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Extended crank first time cranking then fires right up after

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Old Mar 6, 2023 | 01:59 PM
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Extended crank first time cranking then fires right up after

On my 302 efi, it will crank 3-5 seconds after sitting for a bit maybe an hour. After that crank if I shut it off and crank or it doesn't fire the first time Ill crank and it fires instantly. What causes this? I know its fuel most likely but what in the fuel system is likely the culprit? Its not something I need to fix but id like to know so if I decide to fix it I can.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2023 | 02:02 PM
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I would start with fuel pressure test and see how fast it is dropping when you shut engine off.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2023 | 02:12 PM
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A very "general" statement for all equipment. Most have some sort of check valve somewhere in the fuel system to at least hold fuel up near the injector pump or carb.

Here is one that sounds similar to yours:
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-c4472_ds602881
 
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Old Mar 6, 2023 | 02:15 PM
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I’ll test the pressure and I’ll probably replace the in line pump and check valve whenever I get to that. Thanks
 
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Old Mar 7, 2023 | 05:55 AM
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On first crank up let the fuel pump cycle 3 or 4 times by turning key on/off. See if that helps with the extended crank start times.

There are 4 ways the fuel system will leak down, injectors,pressure regulator,fuel pump and of course a leak.
My 92 Ranger will hold for days some times and others it drop to Zero in less than 5 minutes other times it drop 1-2 pounds and hold for over an hour before it starts dropping. I have not found what is bad yet. I just cycle key 2-3 times and it will fire right up. I do know there is no fuel leaks and last check no fuel in the crankcase. I am trying to locate 6 new injectors for it before I pull fuel rail.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2023 | 05:32 PM
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I know this thread isn’t for this topic but I don’t want to create a new one. My rear tank came with the needle on E when I got it. If I switch it to the rear tank it keeps running like normal. I had it there for 10-20 seconds I didn’t want to burn the pump out if there was nothing. I put Stabil storage additive in there before I knew it was on E. Is there a chance the tanks work fine and no issues? Or is this a sign of one of the many issues this fuel system has?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2023 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Anonymous12
I know this thread isn’t for this topic but I don’t want to create a new one. My rear tank came with the needle on E when I got it. If I switch it to the rear tank it keeps running like normal. I had it there for 10-20 seconds I didn’t want to burn the pump out if there was nothing. I put Stabil storage additive in there before I knew it was on E. Is there a chance the tanks work fine and no issues? Or is this a sign of one of the many issues this fuel system has?
sounds like its working . Dump some gas in there and run it and see what happens. Having 2 working tanks is always better than one.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2023 | 05:55 PM
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Yea, I’ll dump some gas in there hopefully by next weekend gotta get it running again.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2023 | 11:53 AM
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So now that I got the truck going good again I was messing with the long crank. I primed the fuel system by turning the key to the run position four times. And then I went to start it and it still had a long crank, it fired enough for me to let off the key and then it died. I crank it again, and it fires up immediately. But if I shut it off there’s a long crank either way. Could this be my IAC? I was asking in another thread yesterday I had it almost die trying to go out of high idle. They told me to clean it, but I haven’t because I need the gasket for it.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2023 | 11:56 AM
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Long crank time could be a weak fuel pump or leaking check/shuttle valve in the fuel delivery module. Even though you cycled the key several times you need to verify what the pressure at the fuel rail got charged up to.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2023 | 12:01 PM
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Did you check pressure? You may have an injector not sealing and leaking down, dealt with this on my C4 and a 733i last year.

After 35 years, new injectors are warranted. Early 00s units from say a 10th gen F150 work well, they are Design II Bosch. Still metal body but four pintle ends.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2023 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Anonymous12
So now that I got the truck going good again I was messing with the long crank. I primed the fuel system by turning the key to the run position four times. And then I went to start it and it still had a long crank, it fired enough for me to let off the key and then it died. I crank it again, and it fires up immediately. But if I shut it off there’s a long crank either way. Could this be my IAC? I was asking in another thread yesterday I had it almost die trying to go out of high idle. They told me to clean it, but I haven’t because I need the gasket for it.
Have you opened up your ECU to look for obvious problems?
 
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Old Apr 21, 2023 | 12:27 PM
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No, I did not.
I’ll get a fuel pressure tester and test that too.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2023 | 01:36 PM
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https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Started thinking about this topic again. Is this a good fuel pressure tester to loan?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2023 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Anonymous12
https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Started thinking about this topic again. Is this a good fuel pressure tester to loan?
_________________________________
You will get a lot of different opinions.
That is about an average kit. good enough for the hobby mechanic.
More expensive would be Snapon, MAC, etc
Cheaper would be Harbor Freight.
Pick your poison.
 
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