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I lean more this way as well. Given availability and the potential price/cost markups, it’s still likely so much cheaper to maintain/repair/replace parts on one you’ve had that long. No guarantees in anything, obviously, but the cost to do as above (especially at an independent shop vs dealer) is most likely a significant amount less than buying another one with taxes, fees, etc.
Maybe as another poster commented, stay ahead of some preventive maintenance a little sooner and keep chugging away.
Clearly not a direct comparison, but I was in aviation in the Navy for many years. The maintenance and upgrade plans on aircraft get decades upon decades of service out of them under similar load experience as what you’re doing with your truck. Apples/oranges a bit given budgets, crews, etc., but I learned as a young aviator from many folks maintaining the planes about the value of repairing/maintaining a vehicle, even my trucks and my wife’s Expedition and old Odyssey. Heck, back then I had an early 90s Nissan Pathfinder that I finally let go with over 600k miles on it. Had a crew chief talk me into using aircraft oil in it. Interior didn’t look so hot, but that SUV never gave me any power train issues thanks to planning ahead and doing some repairs sometimes before they became an issue.
Pardon that tangent, but I’d at least get a quote from an independent shop on the various overhauls, repairs or as @Grass Lake Ron suggests a new power train. That should help inform a little more complete scenario to use in among your decision.
Like I said it's been a great truck, oil has been religiously changed every 7500 fuel filters every 15K. Run rotella 15-40 all year round. Oil samples done every 50k. Blow by test show well at 248K. DPF is still flow well also.
The problem I have a local shops, which there are several around here. (After all the delete fines from the EPA, they need the work) Is the nationwide warranty. If the truck was local to the area they'd be a different story.
Either way I have to wait till the end of the month due to budget. Jan 1, I get a fresh allocation.
Oil is cheap, if you owned a Volkswagen they would say a gallon every few thousand is normal consumption....
I would run it until you feel like it's time, then pop a new engine and 6 speed in it, and a fancy DPK. I wouldn't replace it for quite a few reasons. Downtime isn't an issue, it's only a 17', highway or highway-like mileage, you haven't had issues with it, you like the truck, vehicles are good for a long time if taken care of, you like the truck, you like the truck.
Another vote for factory reman engine and transmission if deemed necessary after engine removal. If it was a high trim level with a lot of electronics to cause problems I would say send it down the road.
The downtime isn't a issue so much, this traditionally becomes our slow time till spring. I have other 550's.
I due have a fleet of Ford vehicles, 68 of them and 37 are Super Duty 6.7s.
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That is a factor - if you can afford or work around downtime, that is a big consideration a lot of us do not the ability to enjoy. In this scenario, your calculation is much easier. Put money into and track it - get rid of it when expenses exceed the income it generates since you can essentially disregard the cost of downtime. I am talking downtime for repairs, not getting stuck on the side of the road. Any vehicle new or old can leave you stuck on the side of the road - that is just an inherent risk.
i was leaning to trade it in but i'm not even comfortable with those 10 speeds and i do like 7k a year in mine for landscape work lol. i cant imagine your mileage every year trusting in the 10 speeds.
can you order a HO crate and pair it with the 6 speed??????
Like stated at the 300k mark other things will need to be replaced soon. Wheel hubs, axle and carrier bearings and associated seals. Bushings on steering linkage and suspension, steering pressure hoses and pump. Fuel pump, transmission, etc.
On our 6.0 I lost the transmission at 246k and it was very well taken care of. I refreshed a lot of parts so I could use it reliably on a local scale, but ordered a new one as I didn't want an out of state breakdown. If blue book value is not high then maybe you can use it for local "beater" tasks. Good luck.
Your kind of stuck between a rock and a hard place. New trucks are hard as heck to find. The 6.7 long blocks and short blocks are on and will continue to be on back order. I have 5 in the shop currently just torn down and waiting for new long/short blocks to arrive lol. Your 4k idle hours ramps your total mileage up quite a bit. Ford equates 1 idle hour to 30 miles of driving so add about 120k to your total. With that said in this current parts shortage I would probably order new rings, new crank bearings, new lifters, and slap a set of heads on and go. Heads are cheap. Like 500 a side and they come loaded with new valves etc.
Sounds like you've got the spare funds to try a few things. I'd drop a reman engine and trans in the truck and see how it does. If that starts to give you fits, dump the truck and buy a new/lightly used one.
Your kind of stuck between a rock and a hard place. New trucks are hard as heck to find. The 6.7 long blocks and short blocks are on and will continue to be on back order. I have 5 in the shop currently just torn down and waiting for new long/short blocks to arrive lol. Your 4k idle hours ramps your total mileage up quite a bit. Ford equates 1 idle hour to 30 miles of driving so add about 120k to your total. With that said in this current parts shortage I would probably order new rings, new crank bearings, new lifters, and slap a set of heads on and go. Heads are cheap. Like 500 a side and they come loaded with new valves etc.
Took two months.
Over the summer, coolant was disappearing. Nothing on the ground, no leaks just disappearing.
Dropped off with Ford, said hey coolant is magically disappearing. My thought was cracked head, gasket or EGR cooler. Coolant looked good, no bubbles,etc, so EGR?
Ford said it was something else, "did repair" and get us the truck back. Week later, I loaded for a job in Texas, didn't get a 110 miles and it failed. Ford paid for the tow, (it's a loaded 24Ft box) back to our shop to be unloaded, then to theirs
Guess what, failed EGR cooler, motor locked up with only 45K on it.
No fight, no trying to get away from it. They covered it.
Over the summer, coolant was disappearing. Nothing on the ground, no leaks just disappearing.
Dropped off with Ford, said hey coolant is magically disappearing. My thought was cracked head, gasket or EGR cooler. Coolant looked good, no bubbles,etc, so EGR?
Ford said it was something else, "did repair" and get us the truck back. Week later, I loaded for a job in Texas, didn't get a 110 miles and it failed. Ford paid for the tow, (it's a loaded 24Ft box) back to our shop to be unloaded, then to theirs
Guess what, failed EGR cooler, motor locked up with only 45K on it.
No fight, no trying to get away from it. They covered it.
And this is the problem. The engine may go another 200k without a hiccup, but all the other parts won't. Getting stranded in a West Texas Summer can suck...hard.
I lean more this way as well. Given availability and the potential price/cost markups, it’s still likely so much cheaper to maintain/repair/replace parts on one you’ve had that long. No guarantees in anything, obviously, but the cost to do as above (especially at an independent shop vs dealer) is most likely a significant amount less than buying another one with taxes, fees, etc.
Maybe as another poster commented, stay ahead of some preventive maintenance a little sooner and keep chugging away.
Clearly not a direct comparison, but I was in aviation in the Navy for many years. The maintenance and upgrade plans on aircraft get decades upon decades of service out of them under similar load experience as what you’re doing with your truck. Apples/oranges a bit given budgets, crews, etc., but I learned as a young aviator from many folks maintaining the planes about the value of repairing/maintaining a vehicle, even my trucks and my wife’s Expedition and old Odyssey. Heck, back then I had an early 90s Nissan Pathfinder that I finally let go with over 600k miles on it. Had a crew chief talk me into using aircraft oil in it. Interior didn’t look so hot, but that SUV never gave me any power train issues thanks to planning ahead and doing some repairs sometimes before they became an issue.
Pardon that tangent, but I’d at least get a quote from an independent shop on the various overhauls, repairs or as @Grass Lake Ron suggests a new power train. That should help inform a little more complete scenario to use in among your decision.
Personally, I will keep my 21 till i'm dead. If it has a problem, it will get a fresh power train. The cost of these trucks are just nuts. My 78 got a rebuild in the late 80's.....Run even better then before.