Mike1, mechanic said it only includes the front; everything in the back is good. I guess I should have asked. I should have taken a coupon with me. $1,700 for the front brakes. I don't feel so good about it now.

 

Through ford parts giant the whole hub assembly costs like $120, plus the best caliper is like $100, that's $440 before tax. Thus guy must have a hell of a labor rate.

 

This website is Virginia-specific and says $1500 is within a range that is reasonable. ://advancedautomotiveva.com/how-much-should-brake-repair-cost/ It does not mention front or back brakes. The high end of the range is over $3,000 so I assume it is only front or only back brakes.

 

Well all I can say is Virginia is awful expensive. I'm in Chicago area and complete brake job is 400 to 800, 1000 if new hub assemblies. Good luck let us know how it turns out for you.

 

I don't know how much besides anti -lock brakes that systems have evolved since the 80 and 90's but I am so glad that my father let me work in his garage when i was very young!
The calipers and brake hoses are not all there is to think about if one or both calipers are sticking. My van has had contentious issues with uneven brake ware and lots of brake dust build up on everything. I have changed rotors, seals, bearings, calipers, and hoses. even a new spindle on the RT side. I have done this twice (except for the spindle) and still have lots of dust and uneven pad wear.

There is an adjustable push-rod between the master cylinder and power brake booster that has to be set pretty precise. If the adjustment is a little on the tight side then the calipers may release may seem to release when the front wheels are off the ground and cool but tighten up when you start driving. The brakes and the caliper heats up causing the brake fluid to expand. As the fluid expands, the caliper may not retract quit as far as it should and the pads rub a bit more causing even more wear.

I bought a new brake booster and master cylinder and plan to replace them in the spring.

I remember the lawyer looked at the mechanics bill and exclaimed: Wow that's more then I make an hour! The mechanic calmly replied: yea, I know, I used to be a lawyer!

 

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

 

We're seeing how continuing to drive a vehicle that's in obvious need of repair or inspection most often leads to causing more damage and naturally higher costs when/if repairs are undertaken. Simple things like checking tire pressure regularly is beneficial too.

I'm in an on-call mobile vehicle service business and when asked something foolish like "why does this cost so much?" and I reply with what it takes to complete the job they tend to at minimum understand and accept it OR move onto another provider. When we're not able to DIY our vehicle work we have little choice but to accept the going rate locally. Sure $1,700 seems like a lot but we have no idea what else this quoted mechanic will do other than be a parts changer. Wisely this mechanic is advising this customer how to repair his vehicle and be safe, something absolutely necessary for both parties.

I also ask customers "how much do YOU make?" and then ask "why so much?".

 

$1,700 does seem a little high but if they have a really good reputation and are using top quality parts then it is not outrageous. The parts are probably much more than people here realize and the shop will most likely charge retail on them. Price out OEM calipers, rotors, hoses, pads and Timken inner seals and bearings. You will be shocked. Don't forget fluid and grease. Probably over a grand. There is a "local" chain of tire/repair shops (about 20 locations) here that is now at $145/hour for repair work. I was shocked at that labor rate but that is the world we live in now.

 

If my dad had spent any time repairing his own vehicles I would have learned how to fix my own brakes. If he did I don't remember it. I think its too high and a lot of other people think its too high. I will pick the vehicle up today and I will expect to not have to go back to the shop because something isn't working right. My wife reminded me that I had mentioned that this Ford van was pulling left or right when I went in to have the Ford Center fix my AC. I don't remember but let's assume they said they checked it and there was nothing there. I did my duty. Its not a vehicle I drive very often. After Ford Center I didn't drive it but once and then I posted my problem on this website because I don't want to ruin the vehicle. Next step, I take it to this shop that does brakes for a living and they have fixed it. Not my fault the rotor was red hot and the brake pad was fried. I blame that on the Ford repair shop for not catching it. They had notice. As for saving your money it is wise to question and if you think something is too expensive maybe you should say so. I usually just accept it and walk away. He put ceramic brake pads in he said but how do I know? Otherwise, I agree with everything you are saying JWA. And I appreciate your opinion and your comment. This website is invaluable for giving good advice.


EDIT: This franchise offers 10% off on parts to military personnel. I didn't ask for it until after I paid the bill. The regional manager puts his phone number on the receipt. I called him and he gave me the 10% discount. Can't ask for much more than that.

 

 

Ford should have caught this problem before the brakes seized up. Shows one thing: those Ford child mechanics don't know what they are doing when it comes to a vehicle pulling left or right. They were on notice. They were told and they did nothing; nothing to see here. Do these Ford E250 van front brakes look like $1700?

 

Unleaded gasoline what octane is best for a Ford E-250 Econoline van with the big engine. Thanks.

 

Your owners manual will probably tell you that 87 Octane is Ok to use. I use Midgrade myself. I get a couple more miles to the gallon.

• Regular (the lowest octane fuel–generally 87)
• Midgrade (the middle range octane fuel–generally 89–90)
• Premium (the highest octane fuel–generally 91–94)