I am starting a rebuild on a 400 and wanting opinions on camshaft selection. The engine is going in a 1977 F150 2wd. I want good low-end torque, good vacuum, good idle quality. The engine will probably never run above 4,500 RPM. I do not want to use above 91 octane fuel. The following are my engine and vehicle specifics.

• Ford 400 bored .030 over
• Tmeyer -13.3 cc pistons
• Trick Flow 195, 72cc heads
• 1.73 Roller Rockers
• Roller cam and lifters (TBD)
• Compression 9.76:1
• Edelbrock Performer 400 intake
• Edelbrock 1406 600cfm carb (I may change to the Eddy 650 AVS)
• Long tube headers
• C6 Transmission
• Hughes 1,200 RPM F43FUEL Converter
• 1977 F150 2wd, 6,300lbs
• 3.00 rearend

I received the following cam recommendations.

• Lykin Motorsports - 211/214 @.050", 111 LSA, 109 ICL, Gross Lift .562"/.588", 7.8 DCR
• Crower Cams - 205/213 @ .050", 112 LSA, Lobe Lift .287"/.301", Gross Lift .496"/.520"

There are enough differences between the two recommendations, where I am not sure which would be the best for my application. Any guidance would be appreciated.

 

Did you calculate the 9.76 compression yourself ?

The number implies a deck height of 0.006'', which is fine.

Can you post up the advertised durations for both cams, and the ICL for the Crower ?

That will help to check the DCR of 7.8 on the Lykin, and calculate the DCR of the Crower.

Assuming the Crower DCR is acceptable, I'd be inclined to choose that cam. The higher LSA and lower lift would provide a smoother idle than the Lykin, although maybe negligible.

The overall choice of parts is good.

The one thing that catches my eye is the 3.00 gear ratio. Would that be too sluggish off the line ? (I don't know.)

Make a note of this :

A cooler spark plug will be required for the increased compression. One or two numbers lower.

The total mechanical ignition timing will drop from +/-36* to +/-30* due to the more efficient combustion. (Idle timing can be as advanced as the engine likes.)

A shift kit in the C6 would be beneficial, and assuming the tranny is out, it's a breeze to fit.

I believe stock manifolds provide more torque than headers, but I've never confirmed it personally. (Headers sound nice though. )

 

The machine shop only decked the block enough to true it up. Therefore, it probably will not be zero deck height. I plan to install the crank and a piston to verify deck height and then I can accurately calculate the compression ratio. It should be close to 9.76:1. If it's much different, I may reach back out to Crower to see if that changes the cams specs.

What I listed for the cam recommendations from Lykin and Crower, is all I received. I can send both an email and see if they will provide the advertised duration, and ICL on the Crower.

I was a little concerned with that high of lift on the Lykin. I filled out cam spec request forms for Lunati and Comp Cams, but no response from either. Since the Lykin and Crower specs are different enough, I thought I better get some additional advice.

I thought about changing the rear gears, and I may eventually. However, I'm not going to be racing my truck, and with no overdrive, the 3.00 gear are nice on the highway.

I'll make note of the plugs and timing info. 👍

When I had my C6 rebuilt several years ago, a shift kit was installed at that time.

I have had the long tube headers for a long time (see pic below). However, I never liked the 5/16" flanges, and nobody makes any thick flange long tube headers for a 351M/400 2wd, so this may be a good time to change to a shorty header, like Sanderson.

 

Haha, the picture looks like you fitted the new engine yesterday already !

Fitting a piston and measuring the actual deck height is the correct way of doing things.

Fit all 8 pistons and measure all 8 deck heights.

You never know, cylinder one might be 0.006'' whereas cylinder 8 is 0.002'', for example.

If that were the case, 0.002'' would be the number required to estimate the DCR with a given cam. (0.002'' would up the compression to 9.84, for info)

I wouldn't be concerned about the higher lifts on the Lykin cam, but I would be curious. (Generally, roller cams have significantly higher lifts than the Flat tappet hydraulic cams).

You could always ask each supplier, via phone, why they chose the numbers they did, and then consider their answers.

It didn't occur to me that you already drive with 3.00 gearing.

Seeing as you are about to have more power and torque, you'll be more than happy with the existing gearing. (I'd love to have 3.00 gearing for the highways.)

I didn't realize that you have headers either. Maybe a machine shop could CNC cut preferred flanges and swap them in ?? (Nothing wrong with shorties though.)

Here's some more notes :

Piston ring gaps differ between the different materials used, so make sure to follow the instructions when gapping them.

Likewise, different honing grits are used, so ensure that the machine shop used the correct grit. (Maybe a bit late to do that now.)

Consider the stall on the torque converter. The OE level was something like 1,500rpms, and could now be raised to +/-2,400rpms. (The cam guys should be able to comment on that.)

I'd want a mechanical timing range of something like 16* - 30* to maximize performance, but I'm not sure that you can customize the Duraspark to that extent.

You can consider using fully synthetic engine oil especially as you'll have a roller cam.

Regularly check that the filter is clean in the valve cover breather, and that the pcv valve is 100%.

It looks like your vacuum advance is connected to ported, try full manifold at some point and compare.

 

Why do they want you to run extra duration on the exhaust side of the cam? That serves no real purpose in the application and I wouldn't do that if maximum torque is your goal.

 

I would just have a custom grind made for the motor.

 

My engine looks decent on the outside, but wore out on the inside. The engine in it now is a 351M out of a 78 (I think) LTD which I put in there around 1990. The original engine from the truck is the block I had machined and will be rebuilding.

I will be mocking up all pistons to verify deck height for each.

I do plan to reach back out to Lykin and Crower for additional info on the cam specs.

I will be gapping the rings per the specs on Tmeyer's site.

The machine shop wanted the rings so they could balance everything, so hopefully they utilized the correct grit for the rings.

I have not yet purchased the torque converter, so I could go with a different one if something else would better fit my application. I will see what the cam manufacturer would recommend.

I'll need to see what's doable for the factory distributor. I do not plan to change it to an HEI.

I understand roller cams do not require breaking in, but I thought it was not a good idea to utilize synthetic oil on an engine which is not broken in, due to rings not seating in correctly. Is that not correct?

I'll look into the vacuum advance port connection.

6 by 8 I appreciate all the good info.

I am not sure why they are specifying the extra duration, when I reach out to them again, I will ask.

I will be utilizing a custom grind, which is why I contacted Lykin, Crower, Lunati, and Comp so I could get their recommendations for a custom grind. The bad thing is that Crower has no blanks and may not have any until mid 2023. Lykin has only billet blanks, which I may end up with, unless I want to wait longer.

 

It took me close to a year to get a SADI core for a 408 Cleveland. Cam core and lifter availability are serious problems in the cam industry and I don't know when the situation is going to improve. Popular engines seem to be the worst really. Small block Chevy flat tappet or roller, Ford big block either FE or 385 series, Cleveland etc are all in very short supply. Earlier this year I needed a roller core for an Oldsmobile and that was easy to find as was one for a Pontiac engine.

 

The Lykin custom grind billet roller cam is $575, vs $425 for an iron cam. Since Lykin had billet cores, and once I settle on a grind, I'll probably bite the bullet and go with the billet cam. I really don't want to wait until this summer to complete the build. At this point, an additional 150 bucks for billet is not a deal breaker.

 

Keep in mind that a steel cam ties you into running either a bronze or steel distributor gear.

 

Whichever type of cam I end up with, I plan to verify with the cam manufacturer as to which distributor gear is compatible. Thanks for the input.

 

So not only is your engine a sheep in wolf's clothing, it is a 351m.

Assuming it is the OE low compression version, you're in for a very nice treat with a higher compression, correctly designed, 400.

I'm impressed that Lykin gave you a DCR number, and 7.8 would be a safe limit for using 91 octane gas. (For example, very hot weather would not induce detonation a.k.a. pinging. At 8.0, say, it might.)

Haha, no, you don't need to change to an HEI, and even they aren't that easy to get dialed in 100%.

When you start to dial in the timing curve, and 'feel' the differences in performance whilst driving, you'll know what I mean about dialing it in 100%.

Try and find the time to do a bit of reading up on the following :

Mineral versus semi-synthetic versus fully synthetic engine oil.

Duration at 0.05'' lift. (There's a reason both cam suppliers are offering you cams in the 205 - 214 range.)

Duration at 0.006'' lift, a.k.a. advertised duration (Without these figures, a cam cannot be wisely chosen. Period.)

(As an example, here's two cam specs. One would not work. But look how similar they are !

204/214 @ 0.05'' - 282/292 @ 0.006'' - LSA 112 - ICL 109 - lift whatever

204/214 @ 0.05'' - 262/272 @ 0.006'' - LSA 112 - ICL 109 - lift whatever)

Lobe separation angle (LSA). You've been offered 211 and 212. 210 and 214 would also work.

Intake centre line (ICL)

Lift

Your existing torque converter can be rebuilt by a 100% proficient professional. Hmmm, that said, they are becoming rare these days.

When you install your cam, use a dial wheel to 100% confirm that the cam timing is EXACTLY what the cam card states. (And of course the cam card must be EXACTLY the same as what you were told at the time of ordering the cam.)

Fit a new Melling, or equivalent quality, oil pump and oil pump shaft, and good quality block plugs, during the rebuild.

Consider EZ or Fumoto drain plugs for the block and C6. (Life is soooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much easier during oil changes. )

 

I would go with a comp cam 268H. Good mid range and good vacuum.

 

I received a response back from Lykins on the advertised duration and lift. He does not provide the full specs until the order is place, so someone won't take the specs and have someone else grind the cam, which I understand. He mentioned that the lift was not excessive at all and would provide good horsepower with no consequences.

From reading other timing related threads on this site, I'm sure I'll spend a lot of time getting the timing dialed in. I'll definitely use your advice for starting points.

I'll do some reading on utilizing synthetic oil for a new engine. I would prefer to use synthetic once the engine is broken in, I just need to make certain it's okay to use during break in.

I have no idea if there are any shops around my area that rebuilds converters, I would probably just buy a new one.

I will be utilizing a degree wheel for the cam.

I have a Melling standard volume pump on order, it was backordered, and is planned to ship early January.

I'll definitely look into the suggested drain plugs.

After spending a decent amount of money on an engine build, I would prefer to utilize a custom ground cam which suits my needs. I'm sure I would be happy with an off the shelf cam, but a custom grind will be better. My main concern is not ending up with pinging nightmare and having to back the timing way off.

 

To be honest, I wouldn't say that a custom grind is 'better'.

There are several off the shelf cams, available now, that would suit your needs just fine. (The above 268H wouldn't be one of them if its part number is CL32-221-3.)

That said, we've been talking about hydraulic roller cams until now. Are you totally averse to a flat tappet hydraulic cam ?

Your concern is certainly warranted, but your fact finding/opinion seeking will/should ensure that your concern never materializes.

Your desire is to have an engine that provides the torque etc as outlined in post one, but it's also to have an engine that will be mechanically trouble free for 250,000 miles (say).