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I just purchased a 1994 F350 5.8L with the 351W. First project is to remove the exhaust manifold because of leaking and corrosion and sure enough I have three bolts that were previously broken off inside (hence the leaking). In order to drill them out I'm machining a template to screw onto the header using the good bolt holes and will have a guide bushing to drill out the broken ones. I want to make sure I'm dead center so I'm only removing bolt material and will tap the hole after. WHAT I'M LOOKING FOR: Does anyone know where I can find a drawing that shows the dimensions and centerlines of the header bolt spacing? I've taken measurements with calipers and think I'm close, but would feel better if I had a diagram to reference.
I cant help on the blue print drawing of the exh side of the head but will you be replacing the manifold with a new one?
Also using gaskets, yes I know factory did not.
Maybe between the new manifold & gasket you can come up with what you need.
I would also drill it out smaller than the bolt and use left handed drill bits.
You may get lucky that when drilling with the left handed bits the broken parts may back out.
Good luck
Dave ----
Definitely replacing with new manifolds and gaskets! Looks like someone tried to add a gasket awhile ago, but never extracted the broken bolts. I'm first going to use a smaller drill bit and see if I can back it up with and EZ-out. If not then I'll move to a larger bit and tap.
Before using the bolt extractor, don't forget a bunch of heat and (proper) penetrating oil. Then more heat. Then more oil. Heat. Oil. Heat. Oil. Heat. THEN get to work with the extractor.
I haven't used heat before. Like a little butane torch? I have some PB Blaster, will that work or is there a better penetrating oil? Also, are there any safety precautions I should be taking like scraping off oil, draining anything, etc. etc?
PB blaster works great. You'll want something bigger than a butane torch, propane or MAPP gas... something like the BernzOmatic 4000 or 8000 (if you have the choice, grab the 8000, it puts out more heat) works great and is something everyone should have in their shop. The heat will help the PB blaster penetrate, and a few heat cycles will usually help to loosen things up a tiny bit (every bit counts). It's always a good idea to wipe up any fluids or old gasket material etc that you think may ignite. As with anything fire-related, use some common sense and have a fire extinguisher nearby and you should be fine.
Center punch the bolt if you can before you start drilling, and I prefer to use a center drill before going to your first left hand drill bit, just to help ensure you stay as centered as possible. Once it's time for your first go with the extractor (don't use the cheap ones with very coarse "threads", use the ones with a very fine spirals... Irwin makes a good kit) give the extractor a decent whap or 3 with a hammer to seat it. The impact may also help break some of the old corrosion free... again, take whatever help you can get.
I like to make a mark when possible as to the bolts position to the surface. If you start turning the extractor and it feels like it's starting to move, this will help you tell if it's the extractor about to shear off, or the bolt itself moving. If the extractor starts to give, stop and take it out. The only thing worse than a broken bolt is a broken bolt with a broken extractor inside.
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