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You have the correct boot for the 3" PVC plug. It's the factory turbo to CCV boot. The CCV is 3", spin the boot counter clockwise so the plug fits in. Don't go and pressurize thru the CCV mount tho. No need to go above 20psi
Thanks. Is there a trick to removing the turbo boot and crankcase breather mount? I tried pulling, spinning... the rubber seems to be holding onto it for dear life. I was going to take a screw driver to the rubber boot to help open it a bit, but decided it was probably cheaper to find a rubber coupler for fear I'd tear the turbo boot.
I would start with tightening. Those boots can be a booger. Go ahead and make sure all of them are snug. Be careful, the plenums are sheet metal and can bend if you too rowdy with those. Let the leak test show you what to work on beyond that.
Still can’t see the needed area of the uppipes well enough for a positive determination. Usually leak at the section directly below the clamp. You’ll need to check both sides.
Thanks, I was thinking the same and needing both. I need to get better shots in there later this week. I'll post this coming weekend. Thanks again!
Is there a trick to removing the turbo boot and crankcase breather mount?
Not really. Just back both clamps off as much as possible, rock/twist it around. A smooth flat screwdriver works well if it's stuck. I use one to get the spider boots onto the plenums, just don't dig into it or pry with a sharp screwdriver.
Looks like some dusting but it could be lighting in the pic
Thanks for asking. It's been snowing and I finally got a chance to jump out into the freezing cold with daylight to take some pics. What's dusting BTW? Pics attached.
Good idea to check for boost leaks! Anywhere around the boots under the spider or the plenums are typical.
In the pics the truck looks very original. Good find! And with 300k the OEM up pipes are surely leaking. It's a design flaw. One of your pics almost got it; put the phone close to the up pipe. Looking for soot on the up pipe blown down from the cast iron collector above. There is cheap short term fix but I recommend the cure, bellowed up pipes. And yes they can be a biotch to install.
For the air cleaner either keep the K&N and resolve to keep it clean, or switch to a 6637 kit.
Thanks for the note. Yeah, I think mostly original. Driver side up pipe... looking at firewall and down Driver side up pipe... looking at firewall and down Looking at turbo pedestal Looking behind turbo exit Spider, looks like leak on both lower passenger and lower driver side Lower driver side of spider, looks like it's leaking too Driver side Looks like leak or spill from power steering Looks like leak or spill from power steering Looking at driver side of engine valve cover Looking at driver side of engine valve cover
I went looking for more soot and took a bunch of pics. Didn't see soot that jumped out at me. I took a bunch of pics. And I really could only see the driver side of the up-pipes. I couldn't really get any good view of the passenger side up-pipe.
I did notice some old oil leak - looks like possibly from power steering?
Dusting is damage on the leading edge of your compressor blades. This occurs from dirt bypassing the (K&N cough) air filter. Your’s doesn’t look too bad in my opinion, I’ve seen worse. You can see some in the circled areas.
This is the area the uppipes are most likely to leak and what I was interested in seeing. It seems like there may be a tiny bit of soot here but not bad. We need to find a way to check the other side. Also check down where they meet the manifolds.
I would check the manifolds well. Can’t tell from the photo but that may be a little soot. My truck has had issues here. Found mine by doing a cold startup and feeling for leaks. The second one was located with a endoscope finding soot behind the manifold. This is NOT a fun job. We can give you pointers though if you end up needing to reseal them.
I would check this first. The CAC is known for wearing a hole here with contact to the PS line or fitting. Lots of oil here and below makes this very suspicious.
Dusting is damage on the leading edge of your compressor blades. This occurs from dirt bypassing the (K&N cough) air filter. Your’s doesn’t look too bad in my opinion, I’ve seen worse. You can see some in the circled areas.
Thanks for the detailed review! I see what you mean by the dusting. I'm curious if that may have been caused by me. I've been starting it up and moving it in my driveway (paved) without the K&N filter a few times due to having it out for cleaning. I've been a bit lazy to put it back together since I've been meaning to get the boost leak test completed.
I noticed the crazy amount of old oil leak at the PS hose. I figured it was someone lazy trying to fill the PS steering oil. I really should get that all soaped up and cleaned to see if there's any new fluid leaking (and from where).
Now... just gotta wait for it to stop snowing and just warm up above freezing. It's super hard to do anything at the moment with the cold. Can't really feel my fingers or hands when I'm out there so feeling for exhaust manifold leaks with my hands may not yield results.
Thanks again for the suggestions. I'll report back as soon as I can (probably a week given the weather and only having weekends to work):
1. Tighten all the CAC boots
2. Clean the area near the PS reservoir
3. Boost leak test at all clamps and locations prone to leak
I was looking for intercooler boots just in case and noticed that my uppers (hot) are blue (which from reading the forums may be OEM), but the lowers are orange. Even stranger, the orange boots have standard hose clamps vs the clamps I saw on DieselSite or RiffRaff. Anyone know what those orange boots are from? I think Ford OEM is blue and black? Orange boot with standard hose clamp?
Those are all factory. Many that upgrade boots and plenum inserts get t bolt clamps for right there like the rest. It honestly wouldn't be a bad idea to replace all the boots. Riff raff makes a nice kit to replace them all. There 20 years old and been soaked in oil there whole life.
T bolt clamps are a nice addition, but can deform the factory plenums. Add a set of Riffraff plenum inserts while doing the job. They are cheap and easy to install. Adds rigidity to the factory plenum so you can crank down the clamps.
Finally found time to make the boost check cap and warm enough to get out to mess with the truck. I was surprised to see where the leaks are. Here are pictures of the leaks. Also, surprised to not see any leaks at the plenum boots or mass air sensor line.
I haven't gone after these leaks yet. Interesting one is the one on top of the engine. Anything special I should consider besides tightening nuts and possibly cutting air lines shorter and replacing with hose clamps? I'm not sure what the line is on the engine. Should I just tighten that?
Well good news, fixing those leaks will surely help performance.
Bad news, that plenum leak won’t be a fun fix.
This is manifold air temp sensor. Mine was leaking as well. I replaced with one from a part store even though sensors are preferred to be Motorcraft. Then I stood it up on the end and epoxied the outside of the original and placed in my spare parts box. Kind of wish I’d have tried that first.
This is a plenum leak. I had one of those as well. Motorcraft TA-31 silicone for the repair. Riffraff sells billet plenums with an oring if you want to go fancy. It’s not leaking from the hose if that’s what you were asking. The braided line is a high pressure oil from the HPOP.
Air Intake Heater. Try tightening the large portion. You may need to loosen the nut so the wires have play. But you’ll be pulling the turbo for the plenum repair anyhow….
even though sensors are preferred to be Motorcraft. Then I stood it up on the end and epoxied the outside of the original and placed in my spare parts box. Kind of wish I’d have tried that first.