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Why are you set on using calipers from another vehicle? Can’t you just order them for 74?
I don’t remember if you mentioned the reason but I’ll go back and reread your other post about it.
They look original to me, but they look different, which might make them more expensive.
Looks from here like the caliper mounting bracket is part of the steering knuckle, and so the caliper may be specific to that mounting method.
Oh, and without a doubt those need servicing.
They may be sticking simply because they’re rusted to their brackets.
The calipers need to be free to slide not only as they are used, but as the pad friction material becomes used up.
Even if you don’t go out and buy new ones, at least remove the existing ones and dress the sliding surfaces with a file, stone or sandpaper to see what improvements that makes. Then apply some brake specific grease or light dabs of anti-seize to just the sliding surface and see what happens.
If the calipers are indeed sticking internally where the pistons don’t move freely in and out of the caliper body then yes, you need new ones. But if it’s just the sliding surfaces that need addressing, do it and save yourself time and money.
I would like to replace the calipers on the front because one side is sticking and is no longer functional. If these are stock calipers (which I'm not sure), I would buy stock replacements for them. If they are not stock and I have to start from scratch to change them out, then I would be interested in which vehicle make/model/year calipers might be suitable replacements.
That's a good point about the mounting issue - that setup is new to me. Normally the ones I replace are simple bolt on from the backside
It's definitely been neglected for a while - I was hoping to wait until spring to tear into it but they didn't want to wait that long. Considering their apparent age and condition (and the fact that I am planning to restore this truck over time), I will just plan to change everything out related to the brake system.
You are right that I may be able to service those calipers and get more time out of them but I'm pretty sure the passenger side piston is sticking so I'm planning for the worst. I'm going to take it apart tonight so I can see what's going on for sure
So you don't have the hydroboost or was that standard on the F350? If you do have the hydroboost, did you swap out the power steering pump?
I would like to do the same regarding the upgrade - get parts from another vehicle whether reman/new but I don't know of a way to cross reference parts to see which vehicles are compatible with my '74 F100.
I've been away today. No, I did not use hydroboost, I used the F350 brake booster with F350 master cylinder that moves a little more fluid and I used '79 spec Thunderbird calipers that have bigger pistons the the F150 calipers, but they fit the caliper mounts. Larger caliper pistons multiply brake force higher at any given line pressure. Larger caliper pistons need more fluid, but the F350 master is sized for dual piston calipers as stock, but the T-bird caliper pistons actually are a hair larger surface area than a F350 caliper's two pistons added topgether. Result is virtually F350 stopping power. I did modify the hose inlet part of my calipers to take the F150 hoses and used the correct banjo bolts after drilling the hose end blocks.
First time I’ve heard of someone doing that mod to the calipers. Great idea!
Was it much work to do?
Easy with my Dremel tool and it's Hd cuttoff wheel.
Plugged hole, then notched it so hose ends would clock right. Stock, the Tbird calipers just have a recessed hole, didn't take a lot off. I checked to make sure I did not cut the sealing surface for the copper washers, but cut enough too.
Like this I bought banjo bolts that fit the caliper, they were a little bigger than used on a F150, so drilled the hose ends then blew clean with cleaner and high pressure air.
The T-bird calipers have steel pistons too.
F150 PHENOLIC pistons are 2-7/8" OD with 6.48 square inches,
The T-bird calipers for '79 are what Ford used on full size (heavy) cars and are 3-3/32" OD.with 7.51 square inches area.
The F350 dual piston caliper has two smaller 2-3/16" pistons each, but total area is 7.50 square inches.
The T-bird calipers fit in a 15" wheel too.
Sorry it's been a little while. Between the holiday and -30 degree temps, I put everything on hold. In the meantime I ordered new rotors, calipers, pads, inner/outer wheel bearings, wheel seal and flexible brake lines. The caliper design was new to me but I was impressed with the design in general. Here is what I did to rebuild the driver's side. Old caliper with the wheel off. Arrow points to a screw that holds a retainer in place that keeps the caliper secured. This the new retainer. It comes in two pieces that slide between the caliper and part of the steering knuckle that wraps around from the back. New caliper - you can see the cut along the side that allows it to mate with the framework around the wheel to keep it in place. New brake hose - these are side specific. The hole for the banjo bolt is offset so they are not interchangeable. The boxes were not marked so I had to determine which one would mount with the hose pointing up.
I removed the retainer with a drift and a hammer. It will slide out but not willingly. Caliper removed and set aside. Spindle cover off. Remove cotter pin, nut cover and remove nut. The outer wheel bearing is behind the washer and the rotor comes off. This is the spindle after the rotor is removed.
New rotor cleaned and ready. Inner wheel bearing greased and installed. The outer rings for both the inner and outer wheel bearings were already pressed into the rotor so I didn't need to do that. Inner wheel seal. I used a 36mm socket to tap this into place. Rotor installed with outer wheel bearing greased, washer, nut, nut cover, cotter pin and dust cover.
Side view of the rotor with where the caliper will mount. I installed the rear brake pad at this point. New caliper loaded with the front pad and brake line. New caliper set into place. I used a screw driver to create the proper gap for the retainer to slide in. You won't need to pound on it if the opening is correct. Mine dropped in about 1/2" or more just pushing with my fingers.
Great write up. Thanks very much for taking such detailed notes and pictures.
It’s good to see the knuckle and rotor and caliper with such clarity.
I was very curious about the knuckle and mount. As I mentioned earlier.
Sounds like it went together, perfectly from your description of the way that the lock and key in the spring went in.
The old ones were probably pretty stuck from lack of lubrication over the years. Sounds like the new one went in just the way it should. snug, requiring a little more than hand pressure, but not so tight that it really needs to be jammed in there. I seen some that needed to be hammered in place. Something was wrong in those cases.
If it’s that tight, the caliper won’t move either.
Sounds like yours is like Goldilocks. Just right.
Last caliper rebuild I did was around $2. It's just a quad ring or square cut Oring and a seal, I had the steel pistons though and no pits in caliper bore. Stock 78 brakes, never understood the headaches on the rear wheel disks when the stock would lock up any reasonable amount of tire. I've a lot of miles and realize they will not stop like something new, I don't tailgate. But original works fine for my use.
That's a good point and hopefully stock will work fine for me too. After I replaced the front end, I started having problems with the master cylinder and I wasn't ready to up grade to hydroboost so I ordered everything stock - master cylinder, booster and rear drum brakes. Hopefully they arrive soon (they keep pushing the delivery date back...) because I would like to drive the truck again. There are few things like driving, putting your foot on the brake pedal and having nothing happen... I was fortunate that it was giving me trouble in the driveway and not out on road with traffic.
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