When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys! I'm putting gear timing in my 400 and I can't find much info on the install, Do I need to do anything to the timing cover to keep the dog bone in place? I have heard people talking about on small block chevys having to dimple to timing cover or put a button on it to keep it in place. Any help would be great!!
No, there is no need for a camshaft button on a 351M / 400. The camshaft retainer plate takes care of the end play.
What do you mean by "dog bone"? The only dog bones I know of, are lifter dog bones, for roller lifters. And the 400 doesn't have provisions for dog bones.
No, there is no need for a camshaft button on a 351M / 400. The camshaft retainer plate takes care of the end play.
What do you mean by "dog bone"? The only dog bones I know of, are lifter dog bones, for roller lifters. And the 400 doesn't have provisions for dog bones.
It's a dog bone looking thing that carries two small intermediate gears between the large cam gear and small crank gear, it keeps them rotating the same direction, it just floats I think.
Ah, so that's what you meant by gear timing. It's called a gear drive or timing gear drive. It replaces cogs and chains known as a timing set. I do believe the idler gears float, but since it's an aftermarket replacement part any special instructions should have come with the kit.
A cam buttons go on the center of the cam gear to stop the cam from being pushed forward
The way those gears mesh, essentially locking the idler bar in place, the assy. can't come out once it's installed.
You're not actually installing a gear drive timing set, are you? If so, then yes it requires something to regulate the floating gear carrier's fore & aft movement. It does float, and it cannot fall off the side,....until it fails. And when it fails, it's catastrophic. They're extremely noisy. They wear quickly, and introduce a lot of atomized metal into the oil as they wear. That in turn, wears every moving part & it's corresponding surface.
Do you have it already? Did it come with instructions, explaining what controls fore & aft movement? The axle on that right side gear appears to have something for that. Is that a spring loaded button?
So I do have it I bought it a year ago and I'm just getting ready to install it I haven't opened the package up yet but I don't think it's spring loaded. When I bought it I was trying to do some researching, and I seen one guy measure the distance between the block and the timing cover he then ground that longer stud down to fit. That didn't seem like it was correct but maybe it was? There is no instructions with it.
Yeah, that guy's method sounds janky. Unless he was using a surface grinder, then polishing the head to a mirror finish. But even so, that's still unacceptable in my mind.
If I was installing it, I'd use a machinist's straight edge across the block's timing cover mounting flange, and measure from there to the "button" or "stud". And take into account, the thickness of the gasket and RTV. Then machine down the button surface, while praying that the flange is actually perpendicular to the camshaft. But even that is way to imprecise for my liking. It just seems there should be something added, like nylon shims or something. But again, that too really bothers me. Between that, and all the other added moving parts, I couldn't get comfortable with it.
I hate when people sharp shoot other guy's choices, but I'm compelled ask why you chose this, over a good double roller timing set.
They wear quickly, and introduce a lot of atomized metal into the oil as they wear. That in turn, wears every moving part & it's corresponding surface.
I tried explaining this to my father for years, he loved the way they sounded. They also introduce weird harmonics and shock loads into the valve train that slightly change cam timing and could potentially break a cam in high HP/high load situations. A chain or a belt will absorb all that.
I tried explaining this to my father for years, he loved the way they sounded. They also introduce weird harmonics and shock loads into the valve train that slightly change cam timing and could potentially break a cam in high HP/high load situations. A chain or a belt will absorb all that.
Yeah, shock loading is another big con. And ironically, that shock loading transfers to the distributor, degrading it's ability to maintain precise timing, and precise timing is the whole pretense behind having a gear drive in the first place.
It's hard to get a good consensus on these things. Few people will actually tell the whole tale when their component choices caused catastrophic failure. I've known a few guys that installed them (or had them installed), but never met a builder that would install one in his own engine.
Well the only reason I'm doing it is cause this is the engine my dad built years ago, and he said he always wanted gear drive but they didn't offer it back then. So now that it's mine and they do I thought I would build it how he wanted to back then.