Well a month after my last no start forum post (I figured my battery was causing a PATS antenna issue with the key).

Now after a week sitting in my garage waiting for me to change brake pads, once complete, the engine cranks but won't start!! There is no blinking theft light, etc.

I've searched the Expy & 4.6/5.4 forums for fuel & fuel pump answers. (On the 2000 I don't know how to check for spark anyway). I pulled the fuse for fuel pump-OK & swapped the relay with an identical one in the fuse box. nuthin. Checked the fuel cut-off switch-OK. I got under the fuel tank & listened for some sort of whine. nuthin. Smacked the general area with a hammer to revive it- nuthin.

There seems to be a 5-6 wire connector next to the fuel tank that feeds the pump, etc. Does anyone know which wire to probe for voltage to the pump??

Am I on the right track??
Or do I have security codes that I should run once I determine if no voltage (something in the computer stopping the power to pump)
How hard is it to change the pump?? It feels like one can almost access it with the tank in place, but probably length of fuel pick-up would preclude it. Are there any tricks?? (who makes a good manual ? Bentley? chiltons?)

Are fuel pumps available separately? or only with the sending unit??

This is annoying, I guess dead in your own garage is not so bad, (unless you need a tow to a dealer)

Help

 

The fuel pump is multifunctional and contains:

— the electric fuel pump which provides pressurized fuel to the engine.

— the fuel level sensor.

— an inlet filter.

— a check valve which maintains system pressure after the pump is shut off.

— a pressure relief valve for overpressure protection in the event of restricted flow.

To remove the fuel pump, you'll have to drain and drop the tank because of the pump's total length.

 

Before dropping the tank I hope to diagnose the true issue. Need to verify power reaching the fuel pump (don't know which wire to probe!)

 

Power at the PCM Relay & Fuel Pump Relay , Both relays check out OK.

The Black with white stripe is the only wire to get power at the fuel tank connector (with it unplugged) Haynes is worthless for diagrams!!

 

 

Got me???? I don't have a wiring diagram, but I would think more than one of those wires would (should) have power.

 

If it's been sitting for a while the pump will run for a sec... but I don't think it runs every time the ignition is switched on.

You might try patting the accelerator while cranking... the IAC may not be opening.

 

If you're probing for power at the pump end, remember to use an analog VOM to be able to observe the needle swing when you turn the key to run. A digital VOM can't detect and display the voltage quickly enough before the circuit de-energizes. Had this experience on my F150 trying to make sure it was a bad pump before dropping the tank.