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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Dec 29, 2022 | 08:18 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 351Cleveland C4
Reading about the same issue over on F150online. One guy said his fix was the intake gaskets. I'm really wondering if that isn't my issue as well.
How did you set the timing and what did you set it at?

What's the harmonic balancer look like behind the lower pulley? Is the rubber trying to come out and is all cracked up? Or is it in good shape? Also, did you use ALL the components on the front of the engine from the newer engine? Or the older engine? Or did you mix and match timing covers and harmonic balancers? Sometimes they moved the pointer tabs around through the years.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2022 | 08:23 PM
  #17  
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Timing is at 14, as it was, and as the famous "six-liter" tune up says. Set with spout unplugged of course.

All components from the original engine. But with a new harmonic balancer as the original was in pretty poor shape.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2022 | 09:00 PM
  #18  
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The Idle air control valve is known to stick when warm and cause jumping idle. Might try cleaning it?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2022 | 09:46 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by AndyFarms
The Idle air control valve is known to stick when warm and cause jumping idle. Might try cleaning it?
But unplugging it gets rid of the problem. (While running the throttle by hand)
 
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Old Dec 29, 2022 | 09:55 PM
  #20  
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Yes if unplugging it while holding the throttle fixes the jumping idle the valve is likely the problem. (In my experience.)
 
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Old Dec 29, 2022 | 10:09 PM
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If it was stuck, wouldn't the idle be uncontrollable? IE, it wouldn't fluctuate at all
 
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Old Dec 29, 2022 | 10:22 PM
  #22  
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My 89 Ranger would “stick” open momentarily then snap shut and “stick”. RPMs would jump up and down, was miserable to drive with a standard transmission.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2022 | 07:51 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 351Cleveland C4
But unplugging it gets rid of the problem. (While running the throttle by hand)
Also with it unplugged, adjust the throttle stop screw till the engine will barely idle and you do not have to hold the throttle by hand. Then plug it back in. Give it a few drives and starts to let the computer relearn the new setting.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2023 | 07:57 PM
  #24  
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From: On the Edge of the Desert
Well it's not running lean.....
 
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Old Jan 5, 2023 | 02:12 PM
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I don't know if changing out your thermostat from a 195 to a 180 affected your computer controlled system but I do suspect that having your engine run cooler than the original opening temperature could affect your efficiency and operation of your engine. Even in the desert your engine is designed to run at 195 and above for optimal performance. If you are having over heating issues the problem is not with the thermostat. It's likely a plugged radiator or weak water pump or improper fan operation. The thermostat is there to guarantee you get up to optimal operating temperature because your engine likes to run at or above the opening temperature. Once it's fully open your cooling system takes over to keep in the operating range. A cold running engine will build up carbon and reduce gas mileage.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2023 | 03:22 PM
  #26  
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There's no overheating issue, but in the summertime it's consistently running 215 to 220 and that's a little bit too warm.

Like you said, the thermostat doesn't control the heating, just the coolant flow. 180 should be fully open at 200 instead of 215. Hopefully allowing the cooling system to keep it just a tad cooler.


Right now the issue I'm chasing is that it's running very rich, and I can't get it to lean out.
I'm trying to gather information on what sensor inputs the computer uses to control the fuel map Obviously it's the MAP sensor, the engine coolant temperature sensor, throttle position sensor, and 02 sensor. As well as????

I haven't been able to pinpoint a problem with any of those as of yet.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2023 | 08:45 PM
  #27  
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You might keep an eye on that. If you are running at 185 and your normal op temp is 195, then you're cold.

I recently replaced my thermostat on my 6.9 because it was wide open and I could not get warmed up short of dropping cardboard in front of the radiator. There is a point when there's too much flow too early that makes it hard to build heat.

I have a 195 degree thermostat in mine as well. You could try cardboard blocking a portion of the radiator to raise you up when you're not bucking 100 degree days. When I've been in the desert or in hot weather I haven't had an overheating issue at all. I like the way my engine runs so much better when fully warmed up.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2023 | 08:52 PM
  #28  
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Diesels do run better the hotter they get (to a point)

There is no issue running at 180-185. It's warm enough to run properly. Helps keep the intake and air charge slightly cooler as well.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2023 | 09:14 PM
  #29  
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I definitely had less power and used more fuel for that 50 mile run with a cold engine.

I usually stay with the specified equipment on all my vehicles. But you know your engine. If the power is there and your mileage stays good and the rings are sealing adequately you're good to go.

I hope someone else can help you with your computer. I'd be one of those guys that goes to a non computer ignition. Good luck!
 
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Old Jan 5, 2023 | 09:27 PM
  #30  
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What fuel pressure do you have and does it hold after the engine is shut off? If you have some leaking injectors that would result in a very rich idle mixture.
 
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