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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

a win, finally

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Old Nov 22, 2022 | 04:08 PM
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a win, finally

Pretty satisfied with myself. The pick-up was sputtering like crap and backfiring. New front fuel tank and sensor which it needed as it was sucking up sludge, new fuel filter, new plugs, wires, rotor, and cap. Removed the carb (edlebrock 1406 and cleaned sludge from the floats, etc). Still ran like crap,...

It was kinda a vacuum leak. Was testing the vacuum with a cheap gauge I bought and nothing was happening when I was adjusting the carb idle screws. So, I checked underneath at the fuel tank selector as I remembered how rotten the hoses to the front tank were when I replaced. Sure enough the hose to the unused rear was sucking air. I removed the line and capped it. About 5 mins and it ran good and then really good when I tuned the carb with that gauge.
Finally, a small victory.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2022 | 09:15 PM
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You won't get it idling better than that! Congratulations
 
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Old Dec 11, 2022 | 12:16 PM
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I was wrong. It seems when I hit the gas, the little butterfly-looking piece on the driver side of the 1406 Carb just flops. You can see how the idle screw is now out of place. I am running out of patience.



New video of not really running
 
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Old Dec 11, 2022 | 12:52 PM
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"Butteryfly looking thing"...do you mean the choke plate at the top of the carb ?

Or are you talking about the linkage piece with the idle adjustment speed screw ?
 
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Old Dec 12, 2022 | 12:51 PM
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The video doesn’t show anything flopping around so at this point we are guessing.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2022 | 04:48 AM
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Hello. I'm sorry, not the choke plate, although I could see that being described in a similar way.

I am looking at the piece near the idle screw behind the accelerator linkage circled in blue. This just goes limp and stays there after giving it gas.


 
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Old Dec 13, 2022 | 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by MrDormouse
Hello. I'm sorry, not the choke plate, although I could see that being described in a similar way.

I am looking at the piece near the idle screw behind the accelerator linkage circled in blue. This just goes limp and stays there after giving it gas.

That is your fast idle cam. If you grab the choke door on top and move it back and forth, it moves that piece you are worried about correct? That makes the engine fast idle when the choke is activated. When the choke is off, that piece "flops" out of the way and the carb goes to base idle. Do you have another screw somewhere that holds the throttle? Usually there is a base idle screw and a fast idle screw. You are learning about this fast.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2022 | 06:20 AM
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Hello, yes... I am trying to learn it fast... thank you for the patience. :
Q: If you grab the choke door on top and move it back and forth, it moves that piece you are worried about correct? Yes
Q: That makes the engine fast idle when the choke is activated. When the choke is off, that piece "flops" out of the way and the carb goes to base idle. Yes, but I never see it reset to the original position
Q: Do you have another screw somewhere that holds the throttle? Usually there is a base idle screw and a fast idle screw. Yes, if I accelerate from the linkage, you can see it head-on but low on the piece. (Pic Below)

How about the setting on the electric choke? It seems to make the choke plate pretty closed and seems firmly in place when cold. (pic below)




 
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Old Dec 21, 2022 | 06:27 AM
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Update:
  1. Got idle sounding good (figured out the idle screws)... even at start-up with the choke plate at closed position (adjusted electric choke as suggested),
  2. Vacuum siting steady (as it was originally bouncing) at its highest point after adjusting the two screws on front of carb (roughly 1-1/2 turns from bottomed out),
However: Once I drive it and accelerate, it bogs down again, sputters with random backfire, like when I had that small sucking crack in the fuel hose near the fuel tank selector.
  1. ​​​​​​​Changed all rubber hoses. From carb to filter, filter to hard line that attaches to fuel pump, pump to hard line that runs along the frame, bypassed tank selector directly to front fuel tank which is the only one I am using as it is brand new along with new sending unit.
  2. Fuel tank is vented straight to outside via hose as the charcoal box is destroyed, letting water into the tanks which were filled with muck
Thank you all again
 
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Old Dec 22, 2022 | 02:17 PM
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It's to damned cold here for me to fiddle but I have cold idle close, I do still bog out on acceleration unless I let the engine warm almost completely up.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2022 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawkbox
It's to damned cold here for me to fiddle but I have cold idle close, I do still bog out on acceleration unless I let the engine warm almost completely up.
Haha, the problem is I'm in Florida
 
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Old Dec 22, 2022 | 02:40 PM
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Oh yeah, that probably isn't the same issue as getting it started in -20.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2022 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MrDormouse
Hello, yes... I am trying to learn it fast... thank you for the patience.
Have you tried setting it up according to the instructions? That should get you in the ballpark.

Originally Posted by Hawkbox
It's to damned cold here for me to fiddle but I have cold idle close, I do still bog out on acceleration unless I let the engine warm almost completely up.
Sounds like a choke issue
 
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Old Apr 21, 2023 | 07:00 AM
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Update - So, after changing everything in line to the carb, I pulled it again, soaked in Oil Eater (don't care about the finish, just wiped it off later) and so much more crap came out of it. I don't even know how/where from. Anyway, it's running well now.
To be cont...
 
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