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Truck had many issues when I acquired it. But persistent has been hesitation or refusal to drive in reverse or manual 1st once warmed up.
Once replaced the wires/coils/cap/rotor/vacuum cannister/all vacuum lines; reverse became much easier.
Originally reverse only worked if i would quickly cut wheels to the stop position and back. Engine would rev up enough to catch itself.
After replacements mentioned above reverse catches itself sometimes and otherwise a blip of the throttle will do it.
I'm aware of slip yoke and filter drop issues but I have doubts either would be as vauge or temperature dependent as mine.
One thought I had is perhaps on partial cool down my tranny fluid flows enough into the pan to allow reverse to work with a suspected bad filter. Once engine runs tranny fluid is pumped out and since pressure is more critical in R and manual 1st the here lies my issues?
Any experience or suggestions are appreciated, especially the obvious things I may have missed.
I'll add reverse always works and did before replacements. If engine dies/or I turn engine off and then quickly once started back up it is shifted into reverse.
I haven't experimented nearly enough with 1st as R but I imagine it's the same.
Originally reverse only worked if i would quickly cut wheels to the stop position and back.
I'm aware of slip yoke and filter drop issues but I have doubts either would be as vauge or temperature dependent as mine.
One thought I had is perhaps on partial cool down my tranny fluid flows enough into the pan to allow reverse to work with a suspected bad filter. Once engine runs tranny fluid is pumped out and since pressure is more critical in R and manual 1st the here lies my issues?
I have no idea what any of that means. What is the “stop position” of the wheels? Replacing the cap, rotor, vacuum canister and vacuum lines wouldn’t have anything to do with the transmission. The computer 100% controls the transmission and not a signal from engine vacuum. Have you tried checking for KOEO codes to see if there are active or stored codes in the computer?
Stop position is wheel lock, i.e turning wheel all the way left or right. The act of turning my wheel all the way one direction for a brief second will cause a slight rpm raise from the extra load at wheel lock. This will level the rpm out in reverse and then it runs fine. The reason I did vacuum lines/tune up is because it'll drive in reverse if I can get rpms up around 1k rpm just once. Once i get the rpms get above idle rpm (850-950) in reverse then the truck will idle and drive just fine in reverse. I have to do that everything it's warmed up if I need to back up. I think this is also why it works if I shut the truck off in N and then restart and quickly shift to R before RPMs drop from startup