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I thought I would quickly share my first experience with death wobble on these trucks. I am VERY familiar with death wobble as I own two Jeeps. My father in laws 2017 F250 is completely stock and he told me the death wobble was extreme. After inspecting every component in the front end while stationary, and using my go pro while driving (well, riding in it), everything looked good. At least I couldn't find anything allowing more travel than anything on my 2018. While inspecting the brakes I found the outer pads were all but done so I figured I would replace them while I had them off. I took both rotors in to be turned. Both were warped but the passenger side was able to be turned true. After replacing the rotors and pads this thing drives like a dream. Before I replaced the parts, I was able to get the truck to go full on death wobble by moderate braking. She's great now. I've had warped rotors before but never had them cause death wobble. Just thought I would share. BTW, yes, I did grease the slide pins
The death wobble described by many here on this forum is a bit different. Typically the oscillation doesn't involve the brakes at all, and in fact only becomes controllable by braking and slowing the truck down.
I should describe it a little better I guess. With moderate braking at around 40 mph I could get the truck to go into full death wobble. Not just a slight wobble in the steering wheel due to warped rotors. Somehow warped rotors, moderate braking and 40 mph was the perfect combination to set this truck off down the wobbly road of death.
Death wobble can be infuriating to diagnose. On one of my jeeps every single suspension/steering component can be brand new and a set of train tracks at 45 mph will set it off. The moral of this short story kids is don't overlook your rotors if you are fighting death wobble.
All that means is the humped rotors were setting the DW off. They are not the cause of the DW, but the trigger TOO the DW. Hit a hard enough bump and it will happen again. It's the play in all the joints that adds up to the oscillations that happen during an event.
All that means is the humped rotors were setting the DW off. They are not the cause of the DW, but the trigger TOO the DW. Hit a hard enough bump and it will happen again. It's the play in all the joints that adds up to the oscillations that happen during an event.
Congratulations on getting it fixed up, but honestly if you had the real death wobble it’s not fixed.
The real death wobble if it was the real one will get you yet and you will instantly know it.
I have had it and there is not controlling the truck period. All you can do is hang on and turn the wheel
the way you want and hope the truck follows. Anything on the dash and seats will no longer be there
your brakes do not work and potentially will increase the wobble.
Something as simple as a bridge joint on an angle to the road way or the rumble strip will trigger it.
Believe me brother, I understand what death wobble is. I just got back from a deployment and my jeep was chained to my trailer for 14 months. Somehow it re-developed death wobble while doing nothing that entire time. At 35mph over a very smooth canal near my house it sets off every time. So severely I'm surprised it hasnt broken anything. Friday I bit the bullet and installed a Core 4X4 track bar. Thing is massive! Helped but didn't stop the death wobble on the Jeep. As you know almost anything in the front end can cause it. Heck, I've read where people solved theirs by fixing something that was out of wack in the rear end.
This truck, this time, it was the brakes triggering it. I fully agree with you gents there may be something else amiss, but I am not going to replace joints and bushings that otherwise look like they are performing like they should if the brakes cured it, for now. I've replaced everything in a front end with quality parts before and still had it occur.
A few months ago I was chasing the DW on my '17 350 DRW with about 95K on it. Over the summer I did Bilsteins all around and a drag link and sulastics when I had it on the rack to put airbags in. Really smoothed it out...but started getting DW precursor again. Brakes were suspect and rotors which only had about 25K on them were warped, so I did those along with a new stablizer and alignment with 2 new front tires. Things were smooth for a while, but I think the shop botched the alignment / didn't tighten something, because after about 10K of all highway miles, DW came back...noticed on one of my long hauls that the very new front tires were crowned. Put it back on the rack and the alignment was way out...toe was botched. At that juncture I opted for the caster shims to add a few degrees of positive caster along with another set of front tires and another alignment (which now shows out of spec because we pumped up the caster...there is a lot of info on positive caster out there...the physics make sense). It made the steering a tad heavier but really set the angle enough that the DW has not come back....but I am still not 100% convinced. I'm sure at some point I'm going to go for all of the linkages in the front end.
You repaired your warped rotors, not death wobble. If you have had death wobble in this truck you need to begin inspecting front end components. I repaired mine by installing a PMF adjustable track bar & throwing the junk OEM track bar in the scrap metal.
A few months ago I was chasing the DW on my '17 350 DRW with about 95K on it. Over the summer I did Bilsteins all around and a drag link and sulastics when I had it on the rack to put airbags in. Really smoothed it out...but started getting DW precursor again. Brakes were suspect and rotors which only had about 25K on them were warped, so I did those along with a new stablizer and alignment with 2 new front tires. Things were smooth for a while, but I think the shop botched the alignment / didn't tighten something, because after about 10K of all highway miles, DW came back...noticed on one of my long hauls that the very new front tires were crowned. Put it back on the rack and the alignment was way out...toe was botched. At that juncture I opted for the caster shims to add a few degrees of positive caster along with another set of front tires and another alignment (which now shows out of spec because we pumped up the caster...there is a lot of info on positive caster out there...the physics make sense). It made the steering a tad heavier but really set the angle enough that the DW has not come back....but I am still not 100% convinced. I'm sure at some point I'm going to go for all of the linkages in the front end.
It’s interesting to hear after all of the aftermarket products (drag link, new stabilizer, etc.), many of which are marketed to stop DW, didn’t work. I get the impression that many people think you strap on a dual steering stabilizer and you’re all set. In reality it sounds complicated without a one size fits all solution.
OP, glad to hear the brakes seemed to reduce or stop the DW. Hopefully it won’t come back on ya.
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