3 for 1k. Worth it?
tomorrow I will get more pictures of it up close and I’ll make sure it has body mounts still. Try to look in the power barn.
I apologize, could a moderator move this to the 67 forum page. I accidentally put this in the 73. I can’t figure out how to move it.
F-100
250 Ranger
Dually
Last edited by CarterDawson; Jan 1, 2023 at 09:54 PM.
From the looks of it from the grilles, the 250 and 350 are 1968, maybe 1969. The F100 appearing to be 1967 was a unique year for a few body and trim parts which makes it an oddball in the generation--this is a necessary read before you go: https://www.fordification.com/tech/67differences.htm. Mechanically, not too different though apart from steering box I think.
So to answer your question, they are by-in-large pretty swappable with some caveots. Major body panels are fully swappable. Mechanically, there are some differences like the front suspension will be leafs on your 4x4 250/350 instead of what Ford called twin-I-beams on the F100 as well as a handful of other driveline differences if it is a 4x4 like steering box, mount locations, axles, etc. Basically, a number of differences to beef things up to spec. A driveline swap is not going to be 100% direct bolt-on. Engines and transmissions can be swapped but you might have to change out the engine mount locations, bell housing and/or driveshaft/ujoint when swapping between I6/sbf/bbf that can be major work. There are some other minor differences like accellerator linkages as well but these can be done to make it drivable. Nothing different on the core electric circuitry.
That being said, the bad news is that any through-rust on the roof lines like it looks like you have here is pretty uncommon and is impossible to repair. There's likely a lot more. You could just to make sure it is solid and drive it (can't push a screwdriver through it and it should "clunk" not "pop" when you hit it near the points where it's questionable). If you don't like the speed holes on your driver, then that's a pretty big ding against this plan. Other points of interest for rust as a checklist coming in to this generation of Ford--the following locations are common and are repairable from replacement panels if you can weld and do body work:
- Front cab mount collapsing (structural; visible from the front wheelwells)
- Rear cab mount center support bracing near the ends rusted through (pretty cosmetic but really badly rusted ones beyond just the ends can be structural)
- Floor pans and kick panels (pretty cosmetic, can be structural; single side replacements only)
- Front fender behind the wheelwell (pretty cosmetic; replace the fender usually)
- Door skin exterior bottom (pretty cosmetic)
- Cab rear corner skin rusted thorough (pretty cosmetic)
- Inner fender brace to the radiator mount rusted through (structural)
I am definitely in the camp that has you getting rid of the Chevys and going full 67 Ford but keep in mind that these are much much older trucks than those Chevys. If you need a daily driver, these are going to be hard pressed to work if that's your expectation.
However, If you're looking for a good place to start a first big project on a true vintage truck, you probably can't get any better than $1 a few Ford trucks to tinker on with their relatively straightforward mechanicals and parts that are pretty easy to obtain from a junkyard or comparitively pretty cheap from Rock Auto. Still going to be a challenge no doubt but I can't see you not getting your $1k back out of them in parts if you at least have the means to transport and store them.
Let us know how it goes.
Trending Topics
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Seems like it would be at least worth it just to strip and flip parts and scrap out the rest. I've done that on a couple old vehicles that people were gonna send to scrap and made some decent money selling the stuff online.
Good news is that the lady that owns them gave the F-100 to my little brother who’s 14, and me. I was able to roll the engine over easy with no rough spots. The oil isn’t full of water and it smells like oil. No gas in the oil. It’s got a 352 in it. The lady that gave it to us said we can take any parts off the trucks that we want. The ranger has a Edelbrock carb and some headers and straight pipes. That’s just what I could see through the rust in the hood. I figure I’ll rob them off it. The hinges are stuck. Anyways. I’m excited to get my own project going. Thanks.
Last edited by CarterDawson; Jan 2, 2023 at 09:43 PM.














