No dash lights….
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 828
Likes: 66
From: Hartford, WI
No dash lights….
So I have no dash lights…which also means no light for the radio, gear selector and heater controls. Everything else works….blinkers, headlights, running lights etc…
So trying to figure out what the problem is…
I pulled the gauge cluster to check it out on the backside. All good! So I put a 12v line tester in the truck and checked the wiring harness that plugs into the back of the cluster. No power to up to the cluster thru the harness.
I replaced the fuse with three different ones. Still not lights.
So I put the 12v line tester on the fuse connections. When the headlight switch is off…no power to the line tester. All good. Turn the lights on…there is power going to the top side of the fuse block/connector but not power to the bottom side of the fuse.
So I unscrewed the fuse block from the firewall and looked at the backside of it to see if the lower wires some how where corroded or broke. Nope all look good.
Is it possible the fuse connector inside the block broke?
Thanks, Frank
So trying to figure out what the problem is…
I pulled the gauge cluster to check it out on the backside. All good! So I put a 12v line tester in the truck and checked the wiring harness that plugs into the back of the cluster. No power to up to the cluster thru the harness.
I replaced the fuse with three different ones. Still not lights.
So I put the 12v line tester on the fuse connections. When the headlight switch is off…no power to the line tester. All good. Turn the lights on…there is power going to the top side of the fuse block/connector but not power to the bottom side of the fuse.
So I unscrewed the fuse block from the firewall and looked at the backside of it to see if the lower wires some how where corroded or broke. Nope all look good.
Is it possible the fuse connector inside the block broke?
Thanks, Frank
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 171
Likes: 36
From: CA
You could try installing a spare headlight switch if you have one.
I had no dash lights when i had my radio out, everything else worked fine during that time.
so maybe make sure all the other connectors are clean and snug if you havent already.
I had no dash lights when i had my radio out, everything else worked fine during that time.
so maybe make sure all the other connectors are clean and snug if you havent already.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,841
Likes: 2,612
From: The Shenandoah Valley
Just pull the headlight switch out of the truck, take it to your bench, look at the coil looking ring around the front, clean it and the wiper that moves along the coil when you turn the ****, can use a pencil eraser if careful, I even tweak mine to better contact the resistance coil, reinstall .... done.
It gets dirty and it controls all dash lights.
It gets dirty and it controls all dash lights.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,606
Likes: 1,175
From: San Jose, CA
That’s very strange. If you test power to one side of the fuse and not the other, the only possible answer is that the fuse is blown.
The power comes in from the switch to one side of the fuse. You verified that that is happening so both the switch and the input side connector for the fuse are functioning.
If there is no power to the other side of the fuse, then the path is broken within the fuse. Not within the fuse panel.
If you could see power at both sides of the fuse, but still not getting to the instruments, then, yes, it could be a problem with the connector or wiring.
But since you’re not seeing it at the other side of the fuse, then the path broken right there in front of your eyes.
Somewhere between one fuse clip, and the other.
Yeah, I know you tested it with three fuses. But something is wrong. Can you test the fuses themselves with an ohm meter?
And what your truck is this? You’re testing the shortest of the fuses. Correct?
The power comes in from the switch to one side of the fuse. You verified that that is happening so both the switch and the input side connector for the fuse are functioning.
If there is no power to the other side of the fuse, then the path is broken within the fuse. Not within the fuse panel.
If you could see power at both sides of the fuse, but still not getting to the instruments, then, yes, it could be a problem with the connector or wiring.
But since you’re not seeing it at the other side of the fuse, then the path broken right there in front of your eyes.
Somewhere between one fuse clip, and the other.
Yeah, I know you tested it with three fuses. But something is wrong. Can you test the fuses themselves with an ohm meter?
And what your truck is this? You’re testing the shortest of the fuses. Correct?
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 828
Likes: 66
From: Hartford, WI
I’ve put three headlight switches in it. The original, a spare old one and bought a brand new one. It’s not the headlight switch.
I’ve put three fuses in it…and I even tested the fuses for continuity….fuses are good. I did test the fuses with a ohm meter. I should’ve put that in my first post. Sorry!
Yes testing the shortest fuse. Even pulled the book to confirm I was in the right part of the fuse block as well.
The truck is a 77 Shortbox 4x4. 460 with a automatic. The 460 is pretty much stock except for an intake and carb. Pulled it out of a 77 F350.
I’ve put three fuses in it…and I even tested the fuses for continuity….fuses are good. I did test the fuses with a ohm meter. I should’ve put that in my first post. Sorry!
Yes testing the shortest fuse. Even pulled the book to confirm I was in the right part of the fuse block as well.
The truck is a 77 Shortbox 4x4. 460 with a automatic. The 460 is pretty much stock except for an intake and carb. Pulled it out of a 77 F350.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 828
Likes: 66
From: Hartford, WI
Just pull the headlight switch out of the truck, take it to your bench, look at the coil looking ring around the front, clean it and the wiper that moves along the coil when you turn the ****, can use a pencil eraser if careful, I even tweak mine to better contact the resistance coil, reinstall .... done.
It gets dirty and it controls all dash lights.
It gets dirty and it controls all dash lights.
Even went and bought a brand new switch and tried a spare old one I had laying around as well.
Didn’t work on the truck for the last two months. It’s in storage in the pole shed now for the winter. Truck is rust free from NV and had all the body work and paint done as well. So it doesn’t get driven in the BS WI winter with salt on the roads.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 828
Likes: 66
From: Hartford, WI
The only conclusion I can come to is the bottom connector of the fuse pins is some how broke which in turn is breaking the connection. If it is broke don’t I know how it broke. One day I had dash lights…. Then a few days later I took the truck out at night (even in the day time I have my running lights on) and pulled the headlight switch and presto…no dash lights. No the truck doesn’t get beat off road etc… it’s a street truck. I’ll pull the ATV trailer with it and that is the extent of heavy duty work.
There is no corrosion but to be sure I even took a small wire brush and cleaned the contact clamp pins that hold the fuse in. Still nothing.
The lower clamp of the fuse seems loose when the fuse is out. The top clamp seems snugger.
I have a spare wiring harness I pulled out of the 77 F350. I’ll take a look at it tomorrow during the day before I start doing anything on the truck and wreck something I shouldn’t wreck. LOL!
There is no corrosion but to be sure I even took a small wire brush and cleaned the contact clamp pins that hold the fuse in. Still nothing.
The lower clamp of the fuse seems loose when the fuse is out. The top clamp seems snugger.
I have a spare wiring harness I pulled out of the 77 F350. I’ll take a look at it tomorrow during the day before I start doing anything on the truck and wreck something I shouldn’t wreck. LOL!
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,534
Likes: 85
From: penn twp.
Shortbox I have a stupid question. Did you verify that the headlight switch(s) aren't truned to full dim? Basically when that happens it's like turning the headlight switch off to the dashboard. None of the dash lights will power up. Not even the lights to the hvac control unit or the ash tray if your truck is equipped with the ashtray light. Otherwise yes it's possible that you could have a damage fuse block. I just hope it's just this simple.
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Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 828
Likes: 66
From: Hartford, WI
Shortbox I have a stupid question. Did you verify that the headlight switch(s) aren't truned to full dim? Basically when that happens it's like turning the headlight switch off to the dashboard. None of the dash lights will power up. Not even the lights to the hvac control unit or the ash tray if your truck is equipped with the ashtray light. Otherwise yes it's possible that you could have a damage fuse block. I just hope it's just this simple.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 828
Likes: 66
From: Hartford, WI
Well to resurrect this thread….yes it’s darn near exactly a year later. I figured out why the horns all by themselves started going off and then like 2 weeks later I lost all my dash lights.
I don’t drive the truck during the winter time and not a ton of night time driving with it as well as it’s not my daily driver. So I just dealt with no dash lights and no horns (I unplugged the horn relay). During the course of the summer like I posted above, I again traced all wires, checked sockets, tried 3 different headlight switches (which included a brand new one). Nothing fixed anything.
So the only thing I never replaced in the truck was the steering column. I did the lower bearing upgrade in my column and cleaned it up etc… but that was it. So going out on a limb I bought a rebuilt steering column. Had it now for a couple of weeks and finally got around to pulling out my original column and put the new/rebuilt column in.
Guess what!!?? My dash lights now work and the horns work like normal as well.
So something/wiring wise inside the old column must have been creating a short and took the dash lights out and made the horns stick on.
The rebuilt column also shifts a lot smoother.
Later, Shortbox4x4
I don’t drive the truck during the winter time and not a ton of night time driving with it as well as it’s not my daily driver. So I just dealt with no dash lights and no horns (I unplugged the horn relay). During the course of the summer like I posted above, I again traced all wires, checked sockets, tried 3 different headlight switches (which included a brand new one). Nothing fixed anything.
So the only thing I never replaced in the truck was the steering column. I did the lower bearing upgrade in my column and cleaned it up etc… but that was it. So going out on a limb I bought a rebuilt steering column. Had it now for a couple of weeks and finally got around to pulling out my original column and put the new/rebuilt column in.
Guess what!!?? My dash lights now work and the horns work like normal as well.
So something/wiring wise inside the old column must have been creating a short and took the dash lights out and made the horns stick on.
The rebuilt column also shifts a lot smoother.
Later, Shortbox4x4
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,217
Likes: 506
From: Pa.
Guess what!!?? My dash lights now work and the horns work like normal as well.
It sounds like you lost your ground at the steering column, maybe.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 828
Likes: 66
From: Hartford, WI
That’s all I can figure out as well. Just where inside the column I don’t know. I’ll take the column apart late winter or early spring and work on it.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 828
Likes: 66
From: Hartford, WI
When something like this happens and the OP posts up what they found out regardless of how much time has past it’s nice to know the outcome as it can help anyone/all of us out.
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