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Multiple Trouble Codes

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Old Jan 25, 2023 | 06:51 PM
  #1  
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Multiple Trouble Codes

Hey all,

Recently I have been showing multiple trouble codes.
  • P1391
  • P1393
  • P0238
  • P1395
  • P1396
The truck runs fine and I had new injectors and harnesses installed about a year ago. My son drives the truck daily but only to and from school (~5mi round trip). I use the truck about twice a month to tow my 5th wheel (about 12k lbs). No heavy driving and no issues with the truck. When I clear the codes there is no difference and they come back after just a few miles of driving. It doesn't even burn oil. My gut says replace the map sensor since I have had a few, although very seldom, instances of the digital gauge reading 0psi. I will most likely replace it since it's only about $50 but anything else I should check?

1997 7.3
300,XXX miles
200/30 hybrid injectors
Electric fuel pump w/dual filters
EBP valve delete
Hydra Tow Tune Chip
Cold Air Intake
 
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Old Jan 26, 2023 | 08:43 AM
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From: Bahstun
  • P1395
  • P1396
  • P1393
Cali style GPR shunt could be having an issue or glow plug is burnt out

maybe hose fell off map sensor or has a split, easy one to trace from the passenger side intake to above the AC box
 
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Old Jan 26, 2023 | 08:48 AM
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Most of your codes are related to the glow plug circuit. Does the truck fire right up on first start? If not check the GP relay.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2023 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by knottyrope
  • P1395
  • P1396
  • P1393
Cali style GPR shunt could be having an issue or glow plug is burnt out

maybe hose fell off map sensor or has a split, easy one to trace from the passenger side intake to above the AC box
The hose in intact so I don't think that is the issue. Glow plugs are all new. Replaced when the injectors were swapped last year.

Originally Posted by farmert
Most of your codes are related to the glow plug circuit. Does the truck fire right up on first start? If not check the GP relay.
Fires up right away. Sometimes it will take a half second longer if it's been sitting for a week but that is unusual. The relay was replaced last year so I don't know that it has gone bad already. I guess it's easy enough to check and replace though.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2023 | 12:10 PM
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Is your truck a California emissions truck? If it is, I think there is a shunt/buss bar that the GP leads to each bank bolt to, and the buss bar bolts to one post on the relay. That buss bar may not be making good contact sometimes causing the codes.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2023 | 01:19 PM
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Yes it is Cali emissions. Where would that bus bar be located?
 
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Old Jan 26, 2023 | 01:49 PM
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From: Bahstun
Originally Posted by BigRiig
Yes it is Cali emissions. Where would that bus bar be located?
Metal strip on the GPR going to the GPs
 
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Old Jan 26, 2023 | 02:05 PM
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Yeah that checks out. Everything tight and no corrosion. I also am getting a P1000 code which makes me think that the MAP sensor is bad.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2023 | 02:10 PM
  #9  
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From: Bahstun
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...gpr-shunt.html

possible is shunt is good then a GP went out

diagram in post link above
 
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Old Jan 27, 2023 | 12:04 PM
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Is there a process to check the GPR?
 
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Old Jan 27, 2023 | 12:24 PM
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From: western SD
Take a multi meter and check the voltage on the always hot post, then the voltage on the other post with the key in the run position.If I remember right, you should see 1/2 volt or less loss between the 2 post while the relay is energized and working. By working I mean when the computer is calling for the glow plug to be heated. If the relay checks out, go to the wires on the shunt leading to each bank. You should see about the same voltage what you get on the post the shunt is on.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2023 | 05:12 PM
  #12  
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Ok here's what I got:

Always hot post - 12v
Center and shunt posts - 10v
 
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Old Jan 30, 2023 | 08:30 AM
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From: Bahstun
Is your GPR getting hot, that other big post when engaged should be 12 volts.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2023 | 10:53 AM
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It doesn't seem to be hot...warm maybe. I am going to just order a new one and see if that fixes the issue. From other posts I read that the voltage on the center shunt should be closer to 12v and mine is 10v. That's a substantial drop for sure.

 
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Old Jan 30, 2023 | 12:43 PM
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From: Bahstun
i think your contacts are worn if GPR is getting warm. That voltage drop will make the GPs not glow to their potential.

Did you clean all the conatc surfaces of the wires, washers, nut and posts? you would be amazed what a lil corrosion can do to heavy current flow
 
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