brake switch stuck on
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
brake switch stuck on
I have a 1970 Bronco, manual brakes. The brake light sensing switch is attached to the brake pedal. The brake lights remain on most of the time. I can jab at the brake pedal several times and usually get it to go out. This only started a couple days ago. I have removed the switch, and it tests ok - circuit open normally, circuit closed when depressed. The spring in the switch seems to be very stiff, so it ought to be releasing itself. There are two nylon washers as indicated in the shop manual, but there is no bushing for where the brake pedal pin goes through the master cylinder actuator rod.
Any ideas? This is my daily driver and is obviously not a good situation. The switch seems good to me, so I don't want to waste time and money tracking down a part that isn't the problem. I'm not sure what to do next. Help!!
Jim
Any ideas? This is my daily driver and is obviously not a good situation. The switch seems good to me, so I don't want to waste time and money tracking down a part that isn't the problem. I'm not sure what to do next. Help!!
Jim
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,263
Likes: 0
From: N. Florida - The "No 4x4
Re: brake switch stuck on
Hi jrw429, Welcome to FTE!
I think you have about three options:
#1 - Disassemble the switch and clean it (impractical if not impossible)
#2 - Replace it.
#3 - "Rig" a return spring.
FWIW.
I think you have about three options:
#1 - Disassemble the switch and clean it (impractical if not impossible)
#2 - Replace it.
#3 - "Rig" a return spring.
FWIW.
Originally posted by jrw429
I have a 1970 Bronco, manual brakes. The brake light sensing switch is attached to the brake pedal. The brake lights remain on most of the time. I can jab at the brake pedal several times and usually get it to go out. This only started a couple days ago. I have removed the switch, and it tests ok - circuit open normally, circuit closed when depressed. The spring in the switch seems to be very stiff, so it ought to be releasing itself. There are two nylon washers as indicated in the shop manual, but there is no bushing for where the brake pedal pin goes through the master cylinder actuator rod.
Any ideas? This is my daily driver and is obviously not a good situation. The switch seems good to me, so I don't want to waste time and money tracking down a part that isn't the problem. I'm not sure what to do next. Help!!
Jim
I have a 1970 Bronco, manual brakes. The brake light sensing switch is attached to the brake pedal. The brake lights remain on most of the time. I can jab at the brake pedal several times and usually get it to go out. This only started a couple days ago. I have removed the switch, and it tests ok - circuit open normally, circuit closed when depressed. The spring in the switch seems to be very stiff, so it ought to be releasing itself. There are two nylon washers as indicated in the shop manual, but there is no bushing for where the brake pedal pin goes through the master cylinder actuator rod.
Any ideas? This is my daily driver and is obviously not a good situation. The switch seems good to me, so I don't want to waste time and money tracking down a part that isn't the problem. I'm not sure what to do next. Help!!
Jim
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville
Differential valve
Last time I ran into this it was a problem with my pressure differential valve, which is what ultimately controls that light. You may try properly bleeding the brakes or possibly replacing the valve.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: CT USA
When you say brake lights i assume you mean at the rear of the car. That is controlled by the switch you are talking about on the brake pedal. They go on occasion. Its a common part to all fords from that vintage up through the 80's. Buy a new one. Its about 5 bucks from autozone and easy to replace. Just tell them you need a brake light switch for a ford. They should know what your talking about.
If its the brake light on the dashboard then its not the switch on the break pedal. That switch is controled by the pressure valve on the brake distribution block. You can try bleeding your brakes to fix this but you might also have a leak in a line.
If its the brake light on the dashboard then its not the switch on the break pedal. That switch is controled by the pressure valve on the brake distribution block. You can try bleeding your brakes to fix this but you might also have a leak in a line.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
I had taken it off and all seemed to be working, and yet the rear brake lights were stuck on. Kicking the pedal would get the lights to go off, with some patience.
A good soaking of the switch in WD40, and about a week of regular driving, and now it works fine again. I guess something was worn funny or was getting rusty.
A good soaking of the switch in WD40, and about a week of regular driving, and now it works fine again. I guess something was worn funny or was getting rusty.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
quadrazer
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Nov 23, 2012 10:54 AM
wwwcre8r
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
3
Dec 21, 2011 09:37 AM
boosdad
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
Aug 29, 2003 10:27 AM
