I am helping yet another friend, with yet another truck. When will I learn? 1995 F150, 2WD, 5.0L The truck has sat for several years. There is fire from the coil to the distributor, and that's as far as it goes. My first guess would be the pick-up in the distributor, but I have also considered the Crank Position Sensor. If it turns out to be the pick-up coil, I will probably replace the entire distributor. I would like to check the CPS first, but I don't know where it is. You tube videos offer everything but a '95, F150 with a 5.0. Can someone please tell me where to find it, and a test procedure? Thanks Greg

P.S. Unless there is another component I should be looking at first.

 

The pick-up in the distributor, aka PIP sensor, is also called the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) in a lot of Ford documentation. One and the same...

If the coil is firing when cranking then your issue is not the PIP or the Ignition Control Module (ICM).

 

I got a new rotor and distributor cap. I just don't see what else it could be. I will try them tomorrow.

 

Pretty good write-up here to test for spark and the PIP signal in Test 7: How To Test The Ford Ignition Control Module

 

I have put my timing light on several of the spark plug wires. No spark. When I put the timing light on the coil wire directly, I have spark.

 

I replaced the distributor cap, and rotor. No change. I am at a loss.

 

You may have enough spark to trigger the timing light but not enough to fire at the plugs. Remove the end of the coil wire going to the distributor. Place it with a gap near a good ground, crank the engine. Observe if there is actual spark and if so...what color. Could be a simple bad coil wire or the coil itself is getting weak.

 

I have a new coil. I am going to try it today. weather permitting. Thanks Greg

Weather didn't permit.

 

I FINALLY got back out to the truck today. I replaced the coil, no change. Then I thought about the induction type timing light, not being able to pick up on the signal for whatever reason. I figured I would spray a little starting fluid into the TBI, crank it, and see if it would fire. So I did, and it did;. SUCCESS ! Now I have another problem. When I turn on the key, I have spark to the coil, my check engine light comes on, and I am reminded to put on my D*** n seat belt., but the fuel pump does not run, and the gauges do not work. I rigged up a temporary fuel system with a milk jug and inline fuel pump, and it ran surprisingly well. I haven't checked any fuses yet, that will wait until I can get the truck back to my garage. Can you tell me this? Does this fuel system have a return line back to the tank? Thank You for all your help. Greg

P.S. Nor is the alternator charging the battery

 

Yes it does.

If other circuits are not energizing when the key is cycled from Off to Run and/or Start I would suspect a failing ignition switch or the nylon actuator is bent/broke.

 

I thought I posted this once, but now I don't see it. I will try again. In got the truck back to my garage. Sitting out in the Illinois weather for 6 years didn't do it any good. I checked the wiring diagram for the truck. I found a couple wires were missing from the solenoid. I finally found them, cut off, about a foot or so back from the solenoid. I don't know if someone did this to deter theft or what, but i fixed them, and hooked them up to the solenoid. when I turned the key to start, I had 12 volts going to the solenoid, but it did nothing, so I replaced it. That took care of that problem, the truck now starts with the key, and everything turns on, including gauges, and fuel pump. I pumped out all the old gas, replaced it, and the fuel filter. I also replaced spark plugs and wires, rotor, cap, coil, When changing the spark plug wires I watched a Youtube video, just to make sure I had them right. The firing order the video showed was nothing like what I had, but I matched it anyway. THAT sure as H*** didn't work. I checked another video, it showed a completely different firing order. THAT worked. There was an hour wasted. Then came the brakes, of which there wasn't any. That was a fun ride back to town. In the end I replaced two brake lines, both calipers, and pads. For a truck that sat for 6 years, it runs surprisingly well. There were no codes, but the owner called this morning, and said the check engine light was on when he got home, so I will have to investigate that.

 

Thanks for the update.

 

This truck has developed a problem. While it was at the farm, I took off the air hoses going too the throttle body, so I could spray starting fluid into it. Once started, it ran and idled fine. Now the check engine light is on. I can't make heads or tails out of reading the codes, guess I'm just too "toopid !" Now it idles very fast, 1000 RPM or more, and is running rough. Now if I disconnect the hoses going to the throttle body, it won't even run. It dies instantly. The idle screw is backed off to the point where it's not touching anymore. The air filter is clean. I don't know if I knocked off a vacuum line somewhere or what. Any ideas? Thanks Greg

 

Invest in a code reader if you cannot figure out how to count the flashout.


That is not an idle screw. It's sole function in life is to prevent the throttle blades from closing too far then sticking in the throttlebody bore. Put it back to where it was.


You may have done that or broken some. The high idle is the clue for a vacuum leak.

 

Update on the truck. The owner dropped it off today, stating the heater controls were not working right. Knowing that a lot of these older trucks use vacuum to operate doors, that kind-a solidified the vacuum leak idea. I started checking vacuum everywhere. There was none to the door located just ahead of the heater core, I had taken the blower motor out. There was none going to the EGR valve. I removed the heater controls from the dash. No vacuum there either. Long story short, the only place I found vacuum was the tree on the intake manifold. The brake booster did have vacuum. I started tracing vacuum lines the best I could. They have some of them pretty well hidden. I was trying to trace the vacuum lines from inside the truck, through the firewall, and into the engine compartment. While I was fumbling around in there, my hand brushed against a 3/4" hose. It moved. It moved more than I thought it should move. In the end. I found this.

I don't know what it is, but it appears to be broke to me. The rest of it is still in the engine. It requires a 1 1/4" socket. I have tried my cordless 1/2" impact, and a breaker bar, but it won't budge. I have a corded 1/2" impact, that is stronger, but I'm afraid if I brake this thing off, the only way to fix it, would be to pull the intake, or the whole motor. I aint gonna do that. In the morning I will try a little heat, and see if that helps. Anyone know what this thing is? Thanks Greg