When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It prevents exhaust gasses from going into the smog pump hose. It's probably screwed into an exhaust manifold or pipes going to the smog ports in the heads for feeding air from the smog pump during warm-up operation. With it broken like that, exhaust can push out, making noise, but I'm not sure if that would cause air leaking into the engine's intake. My guess is maybe the vacuum line that feeds the solenoids that actuate the AIR system, one for enable/dump and the other for feeding the heads or the cats, could be broken, allowing vacuum leaks.
You are right, I was wrong. I thought it screwed straight into the block or manifold. It actually screws into a pipe that crosses over from one head to the other, and do you know what happens when you put a more powerful, corded, 1/2" impact on it, Nothing good, I can assure you.
It will take that old rusty metal pipe, and twist it up, like a pretzel. I also said I was going to try some heat in the morning. Curiosity got the better of me. I haven't been to bed yet. My wife is sooooo happy!On the passenger side, it twisted the pipe and broke it. On the drivers side, it broke off at the head. Not even an 1/8" left to get anything on to. I had a 1/4" X 3" pipe nipple. It would kind-a screw into the head side. I ground the one end to accept a 1/2" ratchet wrench, smeared the other end with JB WELD. And it actually screwed in pretty tight. Now at least I had something to put a hose on. All I had was heater hose. I'm not sure how well it will withstand the heat, but time will tell. I also had to put s T in the hose for the rubber pipe that previously went to said "Air Injection Reaction check valve" All of this was done with heater hose and pipe fittings I had on hand. Strange as it may seem, Auto Zone isn't open at 2 in the morning. Is it perfect? Of course not, but it may last a while, anyway. Now I have another problem. I have a small red vacuum line with no place to call home. The yellow arrow.
There is also a small white wire, coming from under the manifold, that's just hanging around. I traced it back to a plug under the intake. It and another white wire, which comes out of a wire loom, connect to some kind of sensor.
Sooooooo...Does everything work now? Do I have vacuum everywhere I am suppose to? Do the heater controls work? Is the truck running / idling better? I have no idea. I have not put it all back together yet to find out. I'm afraid to. I'm afraid everything I have done in the last 12 hours, has been for naught. Right now I am going to go take a shower, and at some peanut butter cookies. The saga continues.
As I suspected, all that work, didn't do diddly squat. This truck has me a bit confused. Granted that doesn't take a lot, but usually I can figure out something. I can open and close the little door, that is located just behind the blower motor., either by hand or with a large syringe. It makes no difference though if the door is open or closed, the air blows through the defrosters. It doesn't change. Are there possibly 2 doors that work in conjunction with each other, and changes the air flow path? Also, on the back of the heater control panel in the truck, there is a manifold with several hoses on it. I assume one on the hoses is the main vacuum line coming in from the engine, and that vacuum is diverted to whch ever hose is "dialed up" so to speak. Does anyone know which hose would be the main line coming in? Is there a diagram somewhere showing this? Thanks Greg
Lets assume that there is no vacuum leak. What part on the engine could go bad, and make the truck act as though there was a vacuum leak? EGR valve? TPS? Temp sensor?
If your truck has a lot of those really skinny plastic vacuum lines, those that live under the hood are the most likely to crack. I would follow every one of them to make sure they aren't cracked or broken. Replace with rubber hoses if they're cracked.
I replaced all the plastic vacuum lines with rubber hose. I watched video after video, about the white vacuum line in the wire loom, that controls the door on the heater. Of all the videos I watched, none of them explained that there was also a black line in that same loom. Except one. The last one of course. All the lines are good now, and the door is operating as it should. Now I discovered I have a couple of holes in the coffee can looking canister.I have tried and tried to fine this "Vacuum Storage Canister" on Rock Auto or Auto Zone. No luck. Would anyone have a part number? Thanks Greg
I think even if you can't get the exact replacement, you should be able to find another vacuum reservoir to replace its function. I would find anything that would fit or be easily made to fit, and hook up the hoses.
I was directed to, and found some aftermarket canisters that were suppose to work, but I thought $60 for a coffee can with no coffee in it was a bit high. I removed the valve assembly from the rusted out can and made my own, using a section of 3" PVC, and 2 end caps. I drilled a 1 3/8" hole in one end, and glued the valve on with red RTV, and painted it black. Seems to be working well.
On another note:So, I have been working on this guys rototiller, and 2 trucks. The rototiller wasn’t too tough. New points and a spark plug. The red truck I believe has some internal engine problems, and is going to take some major work to make it right, although it does run. The black one is running very well, considering it sat out in the weather for the last 6 years. I really enjoy doing the work and making things right again, but………………..
Between the rototiller and the red truck, I did about $450 in parts and labor. On the black truck I have replaced, spark plugs and wires, distributor cap, rotor, coil, solenoid, a mile or so of vacuum line and hose, gas tank, fuel filter, gas tank filler hose, brake pads and calipers, a couple of brake hoses and lines, one heater hose, throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, air injection reaction check valve, blower fan on heater, thermostat, throttle body gasket, 2 engine coolant bypass hoses, hose clamps, headlight lamp, both tail lamps, ran new wiring to the back for lighting. Antifreeze and radiator flush. Lower radiator hose, and I’m sure there are a couple of things I forgot. Not to mention untold hours spent on this truck. Now he wants me to get his boat, an Allis Chalmers B, and a portable welderrunning. None of these things have ran since he gave up farming. That was over 25 years ago. He also has a fifth wheel camper, and a horse trailer that need repair. As I said earlier, I do enjoy the work, trying to bring things back to life again, but……. The guy simply doesn’t have any money. So far all of this has been done at my expense. He is still paying, albeit slowly, on the rototiller and red truck. He did manage to get a part time job, but says he is not sure his health will hold out to do it. The thing is, if I ever expect to get paid, I have to get the boat, Allis Chalmers, and welder running so he can sell them. The boat has sat in a pole barn for 25 years, and I don’t think it would be worth anymore running, than not running, which is very little. The trailer under it is worth more than the boat itself. I am in a Catch 22 situation. I have a 1976 El Camino, and a 1995 Dodge Stealth sitting in my driveway waiting to be put back together, and a 1989 Camaro at my storage building, also on hold. My wife is sooooo proud.
Well, it’s another day. Which one of these projects should I tackle first? It’s going to be a major accomplishment, just to get these things hauled to town, and in my garage.
That's a pretty good jerry-rig for replacing the vacuum canister. What you did will stop the vacuum leaks, and make the engine run better. But without a real reservoir, what could happen is when the engine is under load, the AC controls will not be able to hold their positions, and default to windshield defrost mode. This is not a problem for most people.
That's very altruistic of you to help "this guy", but hopefully you will be able to get to your own projects.
I also have a garage full of parts that need attending to. But my real work, the one that pays the bills, has kept me from doing all but the most critical repairs. It's a drag when the work that pays for you hobbies is not letting you get to your hobbies.
On the passenger side, it twisted the pipe and broke it. On the drivers side, it broke off at the head. Not even an 1/8" left to get anything on to. I had a 1/4" X 3" pipe nipple. It would kind-a screw into the head side. I ground the one end to accept a 1/2" ratchet wrench, smeared the other end with JB WELD. And it actually screwed in pretty tight. Now at least I had something to put a hose on. All I had was heater hose. I'm not sure how well it will withstand the heat, but time will tell. I also had to put s T in the hose for the rubber pipe that previously went to said "Air Injection Reaction check valve" All of this was done with heater hose and pipe fittings I had on hand. Strange as it may seem, Auto Zone isn't open at 2 in the morning. Is it perfect? Of course not, but it may last a while, anyway. Now I have another problem. I have a small red vacuum line with no place to call home. The yellow arrow.
This truck has me a bit confused. Granted that doesn't take a lot, but usually I can figure out something. I can open and close the little door, that is located just behind the blower motor., either by hand or with a large syringe. It makes no difference though if the door is open or closed, the air blows through the defrosters. It doesn't change. Are there possibly 2 doors that work in conjunction with each other, and changes the air flow path? Also, on the back of the heater control panel in the truck, there is a manifold with several hoses on it. I assume one on the hoses is the main vacuum line coming in from the engine, and that vacuum is diverted to whch ever hose is "dialed up" so to speak. Does anyone know which hose would be the main line coming in? Is there a diagram somewhere showing this? Thanks Greg
