I’m looking to put 2 kill switches on my 7.3 idi. The plan is to put one toggle switch spliced between the solenoid and the starter solenoid, and the other switch spliced in the FSS power line. I would then obviously hide the two switches somewhere in the cab.

Does anyone know what gauge wiring is used between the two solenoids (for the starter shut-off) and what gauge wiring is used for the FSS power line? Also, any clue on amperage so I know what rating to look for when purchasing toggle switches?

I noticed there are two 'power' lines feeding into the FSS, I'm assuming I only need to find the right one between the two and not splice both.

I understand that this is no guarantee that the truck won’t get stolen, but hopefully it just makes it that much more difficult so they ultimately move onto something else...

 

On the fss, one wire feeds the fss, the other wire branches off of the fss and goes to the temp switch, advance solinoid, and idle up solinoid.

 

I've been thinking of this also since our once quiet town has been ever increasing in crime and my truck spends it's time parked outside,

 

If you have a Manual Trans, there is the Clutch Switch.
You could run that wire to a Toggle.
I broke that goofy switch, and run a jumper wire between
the 2 contacts on the plug. Could run the Jumper wire to
a Toggle.

The Automatics also have the switch where you need to
be in Park to start. Cut the wire to it and run to a Toggle.

How about a manual cut off valve for the fuel supply line?

There use to be a valve, (I think called a Micro lock) that
was plumbed into the brake lines. Flip the lever, apply the
Brakes and it holds the brakes on..
My old 67 International was a AAA Tow truck, and it has this.
Micro lock.

https://www.google.com/search?q=brak...ih=536&dpr=1.2


Charlie

 

Ingenious. I never heard of one of those micro locks before.

To answer the OPs questions about what wire gauge to use, I suggest 12 AWG for the FSS circuit. That will be better than the OE wiring even if you use Copper Clad Aluminum wire.

Make sure you install the cutoff switch on the primary side of your starter relay. Then you can get by with using 10 or 8 AWG wire. If you wire the switch on the secondary side of the starter relay (between the relay and the solenoid on top of the starter motor) you would have to use battery cables.

 

we call them "lever lock" brake control.
than in the 90's the manual lever was replaced with an electric solenoid and the name was changed to "line lock"

 

Thanks all for this info. I'm not sure if I have a clutch switch on my manual trans (?), I only say this because I can start it without the clutch being depressed in.

I purchased 10ga for the FSS wire & 8ga for the wiring between the solenoid and starter solenoid (which I'm assuming is the primary side of the starter solenoid being referred to?).

I'm still on the fence about doing the starter solenoid switch as I can't lock in a definite amperage on the type of toggle to purchase. I'm getting numbers anywhere from 30-170amps and I'm not looking forward to a fire inside my cab because I got the wrong toggle switch.

A kill switch at an electric fuel pump would be ideal, though I have a manual pump. I also didn't want to put a switch on the ignition wire to the solenoid because anyone can easily jump that with a screwdriver. A starter solenoid wire switch just makes it a bit more time consuming. Even if they were able to push it down a hill and get it started, the FSS cut-off wouldn't allow them to get that far.

We have a serious problem with auto/truck theft here. Just trying to throw as many curve ***** as possible...

 

I'm sorry I mispoke in my original post. I'll edit it shortly.

The primary side of the starter relay is between your battery and the relay on the passenger's fender. The secondary side is between the relay and the solenoid that sits on top of the starter motor. Check it out (my daughters would be proud, I got this screen capture on my phone from one of my YT videos)!



If you put the kill switch on the primary side of the starter relay (circled) you don't have to worry about burning your truck down. You can put a multimeter in series between your batteries and the starter relay. Set it to measure DC Amps. Have a buddy start the truck and you'll see how much current your starter relay draws. Make sure the kill switch is rated above the current you read on your multimeter.

 

I would never put a battery powered wire into my
cab. If it shorted to ground, there is nothing to protect the wire from burning the truck up or overheating and blowing up the battery.

 

Well, I confused myself. Sorry.

If the OP wants to disable the ignition the best way to do it is get 2 switches and install them in series on the negative battery cables.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...itch,2380.html

Keep it Simple Stupid

 

Loving that speedway kill switch, rated for 180 amp continuous, 1000 amp instantaneous....ordering a few of them....looks like they'll get the job done.