I had a set of super singles for my super duty....sold them before I knew how valuable they were.
All good though, I found a set of sidewinders that I'm running now.

To the OP, that's a solid looking truck

 

I had one break for no reason at 70MPH back in 2001.

Warranty? Ha ha! To hell with that company and their overhyped junk.

 

I will thanks.

 

Thank you that means a lot to me.

 

Yeah I don’t understand the extreme hype with welds either. There’s only a few that look good in my opinion.

Also, when I bought my current sidewinders, I asked the dude if they had any cracks and he said “nope they’re good.” Took about 20 miles of driving on them before I found a crack….

Never heard of any other wheels that are known to crack….other than welds

 

Nice truck; it's worth preserving. I thought I'd share a bit of my 30+ years of OBS trucks experience to perhaps sway your ambitions to modify a great truck.

Currently restoring my 97 F350 XLT diesel (83K miles) to factory spec with all OEM parts, using the tires specified on the driver's door label. Why factory spec? The truck is in the most most stable state when it rolls out of the factory door. Putting fancy suspension parts, bosting engine performance, etc. might look and sound cool, but it degrades your road handling, stopping distances and stresses the truck's structural components and drive train, not to mention your wallet.

The first thing I'd do to that truck is clean it! Use a low pressure washer to clean out sand and debris that accumulates on the chassis, around the heat shields attached to the bottom of the bed, the skid plates, fuel tanks, and between the frame and the bed. Clean it thoroughly, inspect it, then wash it again cleaning what you missed the first time.,

Once clean, carefully examine the undercarriage and frame. Examine the frame for rot and rust; the radiator support for rot and rust (particularly vulnerable); the spring bushings and hangers, front and rear (especially if the truck plowed snow); the rear fuel tank under the skid plates (warning! two skid plates hold the tank in place, empty the tank to remove one skid plate, examine for rust and leaks, replace, then do the other side); rear fenders behind the metal splash guard on both sides (use a bore scope to look directly between the fender and splash plate for rust and corrosion); inspect the tailgate bottom fold-seam for rust and rot; check the emergency brake cable for abrasion (particularly against the left rear shock); etc. Also, remove the interior trim enough to access the door column access holes. Take your time and look with a bore scope; repair and protect as needed.

After you are satisfied, or exhausted from the work it takes, whichever comes first, undercoat the truck. I use Woolwax rather than old motor oil because it doesn't smell and doesn't drip. Buy this kit after you find a promo code: https://www.kellsportproducts.com/Woolwax-Auto-Truck-Undercoating-kit-2-Two-Gallon-Kit-with-PRO-Gun-and-extension-wands_p_46.html . You'll need a small compressor. Make sure you spray inside the tailgate, between the rear fenders and splash shields, the inner panel areas of the front and rear fenders, and the lower door columns and rocker panels.

Bottom line: save your money for repairs and upkeep. Best spent dollars are preserving what you have, replacing worn parts and keeping the paint protected, rather than trying to be cool with suspension mods that will stress the truck and your wallet. A well preserved truck is like putting money in the bank. A modified truck is an extravagance with little hope of recovering money spent.

Good luck!

 

Hey man. Wish I had my truck when I was 16, also glad I didnt because I also had no money. $40k later and shes still not perfect. Do it bit by bit but be sure that you are at Stage 0 before you start spending money on high HP, expensive upgrades. Your truck is no good if oyu have 500hp, 900 lbft of torque and your wheel bearings are shot, or you have bad ball joints, leaking oil etc.

Get yourself this. It is the CD version of the Ford FACTORY service manual. It has everything you want to know and will give you all the torque specs and instructions that you need to learn about your truck. Hell I just use it to read before bed to know everything I can about this guy. GET the manual, spend the money and do things right the first time. If you start pushing real power make sure you do head studs, rods, springs etc and dont go to crazy or you will severely limit the life of your engine. Dont be the 25 year old who still lives with his parents but has a cool truck. Have fun with it!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/14081508588...Cclp%3A2047675

 

I feel close to the same way as you. My goal is to get the most out of my truck performance wise without tuning. I think I have pretty much reached that goal and now I'm going to focus on restoring the truck slowly unfortunately because cash flow is limited but surely. My thought process is without tuning you have a place to stop and work on other things other than horsepower. Im sure if I had FU money I would think totally different and have dual hpops and turbos the size of my tires, but its not the case. I do think that some mods like efuel, higher volume HPOP, downpipes, uppies are all worthwhile mods for ease of wrenching, longevity and performance without the cost of stressing your engine and some may actually help extend engine/injector life. Cant think of much better for a HEUI system than gobs of oil and fuel that is well filtered and always there.

 

Thank you for the advice I have gone through the truck top and bottom (thankfully a California truck). The truck is very important to me because it was my uncles before he passed. He bought the truck brand new so it’s been in my family it’s entire life.

 

Thank you for the advice. My plan is to become a welder so hopefully money won’t be an issue. I will definitely be getting a manual.

 

BBS' can and do crack. Owned a set that were cracked.

Start with basic stuff. Uppipes. Fuel return lines. Be rid of the OBOD. HD glow relay. Downpipe. High side PS hose. Quality air intake. Husky floor mats

Not sure why lopped off exhaust. Just the downpipe is restrictive on a stocker.

 

Its a XLT black interior with a rubber floor. I have a 4in straight pipe kit ordered. I cut off the exhaust because im a high schooler that likes the sound of turbos.

 

I'm 40 this year and still like the sound of turbos!

 

I pray to god that it will never get old.