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So I’ve been trying to get the slop out of my shifter. I replaced the plastic bushings with no luck. Today I pulled the shift detent and am not sure how you tell if it’s bad or wore out. The nut was slightly loose and when I tightened it up it seemed to help slightly. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
Not familiar with the specifics of the ZF6 design, but the strength necessary for the detent to work properly should be significant behind that ball bearing assembly. The ball bearing should be able to be depressed, but with quite a bit of force. It needs to be strong to be able to give the "feel" of resistance between the 1-2, 3-4 shift gates.
I searched a bit and was unable to find a definitive answer on whether or not that space is supposed to have a retaining pin or any sort of pin in it. I will look a bit more if I get the chance later if you have not discovered the answer.
I started a thread thinking I had a shifter problem. I was pretty sure when I pulled it apart, the little nylon bushings in the shifter would be the culprit. Aaaaaaand nope, they’re fine.
So, doing a little internet swimming I learn about detent. Something I’ve always felt in a trans, but had no idea what to call it. Anyhow, my trans has no detent at all. And just to add insult to injury, I can’t get into 1st, reverse, or 6th. I can feel my way into 2,3,4,and 5th gears, but this issue keeps me from being able to drive the truck. Thankfully we have an F150 that can do the bulk of the truck duties here, but there’s a few things it can’t do and I need my diesel!
I’m reaching out in hopes that someone can guide me in the right direction to fix this. Also, this trans is a fresh rebuild w/ less than 1000 miles on it, but it’s timed out of warranty.
I am not sure what you are asking for help with if it is not R&R'ing the detent. There is some information in the previous posts about the detent and even some drawings and instructions from the service manual in post #4.
If these are not of help to you, let us know and we will try to help you from there.
I suppose I was hoping someone would say, Yeah I know exactly what the problem is. The detent spring did this, and here’s why you can’t get into those gears.
I still have my old ZF6, so I’ll rob it for parts as needed. I really hope I don’t have to drop that trans.
I suppose I was hoping someone would say, Yeah I know exactly what the problem is. The detent spring did this, and here’s why you can’t get into those gears.
I still have my old ZF6, so I’ll rob it for parts as needed. I really hope I don’t have to drop that trans.
Happy New Year gents, and cheers!
I see...
In the second link I provided in post #4 on 11/21/22 you will find some instructions snipped from the Ford Service Manual if you decide to tackle the detent. I have provided it below again so that you don't need to scroll up 6 posts.
If you want more detailed instructions, I provide them for full disassembly and reassembly of the entire transmission.
Happy new year, try your fix action since you have a spare and it only takes a few minutes. Let us know if it works or not and we can go from there.
Does one need this special tool to remove the detent spring?
The rail detent springs pop out after cups removed. Then a narrow puller needed to take out the detents but after shifting through all gears with out springs, they are moved out of the way ready for case to be split. These keep the synchros in place by holding the shift rails in position after shift lever is moved. You can feel the slight bump in shifter after gating for gear selection when the synchro snaps in after meshing fully.
Main detent is what gives the gate feel. The ball or bushing gets stuck once dirt gets in there from the shift boot. If bushing sticks, you loose gate feel. If a flat spot develops and you lose some gate feel and gets worse over time.
I suspect your reverse interlock was forced amd bent something internally so neither gear can be engaged.
I feel the more I learn about this the more I realize it’s more than I’m capable of handling. I’m going to look for a manual trans specialist in my area and see about getting it or my old trans fixed.
It’s been three years of trans issues, and I’ve had my fill of it. I want to enjoy the truck, not worry about it.
I'm guessing you live in S. California? This may not be much help, but when I had a repair shop in Seattle before I retired I worked with someone who I came to be able to trust through all the conversations and financial transactions that I went through with him. He may know someone in your local area to go to. Or you could ship your transmission to him and have him fix it if you want. Half the time, the owner, Mark will answer the phone. He fixed so many of my customer's transmissions, and stood behind his work, that I've lost count. https://generaltransmission.com/index.html
I feel the more I learn about this the more I realize it’s more than I’m capable of handling. I’m going to look for a manual trans specialist in my area and see about getting it or my old trans fixed.
It’s been three years of trans issues, and I’ve had my fill of it. I want to enjoy the truck, not worry about it.
I spent 2 months rebuilding mine. 2 kids going to College and a single parent
this part delayed assy
this plug dont fit
this part delayed assy
this puller not long enough
this part delayed assy
this puller not narrow enough
this part delayed assy
this puller not wide enough
this part delayed assy
this puller hits that
this part delayed assy
oops I pushed that rear seal in too far and have to take it all apart again?
this part delayed assy
was it worth it? money wise yes, time no, learning yes
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