When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just bought a 2000 F-150 4.6 V-8 Automatic. When I try to start it, I turn the key and nothing. So, here's what I have done so far -
The battery was old so I replaced it, same problem.
I went online and did the testing on the starter solenoid that is mounted on the firewall, I jumped the lug bolts with an adjustable wrench, the engine started, so I figure a bad starter solenoid. Went to Autozone and got one, installed it, easy enough right? The only thing I noticed was the new part had an extra small bolt at the 9 o'clock position that is unused...
Tried to start it, same problem, turn the key and nothing, but I can still jump the solenoid and get it started.
What am I missing? I have bought a new battery and starter solenoid, and still have the problem...
Any help would be appreciated...
Thanks,
Ed
Your ignition switch or its actuator needs to be looked at
You got the rest of the bells and whistles when you turn the key on?
The anti theft light is not on is it?
Try unlocking the drivers door, then try to start it
Your ignition switch might be no good
Real common to break the ignition switch actuator
Everything "upstream" from the firewall-mounted starter relay. That includes the ignition switch, the DTR switch on the transmission, the in-line fuse, and all of the wiring in between them.
It's not a PATS issue since the engine is reported to run when the starter relay is bypassed. There is no starter interrupt facility with regards to the anti-theft system on this truck.
Your ignition switch or its actuator needs to be looked at
You got the rest of the bells and whistles when you turn the key on?
The anti theft light is not on is it?
Try unlocking the drivers door, then try to start it
Your ignition switch might be no good
Real common to break the ignition switch actuator
I'll do some more testing later today. Right now, the rain is really coming down.
When I turn the key, I get the normal lights and sounds. The theft light comes on like normal, and then goes away. I think I have a probe somewhere, I will check the small wire that it coming from the ignition to make sure I am getting a signal when the key is turned.
As a side note, when I bought the truck, the guy said he had to boost it off, so he got it started without having the replace the battery or the starter solenoid. Could it be that it will start when boosted off, but not when it tries to start itself? I'll test that too later today.
Thanks
Only if it has low voltage
The starter solenoid needs 10.6volts to operate
Lower than that and you just get a click or series of clicks
Your actuator is fine if you get the rest of the instrument lights when you turn the key on
Check that ground cable going from the battery to the engine block and it's frame strap
A voltage drop test is in order if the guy was talking about having to jump it (hence the cable check)
The battery cables can overheat and burn internally, makes them feel hard and thet causes a voltage drop
Have your battery tested and replace the battery cables if you have any of those signs
So, that 2000 should have 2 starter relays. You start checking voltage down the line (thru both positive battery cables)
Verify the condition of the small start wire at the starter
Unlikely. If that was a concern, it wouldn't crank when you bypasses the starter relay.
Since the starter engages when the starter relay is bypassed, there's nothing wrong with the battery cables, the ground cables, or the starter motor. The problem is STRICTLY limited to what I previously said, assuming the replacement starter relay was both goo and was properly connected. There is only one starter relay in this truck, mounted on the firewall.
Start by checking fuse F21 under the dash. If not blown, check to see if it is HOT IN START. If not, the issue is "upstream"to the ignition switch. If it does, go "downstream" through the DTR switch etc.Could be as simple as a sloppy shifter that is causing the DTR switch to be mis-indexed when you think it is in PARK. If this might be the case, try holding the ignition switch in the START position while running the shift lever through the N position and back several times and see if it "hits" in a certain position.
There is a relay on the starter too. That means the truck has two starter solenoids
The diagram shows two wires at the starter. The 2nd little wire is to the solenoid on the starter
It will not start on its own
There is a relay on the starter too. That means the truck has two starter solenoids
No, you're conflating a "relay" with a "solenoid". They are different components although they share some characteristics. The starter relay is on the firewall, the starter solenoid is mounted directly on the starter assembly.
The diagram shows two wires at the starter. The 2nd little wire is to the solenoid on the starter
That is correct. It comes from the starter relay on the firewall.
Wake up SHO
You are confusing yourself again
You argue for the sake of arguing
At least my statements are factually correct. And, no, I'm not at all confused except, perhaps, in engaging you in seemingly Quixotic exchanges.
Follow the Ford service documentation, that way you can also provide correct advice. If you use the terminology that is consistent with that documentation, you can actually help to educate the members who are interested in learning how stuff works and how to fix it when it malfunctions.
Sorry for the delay. I tried hooking up a jump box and boosting off the truck, no luck. So, I think the battery, relay, and starter are ok. I can still start the truck by putting my adjustable wrench across the 2 big lugs on the starter relay (or solenoid) on the firewall. I still need to check the small wire to see if I am getting a signal. Also, I will check the fuse like it was suggested. Thanks to all for your help. I am also fighting a problem on an older f150 that I will post separately. When it rains, it pours, 2 trucks and starting problems with both. Thanks again, will update shortly...Ed
Have you tried it to start it in neutral? Or pull the shift lever all the way to park and tried to start it?
There 3 possibilities.
1. Either the neutral safety switch is bad (very rare)2. The shift cable needs adjustment (common)
3. The #25 torx screw on the shifter tube are loose allowing slop causing possibility #2 (very, very common)
So check those out before going down a rabbit hole.
I tried starting it in neutral, no luck. The shifter doesn't appear loose, but I will check it. Thanks
Hold the ignition switch in START, foot on the brake, and run the shift lever through its range. If it's misaligned or loose, the starter circuit will "hit" when things are just right.
I don't see any evidence that you've done anything or used the diagram I posted in #6.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
