Hey guys I have a 1990 f250 idi 5 speed I changed the clutch lever bushing and it still has some slop in it I was wondering if I could reclock the lever that connects to the slave cylinder to take up some of the slack ….has anyone done this …thanks .

 

No, there isn't any adjustment on the hydraulic clutch system. The slave cylinder is at the transmission. The master cylinder is mounted on the firewall and connects to the pedal through the linkage under the dash.
There is the bushing at the end of the master cylinder pushrod. That frequently wears out, and can egg out the end of the pushrod as well. There are also bushings where the pedal pivots on the rod. Which bushings did you replace? A common fix for pushrod bushing is to change it out with a heim joint (spherical bushing)

Check to see if your firewall is flexing when the pedal is pushed. The firewall is quite thin and often cracked allowing it to flex. Ford make a bracket to correct this, and I think there is another company that still makes the bracket if your truck doesn't have one.

Also it is very hard to bleed all the air out of this system due to how its designed. So look into that procedure if there might be air in the line (or if the fluid is old and you need to change it)

 

Thank you for that info …..I replaced the bushing from the master to the rod I’ll check the other ones but it looks like it moves about an inch before it starts working fluid …it’s kind of hard to explain but my foot has to be almost on the floor before it disengages the clutch

 

And I am ordering that hiem joint today thank you

 

The early trucks had a problem with the Fire Wall flexing when the Clutch is pushed in, and eventually cracks develope.
There is a Plate to beef up that area.
Only place to get one is Bronco Grave Yard.

1983-1991 Ford Bronco & Ford Truck Firewall Fix-Broncograveyard.com

Iam still trying to figure out what bushings you are talking about.
As tecgod13 said, these Clutches are Hydraulic.
New Slave Cylinders come with a plastic strap that holds the Rod in.
You leave the strap on while installing it.
First time you push in the Clutch Peddle, it snaps the strap leaving the
cup on the rod as a bushing. This keeps the Rod and Shift Fork from
being metal on metal.

Charlie

 

Charlie, there is a shaft that both the clutch and brake pedal are mounted to. I don't remember the exact setup off the top of my head... The pedals and shaft are mounted on a bracket under the dash, the shaft is supported at the outer ends, and I think in between the pedals. I think the clutch pedal is keyed to the left part of the shaft and rotates the shaft. The brake pedal rotates freely on the shaft and connects to the master cylinder with a pin on the pedal. The right end of the shaft has a metal link keyed to the shaft held in place with a bolt. The end of that metal link has a pin that snaps into a crappy plastic bushing that snaps into the pushrod for the clutch master cylinder. That crappy bushing wears out easily and creates some slop in the system, as well as eventually wearing out the end of the pushrod. This metal link/pushrod is where the popular heim joint fix is located.
That pedal shaft also has a set of thing plastic bushings where it passes through bracket under the dash, might be a set of bushings in the brake pedal too. These bushings can also cause some slop, but not as much, and are harder to replace than the one at the pushrod end. You have to pull the shaft out of the brake pedal and the brackets to replace them, and space under the dash is very tight for that. I did do these on my '93, and modified the metal link somehow. I think I was too cheap to do the heim joint, but may have cut the pin out and put a bolt in there with some sort of wear protection? I would link a picture, but I'll be honest and say I'm too tired and lazy tonight (sorry) There should be a good exploded view in the shop manual if you have a copy.

 

OK, I wasn`t thinking of the Bushing where the Clutch MC Rod connects to.
I replaced that bushing one time, but got chewed up because the pin was 1/2
wore through. Had a piece of wire holding it together....was on borrowed time.

last June 13th took one of Peddle assemblies from under the dash apart.
I picked it up from PNP off an 85 6.9. Bought the 3 packages of the plastic
bushings the Dealer had in stock. (Part# EOTZ-2471-A) It takes 4 Bushings,
and 6 come in the bag.

Took the assembly apart, wire wheeled the Clutch/Brake Levers and repainted them.
Washed up the Aluminum frame and wire wheeled off 30 yrs of k rap.
The big shaft the peddle levers hang onto is the bracket with the pin the Bushing and
MC connect to. This makes it easy to grind off the weld and knock out the pin for the
Heim Joint Mod.
I tried to pry off the little lever a couple years ago laying on my back under the dash,
w/o any results and gave up before I broke something.

June 22nd.
Then it just a matter of of putting it all back together with the new Bushings.
Brake peddle hangs in the center and Clutch lever on the out side of the Aluminum Assy.
on the left end of the shaft, with a nut holding it all together. Be sure to use Lock-Tite.

Then the fun part of installing the assembly, Steering Column and getting it connected
to the rag joint and the other Piddly Diddly stuff, like the MC Rod connected to the Heim
joint and adjusted.

It`s good to have a 2nd Clutch/Brake Peddle assy. to R&R, so when doing the replacement
The truck is only down a day or so.

I have read where the bushings have wore through and into the aluminum frame, egging out the
metal. Then you need to find another assy.

We installed the FW plate several years ago when we put in the new Clutch.


Charlie