Scott's 1965 F250 Project
Starting around 2009, I began my career in a small city of about five square miles in NY. As a car guy, I got to know what cool car or truck belonged to who or what house they sat behind etc. One such gem was a 60's "F100" that sat behind an old vintage house, being used to hold wet leaves
. I got to know the owner a little who also had some muscle cars and an old Jag as well.
Several years later after I had transferred to a larger job, and while activated by the national guard, I set out to purchase a project truck with some of the military money. After originally searching for a bump side, I saw the above pictures on craigslist of a f100 with no year listed and the owner asking way too much money. I recognized the truck and tried the number and e-mail in the add but both were wrong. That same day, I swung by the house to see what the details were and found out the owner hadn't really wanted to sell any of his vehicles but his wife was making him cull the herd by two. We had a beer and talked for a while. The truck was originally a sand shell beige 2wd 1965 F250 custom cab that someone had farm painted green and white (even painting across the light reflectors with just the lenses removed!) and added f100 badges I'm guessing due to the 65 F250 emblems being one year only.
It had dodge chrome wheels, dealer installed bumper guards and rust issues. Drive train was a 352 FE with a NP435 four speed/granny low and a 4.10 dana 60 locking rear. The truck was originally owned by an apple farmer in NY and then bought by the second owner who used to to haul large beams from a mill for his house restoration. It had been parked for about 10 years and started on the first try every time. We reached a price 1/4 of his asking and I drove it 40 miles home Roadkill style on a major interstate with one bad brake hose.Artsy shot at my house:
During this time, I started hunting down original steel wheels. The 62-65 8-lug steelies that take the larger bottle center caps aren't the easiest to find. It took two years of looking to find 5 wheels and four center caps. Still not sold on the caps vs the open look. The wheels were powder coated in Ral #1013 Oyster White which was a match for Wimbledon White and wrapped in Deestone 504's.
Scrap To Art Metalworks has a great youtube video explaining how to take a piece of pipe with the same outside circumference as the stock tailgate bottom and replacing the whole bottom of these gates. This is the link:
After cutting off the bottom of the tailgate, I treated the inside with rust mort and then welded flat sheet metal from the tube to the tailgate on both sides. Eastwood cavity spray was used in every point possible. I bought two cans and made a double length hose to reach everything.
More tube with a .175" OD was used to set the side to side movement of the installed gate. I drilled the bottom of the tailgate/pipe and rosette welded the "plug". This pic was before finish welded and bodywork.
Eastwood SCT was used to strip everything down, not as good as blasting but I was and always am still learning.
Bodywork with eastwood products and sealed in 2k primer. Red glow was from tomato grow lights in the basement.
Bodywork was finished on the gate and sprayed with 2K primer. It's still waiting on sealer.
Trending Topics
A cab from a different part of PA for $450. This needs way less work that the cab on the truck which is rusted everywhere roof to floor. This cab had some crappy pan repairs and needs some love but everything was an area where I got patch panels from Carolina Classics and Flashback F100's. Foot pans, cab corners, lower door jams, and front and rear mounts have since been Purchased.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
More parts purchased as we worked on the new house: Original pent roof valve covers from eBay, blasted and sprayed gold. I may powder coat them before they go on.
A 17inch steering wheel from Flashpower. Their quality is excellent but I'm not sure they are still in business? Not shown is a paintable tilt column from iDidit.
Gas filler from a metal artist on IG for my bed fill. Not shown is a 70 mustang 20 gallon tank for between the frame rails off FB marketplace.
Finally, the big purchase of a complete bed floor from sschassisworx ! Mine is in the crate so this is a picture I stole from their site. Not pictured is the front bed rail and rear wheel wells also purchased.
More parts collecting, Roller rockers from David Dove, he machined down some of his HD style rockers to OE size so that I could use the spacer kit I had already purchased.
I had a local sandblast guy come to the house and blast the cab in the driveway. He was very reasonable and blew off each section as he finished so I could hit the bare metal with eastwood 2K primer (7 cans)!. The cab is now in my garage that I had insulated last spring.
This was a great find, 300 bucks for a 2003 King Ranch superduty rear seat! No rips and most if not all of the dirt and stains will come out. I want to find more material to reupholster my door pockets too but I'll make a separate post for that eventually.
I'm particularly interested in the King Ranch seat installation. I see them on the local CL occasionally; way cheaper than a re-upholster of the original.
I used a center punch to make sure non of the holes were raised.
I didn't take any pictures using the body solder but I found the best technique wasn't smooshing it into the holes but dripping it into the rain gutter and then dragging it up into the holes with the waxed, wooden spatula. I wasn't 100% that I got every pin hole so I used Marine Tex epoxy to seal every thing up.
After bodywork, which at this point was just a very light amount of filler. I'll work it move before sealing everything. This is sprayed in Eastwood 2K primer.









