Drive shaft angles
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 13
From: Saskatchewan
Drive shaft angles
Could anybody tell me what the driveshaft angles should be on my 05 F350? Since I’ve installed a 6” lift I get a pretty good vibration starting at about 50 and increases up to 75 mph. I have about 7 degrees difference between the yoke right by the carrier bearing and the yoke on the diff. I did try some homemade shims under the carrier bearing and it seemed to make it worse. I feel like I need shims to rotate the diff to point the pinion down more but thought I should ask before I do anymore. Thanks!
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 475
What body/bed style? Probably just need to get the carrier set correctly, there's gonna be different drop heights based on the wheelbase, to get all the driveshaft angle right. Here's a good link with all the info you should need.
https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTr...line-101.shtml
2pc driveshaft section
https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTr....shtml#2-Piece
https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTr...line-101.shtml
2pc driveshaft section
https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTr....shtml#2-Piece
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 896
Likes: 255
From: San Diego, CA
From the factory, the pinion should be rotated pointed up 5 degrees to match the forward shaft (and transfer case) at 5 degrees down.
When you drop the center support bearing, you then increase the working angle of that front driveshaft, say to 7deg. In order to match that 7deg down, you'll want to rotate the pinion up by 2deg.
When you drop the center support bearing, you then increase the working angle of that front driveshaft, say to 7deg. In order to match that 7deg down, you'll want to rotate the pinion up by 2deg.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 13
From: Saskatchewan
I’ve shimmed the Center support up to 1 1/2” in 1/4” increments with no change. I’ve also tried pointing the pinion angle up and down with no help. At this point I’m looking into a one piece driveshaft
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 475
According to one of your other post you have a CCSB, which is a 156" wheelbase, that's pretty much the upper limit for a single shaft and it's gonna be huge. Last time I priced one out, 5" dia alum for a 155" wb, it was almost $1000 and that was 5 years ago. The shop I went to recommended I stay with the 2pc steel because the 2pc is a more stable setup under a load and at high speed, plus it was half the cost.
From what bajaphile says, it sounds like you need to get your intermediate shaft in line with the t-case by adjusting the carrier, then adjust the pinion angle to match. Does the carrier have alot of left/right slop? Is the tranny centered or can it shift left or right? If it's out of alignment that way it adds a little more bind in the joints.
I don't think it should be an issue at that lift height and WB, but you may want to closely inspect the yolks and u joints to see if there's any binding because of the angles. Sometimes you can grind a little clearance inside them or you might need to go to high angle joints.
From what bajaphile says, it sounds like you need to get your intermediate shaft in line with the t-case by adjusting the carrier, then adjust the pinion angle to match. Does the carrier have alot of left/right slop? Is the tranny centered or can it shift left or right? If it's out of alignment that way it adds a little more bind in the joints.
I don't think it should be an issue at that lift height and WB, but you may want to closely inspect the yolks and u joints to see if there's any binding because of the angles. Sometimes you can grind a little clearance inside them or you might need to go to high angle joints.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 13
From: Saskatchewan
According to one of your other post you have a CCSB, which is a 156" wheelbase, that's pretty much the upper limit for a single shaft and it's gonna be huge. Last time I priced one out, 5" dia alum for a 155" wb, it was almost $1000 and that was 5 years ago. The shop I went to recommended I stay with the 2pc steel because the 2pc is a more stable setup under a load and at high speed, plus it was half the cost.
From what bajaphile says, it sounds like you need to get your intermediate shaft in line with the t-case by adjusting the carrier, then adjust the pinion angle to match. Does the carrier have alot of left/right slop? Is the tranny centered or can it shift left or right? If it's out of alignment that way it adds a little more bind in the joints.
I don't think it should be an issue at that lift height and WB, but you may want to closely inspect the yolks and u joints to see if there's any binding because of the angles. Sometimes you can grind a little clearance inside them or you might need to go to high angle joints.
From what bajaphile says, it sounds like you need to get your intermediate shaft in line with the t-case by adjusting the carrier, then adjust the pinion angle to match. Does the carrier have alot of left/right slop? Is the tranny centered or can it shift left or right? If it's out of alignment that way it adds a little more bind in the joints.
I don't think it should be an issue at that lift height and WB, but you may want to closely inspect the yolks and u joints to see if there's any binding because of the angles. Sometimes you can grind a little clearance inside them or you might need to go to high angle joints.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
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Well.....as you can see in your diagram in Post #2 the pinion and yoke need to be parallel, although truthfully the pinion can be down 1-2 degrees because it torques up under throttle.
Rotate the d/s 90 degrees from shown in the diagram. Measure from the cap in the pinion yoke and the cap in the d/s yoke (above the words "middle working angle"). I put a deep socket on the cap to "extend" it then put the angle finder on the socket. Get those angles to match (but again, I'd actually have the pinion 1-2 degrees lower) and you shouldn't have any unusual vibes
Rotate the d/s 90 degrees from shown in the diagram. Measure from the cap in the pinion yoke and the cap in the d/s yoke (above the words "middle working angle"). I put a deep socket on the cap to "extend" it then put the angle finder on the socket. Get those angles to match (but again, I'd actually have the pinion 1-2 degrees lower) and you shouldn't have any unusual vibes
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Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 13
From: Saskatchewan
I feel like I should finish off this thread. Took it to a shop and the driveshaft angles were all good. Took the driveshaft to a machine shop and it was way out of balance. They had to cut it apart and balance it. Smooth as can be now. Thanks for all the help everybody
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