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I'm looking at picking up a 90 7.3 with a banks turbo. Guy said it stalled at a light and never started again, but still turns over etc. For the correct price, I'm all over it (or convince me not to). Also, thoughts on price? It has rust - so this is not a good looking truck at the moment.
Obviously, I'm probably not going to fix it in his yard and its about 100 miles away from my residence. What's the best way to get this thing towed home? U haul trailers are not big enough. Not sure if a dolly is a good idea, even if I disconnect the driveshaft. And I'm still left with how to move the thing onto whatever apparatus I use to get it home. Any experience/tips would be very much appreciated.
Post a picture of it. A non-running single cab bricknose 7.3l 2wd SRW with a banks turbo would interest me for $3000 max. Rust, paint, interior damage would lower the price drastically. Super cab or crew cab would be a bonus.
These engines are dumb simple and you can probably get it running in the guys front yard in an hour.
Number 1 cause of a stall is air-intrusion. Cracked o-rings or fuel lines allow air to leak into the fuel system and it kills the engine. Easy to find the cracked fuel line and replace it.
Number 2 cause is a bad Fuel shutoff solinoid (FSS), or power to the FSS. A bad ignition switch or fuse can kill power to the FSS and stop the engine and not allow it to restart. You can turn on the ignition and hear the solenoid click inside the injector pump.
Right-o on the stupid simple. I have spare parts galore and could probably get it running right there. In fact I believe he said it has a broken ignition. I don't know what that specifically means yet. It is a 2wd super cab, has weight reduction and no tailgate. I was thinking of Jumpering the FSS right away and turning it over with the relay.
I'm thinking a rusty, non-running truck cant be more than a $1k truck - am I wrong? No way to see what else might be wrong with it if I cant drive it. And if its a "i know what I got" guy, I'm out of that sale anyhow. This thing has been listed for weeks.
Lift pump may have crapped out. My '88 did that to me just after going through a light. I did have a few warnings ahead of time when the fuel filter light would come on, but I thought it was the filter half clogged... Its something else to check for, and if the check filter light doesn't come on when it starts for the bulb check it might not be the first thought to check. Should be easy to check.
One rarer possibility would be the shaft on the injection pump breaking. That would cause a stall.
While it would be great to get it fixed in his yard, I would try to quietly diagnose it without actually getting it to run, then get it as cheap as you can before actually starting it. If you do a simple fix he may cancel the sale, or jack the price up.
As for getting it home, finding someone with a flatbed trailer is probably your best bet. I don't know the weight limit of uhaul tow dollys but agree they most likely are meant for cars.
Yeah - I don't want to get it running in 15 minutes and all of the sudden I've been a free mechanic and the price jumps way up. And If I don't do that, I could be taking a lot of risk not knowing what all could be wrong with the truck, beyond the not starting. I'm not trying to hose a guy, but I don't mechanic for free and there is a fair amount of risk in a vehicle that doesn't run.
$1000 is top of what I would pay. Like others said, if it cranks get it towed home and get it running so the current owner doesn't change the price on you.
$1000 would be fair for you and the seller, I think. You've got well over $1000 in parts if you decide to part it out.
As for how to get it home, how about renting a trailer? You'd need 18' minimum, I think, along with a winch or at least a come-along. I'd want something with 5,000 pound axles, too.
I agree with the 18FT trailer.
I hauled an 85 6.9 Extra Cab long bed on a 18FT I picked up from a trailer rental place
in Reno. Picked the truck up in Sacramento and hauled back to Nevada. Pulled beautifully,
and didn`t know it was back there the way it handled. Well it was like a boat anchor pulling
up over the steep Mt. Grades.
I now own a nice 22 footer. 10K lb GVW, and installed a Tractor Supply box for the 12K Lb
HF Winch, and battery. Keeps it out of the weather.
Width is more important than length, unless the bed goes above the wheels. Not sure the total length (or how you're measuring your trailers...) but my car hauler has a 16 ft bed and I've gotten a couple parts F250-F350's and my current extended cab F250 a few times. The extended cab may have been a little tight lengthwise, can't remember... but on at least one of the trucks I had to swap for skinnier tires to make it past the wheelwells. Checking the weight rating is smart, I'll have to admit my trailer is undersized at least for the diesel trucks, but more of the trips have been half hour or less so I haven't worried too much about it. One trailer a buddy of mine owns has diamond plate 'ramps' as wheel wells so you can drive up and over them if you have to, and the bed is wide enough for that to work. Just something to think about
Width is more important than length, unless the bed goes above the wheels. Not sure the total length (or how you're measuring your trailers...) but my car hauler has a 16 ft bed and I've gotten a couple parts F250-F350's and my current extended cab F250 a few times. The extended cab may have been a little tight lengthwise, can't remember... but on at least one of the trucks I had to swap for skinnier tires to make it past the wheelwells. Checking the weight rating is smart, I'll have to admit my trailer is undersized at least for the diesel trucks, but more of the trips have been half hour or less so I haven't worried too much about it. One trailer a buddy of mine owns has diamond plate 'ramps' as wheel wells so you can drive up and over them if you have to, and the bed is wide enough for that to work. Just something to think about
Trailer measurement is bed length -- example - my car hauler has a 18' bed (includes 2' dovetail). A standard car hauling trailer should be wide enough for an F250/F350, but that's no guarantee, of course. Wheel/tire size and offset can be an issue as well.
The problem with a shorter trailer (16' and below) is that while it may be physically long enough to fit an F250/F350, you'll end up with the truck too far forward on the trailer, putting too much weight on the tongue. That happened to me with my 18' car hauler with a 2001 or so F350 crew cab 4x4 with a 7.3 PSD. It fit on the trailer (just barely) but the front tires on my Yukon were barely on the ground because the tongue was way overloaded. I unloaded the truck and got a flatbed to haul it. Couldn't risk it with a 2+ hour tow home.
Not only can you have too much weight on the tongue, depending how
the Axles are mounted, you could have too much weight to the rear, and
have the trailer start to sway.
I bought an old home built 16 footer that tilted, that had a sway problem.
Loaned it out to a guy to help him out, and haven`t seen it or him since,
maybe for the best.
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