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I was unsuccessful in searching for steps to change the number 7 glow plug in a 2003 F250 PS 6.0. It appears to me the evaporator, or at least, the evaporator cover and heat shield, need to be removed so the glow plug bus bar came come out. If anyone has handled the glow plugs on the passenger side of a 2003 model I sure would appreciate some guidance.
For the passenger side buss bar removal: IIRC the shop manual recommends cutting the flange of the heater case for clearance. Use side cutters if possible.
Clearly removing the wheel and the wheel well liner is a big help if you haven't done that already.
EDIT: 11mm socket to remove the transmission fluid dipstick retaining nut.
There are youtube videos on this I believe. I usually save links, but apparently not on this.
Found them. When I was doing the last part of my engine build and the engine install, my other MAC had a hard drive issue and I've lost a lot of videos and some images. Which is why I have two MACs.
This is what I have, so it might help show where all the screws are to remove this. I believe I also opened up the plastic surround of the A/C drier. And bought a new heat shield. This was all done in dec 2021, and so far the HVAC aluminum tape has held up fine.
The last image gives you some idea of the clearance given for glow plugs and injectors.
That's a GREAT idea Jack! I just replaced injector #5 this weekend. Ended up pulling the evap box cover so I could get the valve cover back on without screwing-up the gasket like last time. If the valve cover is off there is more clearance but still a pain. Valve cover on is horrendous, even after trimming the flange like Mark suggested. It's getting the Jack treatment if I ever have to go back into that valve cover again. And I'm going to figure out a better way to fasten the shield that doesn't use tinnermans. What a STUPID design, but then my injector experience left me cursing Ford in a multitude of ways.
OP, there are three screws on the bottom of the box, Two are under the heat shield. One you can get to with heat shield on, but much easier without it.
Also, the nut for the tranny dipstick on my truck is a 10mm. If you have it, use a flex head ratcheting box wrench, FTW.
I don't really mind the tinnermans, I'm used to cutting them and replacing with new. But if you wanted to you could cut the posts, drill holes, and nut down probably some 6mm screws there, leaving enough thread for the heat shield and another nut.
Had to go back to the Sony XP computer to find that one. Not well focused, the bottom third.
Thank you Jack for the pics (they were very helpful) and to Mark for the suggestion to cut the corner of the evap cover. I actually cut the corner after removing the heat shield..I’ve replaced the #7 glow plug and installed a new bus bar. Next order of business is a new pigtail for the connection to the VGT solenoid. One day this truck might be the foundation for a slide in camper. Thanks again guys.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
