OEM U-Joints
Does anyone know what U-joints are installed at the factory? Sealed or greasable?? I was just checking my front end (2002 F-250) and looking at the axle u-joints and one side is sealed, one is greaseable. My drive shaft on this Crew Cab 4WD, was greaseable U-joints. So, I had to replace my front driveline and so I ordered sealed U-joints. I can't ever remember actually greasing any of these up and I am the original owner. I am going to redo the front end in the near months (new seals, new u-joints on the axles, new wheel bearing, new shocks, that kind of rebuild). For this rebuild it'll be sealed U-joints, because well, the truck is 21 years old
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I have had greaseable AND sealed ones last 60k+ miles, and I've also had them both last less than 5k miles. It's usually more about how you install them and how you care for them (oh and making sure they're a good quality unit) than anything.
I will always go with U Joints, Ball joints, Bush hog drive shafts and lawn mower decks with grease fittings.
On a sealed bearing fine particles of dust will migrate into the bearing. Having a grease fitting allows me to flush out both dust and metal as the bearing wears.
Recently I removed U Joints from my truck while replacing clutch / transmission. I found Ford OEM U Joints with 3 of the 4 bearings greased and one that appeared to never have had grease in it.
But again, I prefer manual window cranks to electric windows.
Hobo
Now I don't touch OEM u-joints unless I have legitimate reason to know they're bad. I maintain a small fleet all between 150k to 230k and I'd say 95% are on the factory u-joints.
I did have an OEM go bad on my '05 Canyon at 40k.
200k or more and never having to worry or pull out a grease gun....that's a choice I'll make every time.
Axle shaft (at the knuckles) joints are different. They seem to fail much more often.









