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Hey Guys, I just bought a 1966 F-100 that went through a bit of a rough patch. It had a fire in the engine compartment and fried the wiring. The wiring from the fuse box back to the taillights is good. The wiring from the fuse box forward has some issues. I am not looking to do a frame off rebuild, just want to get it going, but safety first. I am not experienced but don't mind taking my time, asking questions and doing it correctly.
I found wiring harnesses on Amazon around a $120 vs Wiring found on Classic Industries for $700. Which is the better way to go? Can I use the same fuse box instead of the one in the package.
If people go with custom wiring they usually don't use the factory fuse block. If they are keeping it original or don't want to rewire it all then they usually just buy the replacement harnesses which are premade like the originals and would normally be plug-n-play.
They sell basically all the wire harnesses except for the underdash. If all you need is the engine harness there is no need for a complete rewire kit. also check with LMC, CJ Pony parts, Dennis Carpenter, Ecklers etc.
If people go with custom wiring they usually don't use the factory fuse block. If they are keeping it original or don't want to rewire it all then they usually just buy the replacement harnesses which are premade like the originals and would normally be plug-n-play.
QUOTE=TA455HO;20724862]If people go with custom wiring they usually don't use the factory fuse block. If they are keeping it original or don't want to rewire it all then they usually just buy the replacement harnesses which are premade like the originals and would normally be plug-n-play.
The dash to headlight harness would include the turn signal wiring for the front. They also make/sell a rear light harness. However, if you don't have turn signals take a look at your turn signal switch-a common problem.
The dash to headlight harness would include the turn signal wiring for the front. They also make/sell a rear light harness. However, if you don't have turn signals take a look at your turn signal switch-a common problem.
If people go with custom wiring they usually don't use the factory fuse block. If they are keeping it original or don't want to rewire it all then they usually just buy the replacement harnesses which are premade like the originals and would normally be plug-n-play.
I purchased the harnesses for the engine compartment. They're working out great. What do you recommend for the cab. I have another instrument panel but need the wiring for that and the fuse box.
Even though their web site is still chugging along I don't think they are actually "in business" any longer. Phone number has been disconnected for at least a couple of years or more. The owner Ed Pease passed away and while I believe his son had good intentions of keeping the business going it would appear that didn't happen. Shame since they had an injection molding machine to do the ends of the wire harnesses and had molds for the firewall bulkhead connectors as well as the other styles.
Even though their web site is still chugging along I don't think they are actually "in business" any longer. Phone number has been disconnected for at least a couple of years or more. The owner Ed Pease passed away and while I believe his son had good intentions of keeping the business going it would appear that didn't happen. Shame since they had an injection molding machine to do the ends of the wire harnesses and had molds for the firewall bulkhead connectors as well as the other styles.
Any idea what a good alternative would be? I’ll need to take the top of the dash off to make it easier to work on the wiring.
When you first posted it sounded like your inside wiring was fine, but it appears it was cooked as well. Since used harnesses can have aged brittle wiring, they aren't always the safest bet. Might be best to do a hybrid system using some of the reproduction harnesses like you have purchased where possible and then use an aftermarket fuse block and inside wiring. I was not too sure what you meant by taking the top of the dash off. Everything from one side to the other inside of the windshield is welded in and makes up a good part of the structural strength of the firewall area. Most everyone I know of works on the wiring through the instrument panel hole and from underneath the dash. Cutting the dash to work on the wiring sounds like opening a can of worms. Plus then you'd have to weld back in whatever you cut out I'd suppose - maybe not? But welding in a piece with the wiring already installed - just make sure to protect the wiring so any weld spatter or slag doesn't hit it.
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