I am willing to try this 3G alternator.

 

As said this is painful and I have not read every post but on page 5 and still nothing hurts.

So if you put 12 volts to the field on the ALT bypassing the REG it dose not put out full volts?
I thought this was a test on ALT's to see if it was good or a bad REG?
this way you are removing everything but the ALT..

Good luck on the 3G
Dave ----

 

He has no field wire exposed. The field wire is internal, he has the type with the regulator built onto the alternator.

 

There is a way to do a "full field test" on a alternator will an attached Internal voltage regulator. If you look closely on the regulator you with see instructions. This a brief short test to drive the voltage output to max voltage. It still requires good bushes in the voltage regulator. See photo below.
This is not something you should have to do with a new ALT.
.

 

I was going to say there had to be a way to test.
It may not be easy when mounted on the motor like the old ones were.

Is there a stud that is in that hole you short to ground?
I have not messed with ALT's all that much maybe enough to let out the magic smoke
Dave ----

 

Back in post 26 there's a link to another 2G thread. The second post in this thread has another photo that shows the regulator installed. It has a screw in the hole.
Jim

 

It looked like that hole was another screw hole to hole the regulator to the case and would be grounded to start with.
Thanks
Dave ----

 

Well that is something interesting the thread starter can do. Put a ring terminal under that screw with a piece of wire on it, and get the engine started, and with all the wires off the battery, except the large ones, he could ground that wire to the neg of the battery and see what voltage he gets on the battery.

If Jonny is not too frustrated, he could keep testing. What is he going to do if he puts a 3G on it and it doesn't work either?

 

If that happens I can see a truck for sale that had a fire
I hope not and the 3G works
Dave ----

 

I don't think that screw is supposed to come out. The arrow points to a ground point. You would just briefly ground it with a piece of wire.
To preform this test the 3 wire plug would need to be installed and wired correctly. The larger yellow wire, besides being the sence for voltage regulation, is the power source for the field current. The voltage regulator uses the ground side of the circuit, after the current exits the rotor.
The power output wires would not need to be connected to anything. When you grounded test point the voltage would jump from 14 volts to over 16 plus volts.
This is the same for a 3G ALT.
Jim

 

The photo in post 64 does not show the brush block attached to the back side of the voltage regulator. The brushes attach to the open holes. You use a torque lock bit to remove the 4 mounting screws to access the brush block.
Jim

 

I have calmed down but I am taking a break from the truck right now. My old boss is wanting to come over and my brother is wanting to take on the job. So there is 2 people in the mean time I am assembling my 1970 Dodge Charger and going to do other stuff in the mean time. I appreciate the help/support and as for Fuzzface what John Mclane from Diehard said Welcome to the party pal. Lol good ideas guys either way if I get time or my brother/old boss comes over and we do get this charging by even the bypass I think that is going to solve the altimate problem. This truck though is cursed I am not joking its so cursed its not even funny. I am just dumbfounded that someone could fubar a truck to this point. Its just so weird like with the Eclipse and the charger I never had any run arounds like this truck. You guys should of saw this foreign car I mean I litterly bought it in pieces. The guy had different color wires on it for these aftermarket gauges I mean it was like a switchboard from hell. My brother even made that comment tonight he was like that car was a huge electrical nightmare but you fixed everything within a couple of months. Why is 1 wiring problem on a stock 1986 ford truck such a brainstorm. If I can figure out why its not charging I will definitely let you guys know what it was for sure. Maybe we will all learn something here.

 

I hear you on the need to walk away for a bit and do something else.
Hope that goes better and if not can't go worst right LOL
Dave ----

 

After making a muscle car masterpiece aka the 70 charger is almost assembled. I decided to check something out that my uncle told me on the Ford. I said uncle Don do you have any ideas why this could not be charging he said well in some cases a bad amp meter could possibly cause it. I said I really didnt pay any attention to the amp meter while doung these tests but I went out to the truck the other day and it was showing over half. I said thats weird I havent started this thing in 3 months and its been really cold. I opened the hood and there wasnt even a battery? Then I remembered after taking a break I took the battery in the barn and I charged it up. I then put it on the truck and it read the exact same as it did without the battery!!! My question for you guys is A. Would a bad amp meter not allow it to charge and B why is it reading exactly the same with or without the battery?

 

I don't think the amp meter would have any effect.