anyone else have the altinator bolt snap? I was going to replace the altinator, but the top bolt that goes into the head snapped off...any good ways to remove it?

 

I hate when that happens!

It might help to know what engine and year you are working on. I take it there isn't enough of the broken bolt sticking out to get a hold of?
Sometimes you can get lucky and be able to work the busted part of the bolt out with a couple of small picks.
You might also try taking a small punch or chisel and gently tapping along one edge of the busted off piece in a counterclockwise direction.Be gently and try lots of different angles...sometimes you blunder onto one that starts to move the busted piece.
Hopefully you can get it to move without having to resort to drilling and using an "easy out". Its danged near impossible to drill exaclty in the center of the broken bolt, andif you break the easy out off in the bolt then you are really hosed.

Good luck
Bobby

 

You can buy a left hand drill bit to use in a reversible drill. If you get lucky the bit will hang up in the broken bolt and back it right out.

 

If you was trying to remove the alternator and the bolt broke it must be really seized up.
I have used the punch and hammer to remove hundreds of broken bolts over the years and that might work with some good penatrating oil. If not try to take a punch and punch it as dead center as you can, as Bobby said its not easy. If you have or can borrow a center drill it makes it a little easier to drill then use an ease out on it. Hope this helps. As an after thought I have used the punch and hammer to punch the center and when you hit the punch it will shock the threads and loosen it up so you can then remove it with the punch or chisle.

 

First, soak the bolt stub at least once or twice a day with a GOOD penetrating oil such as Liquid Wrench or PB blaster. (WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil, it's just a lightweight lube oil in a spray can!) for 3 or 4 days. Next, if the bolt broke off proud or flush with the surface, you may be able to grind a slot in it with a cut off wheel in a dremel tool. It's ok if your slot cuts into the metal around the hole a bit due to the wheel diameter, the head boss should be plenty thick enough, try to get the slot at least an 1/8" deep and all the way across the stub. Now use a good flat bladed screw driver (I prefer one with a square shank so I can clamp a pair of vise grips or a wrench onto it for turning leverage) push the screwdriver as hard as possible into the slot and turn the screwdriver very slowly. If it doesn't immediately start to back out, try turning it in a little instead, then try to back it out again. Try to NOT strip the slot! If there is a danger of stripping the slot, stop and regroup. You can then try more penetrating oil, tapping the stub with a flat end punch and hammer (or next size smaller bolt if you don't have a flat end drift punch) The idea is not to try to drive the stub down, but to just shock the rust a bit to allow the oil to get in and do it's job. If that doesn't do it get out the torch, Ox-Ac or Propane and heat the stub as hot as you can get it, once it cools just enough to not burst into flames douse it with penetrating oil once more then allow to cool completely before trying to turn it again. If all that fails. then the last option would be to drill it out. I have never had real good experiences with easy outs, the tend to expand the bolt making it even tighter. I use a good set of sharp drills, centerpunch as close to center as possible, and start with an 1/8" drill. I try to drill completely through the bolt (but not so far as to go thru the head!). I then redrill the hole with the next size larger drill. I continue drilling with one size larger drills until I can just barely start see the threads starting to show on the thinnest side of the stub (one side will always be thinner unless by some dumb luck you drilled exactly down the center). At that point I put away the drill and get out a sharp pointed awl. I place the point of the awl on the thickest part of the stub and tap it slightly towards the center of the hole. It should collapse away from the threads into the hole where you should be able to remove it with a pair of needle nose pliers or by tapping it in a counter clockwise direction with the awl and hammer. Remove the debris with a pick and/or a bottoming tap. Even if you drilled into the threads slghtly on one side there should be plenty left to still hold, just don't overtighten the replacement bolt. (A little antiseize or grease on the bolt would be a good idea.)