She lives!!!
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 53
Likes: 3
She lives!!!
The first real good news in my project.
The truck stated and ran for a little bit today. I didn’t keep it on for very long or give it throttle because the oil pressure gauge never showed any pressure. But with all the issues I’ve had it is just as likely something is wrong in the sensor circuit as actually not building pressure.
I used starting fluid to get it going and it kept running on its own from the fuel tank. Now I’m trying to figure out what is keeping it from starting on its own.
The truck is a 94 F150 XL 2WD 4.9L and an E4OD
Here is a current list of everything I’m seeing:
Before I start digging into everything else electrical I’m wondering if the ECM I got is good or defective. I ask because I’ve read elsewhere on the forums that the fuel pump and lack of ability to pull codes is likely a bad ECM. The other wrinkle is the truck didn’t have an ECM when I got it from my father-in-law I used help from the forum to determine the correct ECM.
I’m just curious if there is a test I can do to determine if it’s a good ECM or if I need to send it back to RockAuto?
The truck stated and ran for a little bit today. I didn’t keep it on for very long or give it throttle because the oil pressure gauge never showed any pressure. But with all the issues I’ve had it is just as likely something is wrong in the sensor circuit as actually not building pressure.
I used starting fluid to get it going and it kept running on its own from the fuel tank. Now I’m trying to figure out what is keeping it from starting on its own.
The truck is a 94 F150 XL 2WD 4.9L and an E4OD
Here is a current list of everything I’m seeing:
- Both fuel pumps come on but never shut off after priming. A fuel pressure gauge read right at 60 psi
- The IAC valve has a rapid clicking. It will stop if I fully open the throttle.
- When I tried to pull the codes from port in engine bay using one of the aftermarket code readers it doesn’t run through the scan.
Before I start digging into everything else electrical I’m wondering if the ECM I got is good or defective. I ask because I’ve read elsewhere on the forums that the fuel pump and lack of ability to pull codes is likely a bad ECM. The other wrinkle is the truck didn’t have an ECM when I got it from my father-in-law I used help from the forum to determine the correct ECM.
I’m just curious if there is a test I can do to determine if it’s a good ECM or if I need to send it back to RockAuto?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12,342
Likes: 1,318
From: Central Mississippi
Glad to hear of your progress.
You mentioned another 94-300 available for salvage, but the computer code didn't match.
If it was an E4OD (trans code E) as well, the ECU if cheap, would be a worthwhile try.
Plenty folk here have run different computers codes if they match the major year/engine/trans parameters.
Which ECU did you use. The FTE recommended or the Ford service dept number?
You mentioned another 94-300 available for salvage, but the computer code didn't match.
If it was an E4OD (trans code E) as well, the ECU if cheap, would be a worthwhile try.
Plenty folk here have run different computers codes if they match the major year/engine/trans parameters.
Which ECU did you use. The FTE recommended or the Ford service dept number?
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 53
Likes: 3
Glad to hear of your progress.
You mentioned another 94-300 available for salvage, but the computer code didn't match.
If it was an E4OD (trans code E) as well, the ECU if cheap, would be a worthwhile try.
Plenty folk here have run different computers if they match the major year/engine/trans parameters.
You mentioned another 94-300 available for salvage, but the computer code didn't match.
If it was an E4OD (trans code E) as well, the ECU if cheap, would be a worthwhile try.
Plenty folk here have run different computers if they match the major year/engine/trans parameters.
Would a bad ECM keep it from starting? Or cause the other issues that I have? I’d like to figure out a way to isolate each of the problems so I don’t start throwing money and parts at the thing.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12,342
Likes: 1,318
From: Central Mississippi
The pumps running constantly & no code are the #1 & 2 signs of a bad computer.
You know it'll fire & you've got fuel pressure, that's half the battle.
The buzzing IAC could be corrupt commands from computer or just a bad IAC.
You know it'll fire & you've got fuel pressure, that's half the battle.
The buzzing IAC could be corrupt commands from computer or just a bad IAC.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 53
Likes: 3
Glad to hear of your progress.
You mentioned another 94-300 available for salvage, but the computer code didn't match.
If it was an E4OD (trans code E) as well, the ECU if cheap, would be a worthwhile try.
Plenty folk here have run different computers codes if they match the major year/engine/trans parameters.
Which ECU did you use. The FTE recommended or the Ford service dept number?
You mentioned another 94-300 available for salvage, but the computer code didn't match.
If it was an E4OD (trans code E) as well, the ECU if cheap, would be a worthwhile try.
Plenty folk here have run different computers codes if they match the major year/engine/trans parameters.
Which ECU did you use. The FTE recommended or the Ford service dept number?
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 53
Likes: 3
The new computer came in from FEDEX today. I installed it and already things were looking better. The fuel pumps primed and then shut off, and the IAC Valve wasn't clicking constantly. The truck started on it's own without any starting fluid. Funny enough it is seeming to run rougher than the old computer that couldn't start itself.
I haven't tried to pull the codes yet or run it for more than a couple of seconds. My next order of business is to get an oil pressure tester since the gauge in the dash cluster hasn't moved yet. Hopefully it is just a bad sensor, especially since the sensor is covered in sludge.
At least things seem to be moving forward.
I haven't tried to pull the codes yet or run it for more than a couple of seconds. My next order of business is to get an oil pressure tester since the gauge in the dash cluster hasn't moved yet. Hopefully it is just a bad sensor, especially since the sensor is covered in sludge.
At least things seem to be moving forward.
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