Just Wanting To Learn
#16
02-15-2023, 06:43 AM
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#17
02-15-2023, 08:41 AM
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#18
02-15-2023, 09:52 AM
#19
02-15-2023, 09:52 AM
#20
02-15-2023, 09:59 AM
Yeah I don’t understand the extreme hype with welds either. There’s only a few that look good in my opinion.
Also, when I bought my current sidewinders, I asked the dude if they had any cracks and he said “nope they’re good.” Took about 20 miles of driving on them before I found a crack….
Never heard of any other wheels that are known to crack….other than welds
#21
02-16-2023, 08:16 AM
Save your truck and your money
Nice truck; it's worth preserving. I thought I'd share a bit of my 30+ years of OBS trucks experience to perhaps sway your ambitions to modify a great truck.
Currently restoring my 97 F350 XLT diesel (83K miles) to factory spec with all OEM parts, using the tires specified on the driver's door label. Why factory spec? The truck is in the most most stable state when it rolls out of the factory door. Putting fancy suspension parts, bosting engine performance, etc. might look and sound cool, but it degrades your road handling, stopping distances and stresses the truck's structural components and drive train, not to mention your wallet.
The first thing I'd do to that truck is clean it! Use a low pressure washer to clean out sand and debris that accumulates on the chassis, around the heat shields attached to the bottom of the bed, the skid plates, fuel tanks, and between the frame and the bed. Clean it thoroughly, inspect it, then wash it again cleaning what you missed the first time.,
Once clean, carefully examine the undercarriage and frame. Examine the frame for rot and rust; the radiator support for rot and rust (particularly vulnerable); the spring bushings and hangers, front and rear (especially if the truck plowed snow); the rear fuel tank under the skid plates (warning! two skid plates hold the tank in place, empty the tank to remove one skid plate, examine for rust and leaks, replace, then do the other side); rear fenders behind the metal splash guard on both sides (use a bore scope to look directly between the fender and splash plate for rust and corrosion); inspect the tailgate bottom fold-seam for rust and rot; check the emergency brake cable for abrasion (particularly against the left rear shock); etc. Also, remove the interior trim enough to access the door column access holes. Take your time and look with a bore scope; repair and protect as needed.
After you are satisfied, or exhausted from the work it takes, whichever comes first, undercoat the truck. I use Woolwax rather than old motor oil because it doesn't smell and doesn't drip. Buy this kit after you find a promo code: https://www.kellsportproducts.com/Woolwax-Auto-Truck-Undercoating-kit-2-Two-Gallon-Kit-with-PRO-Gun-and-extension-wands_p_46.html . You'll need a small compressor. Make sure you spray inside the tailgate, between the rear fenders and splash shields, the inner panel areas of the front and rear fenders, and the lower door columns and rocker panels.
Bottom line: save your money for repairs and upkeep. Best spent dollars are preserving what you have, replacing worn parts and keeping the paint protected, rather than trying to be cool with suspension mods that will stress the truck and your wallet. A well preserved truck is like putting money in the bank. A modified truck is an extravagance with little hope of recovering money spent.
Good luck!
Currently restoring my 97 F350 XLT diesel (83K miles) to factory spec with all OEM parts, using the tires specified on the driver's door label. Why factory spec? The truck is in the most most stable state when it rolls out of the factory door. Putting fancy suspension parts, bosting engine performance, etc. might look and sound cool, but it degrades your road handling, stopping distances and stresses the truck's structural components and drive train, not to mention your wallet.
The first thing I'd do to that truck is clean it! Use a low pressure washer to clean out sand and debris that accumulates on the chassis, around the heat shields attached to the bottom of the bed, the skid plates, fuel tanks, and between the frame and the bed. Clean it thoroughly, inspect it, then wash it again cleaning what you missed the first time.,
Once clean, carefully examine the undercarriage and frame. Examine the frame for rot and rust; the radiator support for rot and rust (particularly vulnerable); the spring bushings and hangers, front and rear (especially if the truck plowed snow); the rear fuel tank under the skid plates (warning! two skid plates hold the tank in place, empty the tank to remove one skid plate, examine for rust and leaks, replace, then do the other side); rear fenders behind the metal splash guard on both sides (use a bore scope to look directly between the fender and splash plate for rust and corrosion); inspect the tailgate bottom fold-seam for rust and rot; check the emergency brake cable for abrasion (particularly against the left rear shock); etc. Also, remove the interior trim enough to access the door column access holes. Take your time and look with a bore scope; repair and protect as needed.
After you are satisfied, or exhausted from the work it takes, whichever comes first, undercoat the truck. I use Woolwax rather than old motor oil because it doesn't smell and doesn't drip. Buy this kit after you find a promo code: https://www.kellsportproducts.com/Woolwax-Auto-Truck-Undercoating-kit-2-Two-Gallon-Kit-with-PRO-Gun-and-extension-wands_p_46.html . You'll need a small compressor. Make sure you spray inside the tailgate, between the rear fenders and splash shields, the inner panel areas of the front and rear fenders, and the lower door columns and rocker panels.
Bottom line: save your money for repairs and upkeep. Best spent dollars are preserving what you have, replacing worn parts and keeping the paint protected, rather than trying to be cool with suspension mods that will stress the truck and your wallet. A well preserved truck is like putting money in the bank. A modified truck is an extravagance with little hope of recovering money spent.
Good luck!
The following 2 users liked this post by Yeoman:
#22
02-16-2023, 01:28 PM
Mountain Pass
Hey man. Wish I had my truck when I was 16, also glad I didnt because I also had no money. $40k later and shes still not perfect. Do it bit by bit but be sure that you are at Stage 0 before you start spending money on high HP, expensive upgrades. Your truck is no good if oyu have 500hp, 900 lbft of torque and your wheel bearings are shot, or you have bad ball joints, leaking oil etc.
Get yourself this. It is the CD version of the Ford FACTORY service manual. It has everything you want to know and will give you all the torque specs and instructions that you need to learn about your truck. Hell I just use it to read before bed to know everything I can about this guy. GET the manual, spend the money and do things right the first time. If you start pushing real power make sure you do head studs, rods, springs etc and dont go to crazy or you will severely limit the life of your engine. Dont be the 25 year old who still lives with his parents but has a cool truck. Have fun with it!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/14081508588...Cclp%3A2047675
Get yourself this. It is the CD version of the Ford FACTORY service manual. It has everything you want to know and will give you all the torque specs and instructions that you need to learn about your truck. Hell I just use it to read before bed to know everything I can about this guy. GET the manual, spend the money and do things right the first time. If you start pushing real power make sure you do head studs, rods, springs etc and dont go to crazy or you will severely limit the life of your engine. Dont be the 25 year old who still lives with his parents but has a cool truck. Have fun with it!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/14081508588...Cclp%3A2047675
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#23
02-16-2023, 01:40 PM
More Turbo
Nice truck; it's worth preserving. I thought I'd share a bit of my 30+ years of OBS trucks experience to perhaps sway your ambitions to modify a great truck.
Currently restoring my 97 F350 XLT diesel (83K miles) to factory spec with all OEM parts, using the tires specified on the driver's door label. Why factory spec? The truck is in the most most stable state when it rolls out of the factory door. Putting fancy suspension parts, bosting engine performance, etc. might look and sound cool, but it degrades your road handling, stopping distances and stresses the truck's structural components and drive train, not to mention your wallet.
The first thing I'd do to that truck is clean it! Use a low pressure washer to clean out sand and debris that accumulates on the chassis, around the heat shields attached to the bottom of the bed, the skid plates, fuel tanks, and between the frame and the bed. Clean it thoroughly, inspect it, then wash it again cleaning what you missed the first time.,
Once clean, carefully examine the undercarriage and frame. Examine the frame for rot and rust; the radiator support for rot and rust (particularly vulnerable); the spring bushings and hangers, front and rear (especially if the truck plowed snow); the rear fuel tank under the skid plates (warning! two skid plates hold the tank in place, empty the tank to remove one skid plate, examine for rust and leaks, replace, then do the other side); rear fenders behind the metal splash guard on both sides (use a bore scope to look directly between the fender and splash plate for rust and corrosion); inspect the tailgate bottom fold-seam for rust and rot; check the emergency brake cable for abrasion (particularly against the left rear shock); etc. Also, remove the interior trim enough to access the door column access holes. Take your time and look with a bore scope; repair and protect as needed.
After you are satisfied, or exhausted from the work it takes, whichever comes first, undercoat the truck. I use Woolwax rather than old motor oil because it doesn't smell and doesn't drip. Buy this kit after you find a promo code: https://www.kellsportproducts.com/Woolwax-Auto-Truck-Undercoating-kit-2-Two-Gallon-Kit-with-PRO-Gun-and-extension-wands_p_46.html . You'll need a small compressor. Make sure you spray inside the tailgate, between the rear fenders and splash shields, the inner panel areas of the front and rear fenders, and the lower door columns and rocker panels.
Bottom line: save your money for repairs and upkeep. Best spent dollars are preserving what you have, replacing worn parts and keeping the paint protected, rather than trying to be cool with suspension mods that will stress the truck and your wallet. A well preserved truck is like putting money in the bank. A modified truck is an extravagance with little hope of recovering money spent.
Good luck!
Currently restoring my 97 F350 XLT diesel (83K miles) to factory spec with all OEM parts, using the tires specified on the driver's door label. Why factory spec? The truck is in the most most stable state when it rolls out of the factory door. Putting fancy suspension parts, bosting engine performance, etc. might look and sound cool, but it degrades your road handling, stopping distances and stresses the truck's structural components and drive train, not to mention your wallet.
The first thing I'd do to that truck is clean it! Use a low pressure washer to clean out sand and debris that accumulates on the chassis, around the heat shields attached to the bottom of the bed, the skid plates, fuel tanks, and between the frame and the bed. Clean it thoroughly, inspect it, then wash it again cleaning what you missed the first time.,
Once clean, carefully examine the undercarriage and frame. Examine the frame for rot and rust; the radiator support for rot and rust (particularly vulnerable); the spring bushings and hangers, front and rear (especially if the truck plowed snow); the rear fuel tank under the skid plates (warning! two skid plates hold the tank in place, empty the tank to remove one skid plate, examine for rust and leaks, replace, then do the other side); rear fenders behind the metal splash guard on both sides (use a bore scope to look directly between the fender and splash plate for rust and corrosion); inspect the tailgate bottom fold-seam for rust and rot; check the emergency brake cable for abrasion (particularly against the left rear shock); etc. Also, remove the interior trim enough to access the door column access holes. Take your time and look with a bore scope; repair and protect as needed.
After you are satisfied, or exhausted from the work it takes, whichever comes first, undercoat the truck. I use Woolwax rather than old motor oil because it doesn't smell and doesn't drip. Buy this kit after you find a promo code: https://www.kellsportproducts.com/Woolwax-Auto-Truck-Undercoating-kit-2-Two-Gallon-Kit-with-PRO-Gun-and-extension-wands_p_46.html . You'll need a small compressor. Make sure you spray inside the tailgate, between the rear fenders and splash shields, the inner panel areas of the front and rear fenders, and the lower door columns and rocker panels.
Bottom line: save your money for repairs and upkeep. Best spent dollars are preserving what you have, replacing worn parts and keeping the paint protected, rather than trying to be cool with suspension mods that will stress the truck and your wallet. A well preserved truck is like putting money in the bank. A modified truck is an extravagance with little hope of recovering money spent.
Good luck!
The following users liked this post:
#24
02-16-2023, 10:50 PM
Nice truck; it's worth preserving. I thought I'd share a bit of my 30+ years of OBS trucks experience to perhaps sway your ambitions to modify a great truck.
Currently restoring my 97 F350 XLT diesel (83K miles) to factory spec with all OEM parts, using the tires specified on the driver's door label. Why factory spec? The truck is in the most most stable state when it rolls out of the factory door. Putting fancy suspension parts, bosting engine performance, etc. might look and sound cool, but it degrades your road handling, stopping distances and stresses the truck's structural components and drive train, not to mention your wallet.
The first thing I'd do to that truck is clean it! Use a low pressure washer to clean out sand and debris that accumulates on the chassis, around the heat shields attached to the bottom of the bed, the skid plates, fuel tanks, and between the frame and the bed. Clean it thoroughly, inspect it, then wash it again cleaning what you missed the first time.,
Once clean, carefully examine the undercarriage and frame. Examine the frame for rot and rust; the radiator support for rot and rust (particularly vulnerable); the spring bushings and hangers, front and rear (especially if the truck plowed snow); the rear fuel tank under the skid plates (warning! two skid plates hold the tank in place, empty the tank to remove one skid plate, examine for rust and leaks, replace, then do the other side); rear fenders behind the metal splash guard on both sides (use a bore scope to look directly between the fender and splash plate for rust and corrosion); inspect the tailgate bottom fold-seam for rust and rot; check the emergency brake cable for abrasion (particularly against the left rear shock); etc. Also, remove the interior trim enough to access the door column access holes. Take your time and look with a bore scope; repair and protect as needed.
After you are satisfied, or exhausted from the work it takes, whichever comes first, undercoat the truck. I use Woolwax rather than old motor oil because it doesn't smell and doesn't drip. Buy this kit after you find a promo code: https://www.kellsportproducts.com/Woolwax-Auto-Truck-Undercoating-kit-2-Two-Gallon-Kit-with-PRO-Gun-and-extension-wands_p_46.html . You'll need a small compressor. Make sure you spray inside the tailgate, between the rear fenders and splash shields, the inner panel areas of the front and rear fenders, and the lower door columns and rocker panels.
Bottom line: save your money for repairs and upkeep. Best spent dollars are preserving what you have, replacing worn parts and keeping the paint protected, rather than trying to be cool with suspension mods that will stress the truck and your wallet. A well preserved truck is like putting money in the bank. A modified truck is an extravagance with little hope of recovering money spent.
Good luck!
Currently restoring my 97 F350 XLT diesel (83K miles) to factory spec with all OEM parts, using the tires specified on the driver's door label. Why factory spec? The truck is in the most most stable state when it rolls out of the factory door. Putting fancy suspension parts, bosting engine performance, etc. might look and sound cool, but it degrades your road handling, stopping distances and stresses the truck's structural components and drive train, not to mention your wallet.
The first thing I'd do to that truck is clean it! Use a low pressure washer to clean out sand and debris that accumulates on the chassis, around the heat shields attached to the bottom of the bed, the skid plates, fuel tanks, and between the frame and the bed. Clean it thoroughly, inspect it, then wash it again cleaning what you missed the first time.,
Once clean, carefully examine the undercarriage and frame. Examine the frame for rot and rust; the radiator support for rot and rust (particularly vulnerable); the spring bushings and hangers, front and rear (especially if the truck plowed snow); the rear fuel tank under the skid plates (warning! two skid plates hold the tank in place, empty the tank to remove one skid plate, examine for rust and leaks, replace, then do the other side); rear fenders behind the metal splash guard on both sides (use a bore scope to look directly between the fender and splash plate for rust and corrosion); inspect the tailgate bottom fold-seam for rust and rot; check the emergency brake cable for abrasion (particularly against the left rear shock); etc. Also, remove the interior trim enough to access the door column access holes. Take your time and look with a bore scope; repair and protect as needed.
After you are satisfied, or exhausted from the work it takes, whichever comes first, undercoat the truck. I use Woolwax rather than old motor oil because it doesn't smell and doesn't drip. Buy this kit after you find a promo code: https://www.kellsportproducts.com/Woolwax-Auto-Truck-Undercoating-kit-2-Two-Gallon-Kit-with-PRO-Gun-and-extension-wands_p_46.html . You'll need a small compressor. Make sure you spray inside the tailgate, between the rear fenders and splash shields, the inner panel areas of the front and rear fenders, and the lower door columns and rocker panels.
Bottom line: save your money for repairs and upkeep. Best spent dollars are preserving what you have, replacing worn parts and keeping the paint protected, rather than trying to be cool with suspension mods that will stress the truck and your wallet. A well preserved truck is like putting money in the bank. A modified truck is an extravagance with little hope of recovering money spent.
Good luck!
#25
02-16-2023, 10:53 PM
Hey man. Wish I had my truck when I was 16, also glad I didnt because I also had no money. $40k later and shes still not perfect. Do it bit by bit but be sure that you are at Stage 0 before you start spending money on high HP, expensive upgrades. Your truck is no good if oyu have 500hp, 900 lbft of torque and your wheel bearings are shot, or you have bad ball joints, leaking oil etc.
Get yourself this. It is the CD version of the Ford FACTORY service manual. It has everything you want to know and will give you all the torque specs and instructions that you need to learn about your truck. Hell I just use it to read before bed to know everything I can about this guy. GET the manual, spend the money and do things right the first time. If you start pushing real power make sure you do head studs, rods, springs etc and dont go to crazy or you will severely limit the life of your engine. Dont be the 25 year old who still lives with his parents but has a cool truck. Have fun with it!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/14081508588...Cclp%3A2047675
Get yourself this. It is the CD version of the Ford FACTORY service manual. It has everything you want to know and will give you all the torque specs and instructions that you need to learn about your truck. Hell I just use it to read before bed to know everything I can about this guy. GET the manual, spend the money and do things right the first time. If you start pushing real power make sure you do head studs, rods, springs etc and dont go to crazy or you will severely limit the life of your engine. Dont be the 25 year old who still lives with his parents but has a cool truck. Have fun with it!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/14081508588...Cclp%3A2047675
#26
02-17-2023, 08:22 AM
Lead Driver
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#27
02-17-2023, 09:49 AM
BBS' can and do crack. Owned a set that were cracked.
Start with basic stuff. Uppipes. Fuel return lines. Be rid of the OBOD. HD glow relay. Downpipe. High side PS hose. Quality air intake. Husky floor mats
Not sure why lopped off exhaust. Just the downpipe is restrictive on a stocker.
Start with basic stuff. Uppipes. Fuel return lines. Be rid of the OBOD. HD glow relay. Downpipe. High side PS hose. Quality air intake. Husky floor mats
Not sure why lopped off exhaust. Just the downpipe is restrictive on a stocker.
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#28
02-17-2023, 03:13 PM
Cargo Master
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