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With the switch removed, I connected the white/yellow wire to ground. I turned the key to run and the gauge just kept rising. Then I tried putting the switch back on and out the key to run and the gauge when to empty.
Well, I can't explain why it doesn't go to Empty when you short it, unless you're not connecting it to a good ground. But at this point, I think it's time to drain 'one' of your tanks and drop it to remove the fuel sender and see what's going on with it. I suggest dropping the mid tank because it's easier. Make sure you disconnect the fuel lines on top before dropping it
I am really bad at this because what you said about maybe grounding it wrong was right. I took a really long wire so that I could ground it to a spot that I knew for sure was right and sure enough, it works. Now I believe that the issues are broken fuel selection valve and sending units. You said to drop the front tank, but I would like to ask if I could take off the bed instead?
You dont have a fuel selector valve. You have a fuel selector switch. The switch just turns on the pump you command. There is no physical, rotating valve in this system. Youre switch is fine, but you can test that out too with your multimeter by using the wiring diagram.
If you put the switch in the "Front tank position":
Pin 1 and pin 2 should have continuity
Pin 4 and pin 5 should have continuity
If you put the switch in the "Rear tank position";
Pin 2 and pin 3 should have continuity
Pin 5 and pin 6 should have continuity
Since you have a good ground now, You should remove the swtich and double check the ohms on the DarkBrown/Yellow, and Yellow/light blue wires.
Yes, you can definitely take the bed off to get to the tanks, if you have equipment to do it. A lot of the time, the bolts are rusted to the point where they cant be removed.
Alright, I’m back. I got the bed off and have very interesting discoveries. I will add some pictures. Tell me what you think and what is the next step. I’m excited to get this solved so I can go to my transmission stuff.
I also double checked the resistance from the light blue/yellow wire and got 41 ohms and on the dark blue to ground I got 24 ohms. Both tanks should be full.
The broken hose is your EVAP hose. It sends vapors to your charcoal canaster to be burnt later. You should replace it.
Before you get started on the fuel pump, powerwasher or scrub the top of your fuel tanks to get the 30 years of dirt off them. You dont want that dirt in your gas tank.
Then you need a wooden dowel, and a small hammer. Use them to tap the steel ring with the tabs counterclockwise to unlock the retainer ring. Theres a rubber o-ring below it that you'll re-use.
Alright. I have gotten them all cleaned up and ready, and I know how to pull the thing out so what’s the next step? Take them out and then what? I assume I need to look at them and tried to check things.
Take it out, leave it electrically connected and plumbed. Take a good look at it and see if its stuck or rusted. Or maybe the float has broken off. Then turn your ignition on and push the float to the top of the stroke. Check your gas gauge to see if the gas gauge responds to the float position. Do this for both gas tanks.
I got the rear one out and fussed with it, all seems well, then I tested pushing up the float and checking the gauge and it works! I tried the same with the front tank, I was not able to get it all the way out but still was able to test the float on that and it works too. But when I put them back in it still has the same issue. I guess the floats are not floating. Can I fix that or should I just go the the salvage yard and pull two pumps?
Yep. For some reason, your floats are not floating. You can try to save them but it may be faster and easier to just buy 2 new fuel delivery modules off rock auto and drop them in your tank. I know you said one of your pumps was toast, so you should definitely change that one out with a fuel delivery module while you have the chance.
