Double check your grounds from the negative battery cable.

 

Here are 2 screens from Forscan.

 

Clean ... checked as many as I could find

 

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Time to start all over again because your not getting anywhere in identifying any issue.
1. What type battery was the original and what type was the replacement? Lead Acid or AGM type.
2. A BMS system is not re-set with a battery power down. There is a reason why.
3. An excess drain has to be checked for >after shut down rest period has passed<.
4. Lets go from here after we know what we have to work with because the battery type has a lot to do with the parameters you see and how they are handled by the control system.
There is a lot to know beyond the old systems you where familiar with.
Good luck.

 

Thanks for reply.
Yeah I screwed up and did not take note of original battery.
I replaced with Duralast Gold Lead acid 730 CCA.

Image below shows batteries for my year and model but still does not give a definite answer.
I do have a V6 3.5L .... basic as could be.
My guess is lead acid for I seem to recall reading that AGM batteries were used in trucks with the start/stop feature, which I do not have.

 

Looks like the right type you now have.
Looking at the attempts to crank is a hint.
Starting after the 4th attempt is a major item to find out why.
It could be the start circuit, could be the Starter.
The Battery voltage at 10 volts during cranking is ok so the start circuit has the power but something else is the cause.
It is cables, the Starter or the start circuit.
The battery control is the first version, not the same as the version with Auto stop start.
Normally the BMS has the age info that cannot be re-set with power down because if it were, and some other maintenance needed the battery disconnected, the age info would be lost. The reason is the battery charge is adjusted based on age and internal resistance stored in that controller.
Not re-setting for a new battery would treat the new as the old one and undercharge the new battery.
The reset is done ether by a Tool or a procedure done in the truck. You see, the reset is guarded so the battery data is not lost to other maintenance functions.
Every time the battery is disconnected it forces the computer to lose all learned driving data store in tables, cold start functions to relearn and causes the program to go into full diagnostics that may not complete for several driving cycles.
After the cranking issue is solved, the drain issue needs to be checked. The drain after system sleep, needs to be less than about 100 milliamps and closer to 50 ma. That is a low drain for a large fully charge battery and should not drain a healthy battery for more than a month if there are no faults.
To refresh, if the Battery has a good charge but there is a cranking issue. What is it?
After starting what is the charging voltage? That depends on how long the crank time was to replace the battery charge lost. The voltage can range as high as 15 volts on a battery that is very low or aged. Then how fast does the charge voltage drops is a measure of how good/fast the battery is recovering. The charge voltage to force current back to the battery is determined by the difference between the battery voltage and the Regulator internal reference.
It's a lot to throw at you but these things need to be understood for troubleshooting decisions to be made.

 

Thanks for that explanation bluegrass 7

I went to Ford dealer yesterday and they said they can look at on the Wed 22nd.

Lets say it's not cables, starter, or start circuit.

Are you saying the battery would have to be at full charge when the battery reset is done ... so it see's it as a new battery ?

 

I don't know what this is telling me.
Can you elaborate?

If the first battery test was with the battery tester probes on the battery cable clamps and the second battery test with the battery tester probes on the battery POSTS that would indicate a high resistance between the clamps and the posts.

 

Yes your voltmeter will give the same reading at the posts OR at the clamps.
The voltmeter doesn't load the circuit so a poor connection between the post and the clamp will read the same.

The battery tester will load the circuit when it tests for internal resistance.
Loaded the two connection points will read different if there is any resistance.

To verify, with the battery connected, put one voltmeter probe on the cable clamp and one probe on the battery post.
Set your meter to a lower DC voltage scale.
Have someone crank the engine and read the meter while it is cranking.
(Cranking puts a heavy load on the connection between the post and the cable.)

Your meter will read the voltage that is being dropped through the connection if there is any resistance.
You want to see less than 0.1 volts dropped at that connection.

Then do the same for the opposite battery post and cable connection.

 

Sometimes I turn on the ignition and it's dead ... as no battery connected.

Sometimes 1st turn of ignition will start. Sometimes 2 or 3 turns of ignition will start it.

It's random ... though it has taken as many as 5 or 6 tries before starting.
If multiple tries, that's when I get the message/image shown earlier.
"System charging Service Now "

When I go somewhere, park and do my business ... it will start 1st try 99.9% of the time.

Weird.

 

Thanks ... will have to try that next time my son stops by .. should be before weekend.