Recharging problem
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Recharging problem
Long story short a guy cut wires in my dash and totally sabotaged my truck. The truck wouldnt even run about 7 fuses were blown and the truck wouldnt even crank over or start up. I fixed all of the problems except for the fact that now my alternator will not charge my truck at all. I changed the alternator and that didnt even fix the problem. I just want to know how the changing system works on this truck 1986 Ford F250 460 engine. I also would like to know what all things the wires go to from the alternator to the battery? If someone could send me some diagrams I would highly appreciate it. I got the truck to run but it only runs off the battery I did do the multimeter tests to confirm the alternator is not charging. Any advise is appreciated.
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The diagram in the previous post shows you to have the first internal regulator alternator system, the 2G. The two black/orange wires are the output wires. The yellow/white wire is the feedback voltage monitor wire that the internal regulator uses to know how much to throttle the alternator output. The white/black is the stator output used to operate the choke. It's optional if you have a different choke system. The lightgreen/red is a very important wire, which may have been ruined in your dash re-wire. This wire comes from the keyswitch and brings the alternator online to charge when the key is turned to on. When you turn the key, this wire should have 12v on it. If it doesn't, then the alternator will not charge. You can make a temp jumper and jump it to the battery + to see if the alternator will start to charge. But when the truck is sitting, this wire needs zero volts so the alternator will not run the battery down while the truck is off.
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Update
So I did find the orange black wires were unplugged I plugged them in and it still didnt charge. I did not spend a whole lot of time looking. I maybe spent 30 mins. When this truck was vandalized there was a bunch of bulbs that blew. My question for you is if that voltameter bulb is blown by theory could that prevent the truck from charging?
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p
So I did find the orange black wires were unplugged I plugged them in and it still didnt charge. I did not spend a whole lot of time looking. I maybe spent 30 mins. When this truck was vandalized there was a bunch of bulbs that blew. My question for you is if that voltameter bulb is blown by theory could that prevent the truck from charging?
So I did find the orange black wires were unplugged I plugged them in and it still didnt charge. I did not spend a whole lot of time looking. I maybe spent 30 mins. When this truck was vandalized there was a bunch of bulbs that blew. My question for you is if that voltameter bulb is blown by theory could that prevent the truck from charging?
What you need to do is get a testlight and start poking around at the alternator. Clip the ground of the testlight to the battery, and then with the key in run, engine off, see if you have 12v on the lightgreen/red wire. On the yellow wire you should have 12v no matter if the key is on or off. Same with the two fat black/orange wires, they should have power all the time, the testlight should light if you poke the plug at the alternator.
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Your charging system does not depend on a cluster bulb for operation. If you had a idiot "gen" light it would, but you have a voltmeter and the diagram shows a direct connection from the key through splice 401, to the alternator.
What you need to do is get a testlight and start poking around at the alternator. Clip the ground of the testlight to the battery, and then with the key in run, engine off, see if you have 12v on the lightgreen/red wire. On the yellow wire you should have 12v no matter if the key is on or off. Same with the two fat black/orange wires, they should have power all the time, the testlight should light if you poke the plug at the alternator.
What you need to do is get a testlight and start poking around at the alternator. Clip the ground of the testlight to the battery, and then with the key in run, engine off, see if you have 12v on the lightgreen/red wire. On the yellow wire you should have 12v no matter if the key is on or off. Same with the two fat black/orange wires, they should have power all the time, the testlight should light if you poke the plug at the alternator.
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Update
Green wire with red stripe had 12 volts on 0 volts off. Yellow wire had 12 volts all time and orange wires had 0 volts
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The fat black/orange stripe wires have zero volts? That's not good. Those are the output wires, they should go to a splice and end up at the starter solenoid battery + connection.
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I would unwrap those wires from the harness. The diagram shows both wires leaving the alternator and going up to a splice S204. Turns into one black/orange wire that then hits another splice S202. It then goes to another splice, S203 ad then to the large bolt connection on the solenoid which is the battery +.
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Update
I would unwrap those wires from the harness. The diagram shows both wires leaving the alternator and going up to a splice S204. Turns into one black/orange wire that then hits another splice S202. It then goes to another splice, S203 ad then to the large bolt connection on the solenoid which is the battery +.
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From: Virginia
We are not at the fuse box we are at the alternator correct? Those two fat wires leaving the alternator have no power correct? They lead up to the starter relay. That is where they get power. That is where the alternator charges the battery.
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Maybe there is a misunderstanding
Dd
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or your talking about this one