I think you must have missed the fact that he is over the rear GAWR, meaning at or near the max tire capacity. That isn't going to change with nore payload capacity. It looks like a DRW might be what he needs to consider, with whatever engine choice he prefers.

The LB version of his exact truck would also give him near 4k payload, but doesn't change the rear GAWR either.

 

I didnt miss anything. Your comment assumes both trucks have identical weights over the rear end.

 

My 2023 CCLB SRW Limited i have on order has a 12,400# GVWR. Thats 900# more than the 2016 at 11,500# i have now.

My contention is still that the OP may need to go through his trailer, and lighten the load a bit anyway, since at max GVWR. We camp a lot. My wife tends to bring more than we need. Every year, we go through the rig at the end of the season, and take out (permanently) items that didnt get used at all or very little. Pots, pans, dishes, blah blah blah... all add up.

OP's rig is pin heavy. He hasn't shared what floor plan he has, but rearranging what can be rearranged further back, behind the wheels will fix the truck payload problem. Maybe the OP is trying to convince his better half he needs a new truck, in which case, I can relate to that....

 

My 2 cents on a dually (if you want diesel) is 450 all the way. It will be stouter and maneuver SO much better. IMO it does not give up any payload capacity, and likely is more capable than the 350, but yes, on paper Ford is forced to show less payload to keep it a class III truck; the stouter components (un-sprung weight at that) simply make it a heavier weight with the same class III upper limit. At least for mine, the ride is surprisingly good, and I run the fronts at 90psi and rears at 85. I added the centramatics, AND I drive it reasonably especially through turns and at 23k my tires look as good as when new. I tow my stock trailer but not crazy weights - a few brood cows and calves usually.

Heck, I might even make a deal with ya. I probably have too much truck LOL. King Ranch and the massage seats would be really nice on that trek to Alaska

 

Your pin weight is too high. If the trailer was at GVRW, 3600lbs pin weight would be 24% when 18-20 should fine.
The W/D is probably more weight and hassle than it's worth. A lot of people that get them don't use them. Better to spend some time at laundromat with big machines. A lot of rv parks have them on site. The dishwasher probably doesn't weight much but more useful for storage.

How about going with a Reese Goosebox and getting that super heavy hitch out of your bed?

 

The F350 vs. 450 thing has been done to death so I'm not going to get into it again; EITHER DRW truck will handle his load just fine - a SRW won't.

Dave

 

This cannot be said in simpler terms than this! Excellent value to this post.

 

He doesn't have a "super heavy" hitch in the bed, said he has an Andersen, and they are "super light", lift it with one hand.

 

Sorry, missed that. Still needs to reduce that pin weight.

 

I was thinking the same thing with putting the generator on the back of the camper too

 

Like others, I am a little hung up on that high pin weight. If it is correct and cannot be reduced significantly, I would go with a DRW. If it can be considerably lower, I would stick with your SRW.

I know plenty of people that handle those high pin weights with SRW's without incident. Sticker ratings on doors have too many factors beyond engineering for me to get too concerned about them. Tire ratings are mostly engineering based. I try very hard not to be too close to my tire limits. You could go gasser and/or long bed, but you will likely still be right at the very top of your tire ratings

A lot of people are worried about the hassles of a DRW. The old adage I heard growing up was nothing better when you are towing than a dually.... and nothing worse when you are not. But in reality, to me there is little difference between an SRW and DRW, if both are long beds.

After decades of very successful heavy towing with SRW's, I made the move to a 350 DRW. Very big improvement. Then years later to a 450. Another big improvement.

It sounds like you will be towing a lot. Long distances and long hours with that 5ver behind you will be way more comfortable and relaxing with a DRW. They just drive a ton better towing. And for unloaded driving, you get used to them very fast. if you are not dealing with a lot of small parking lots/garages, or narrow inner city streets, a DRW is plenty manageable.

As far as 350 vs 450, do a search here, and you will find plenty of arguing with plenty of 'misinformation'. But my recommendation would be find a way somehow to drive both. If you do, my bet is you go 450.

Good luck!

 

I don't know where the notion of the long bed having a higher load capacity came from, long bed weighs more and if the truck is the same GVWR then the long bed will have a lower load capacity, not higher.

That high pin weight is the kicker though, and adding a generator and other storage accessories talked about for the front compartments, will only make that weight higher. Having that much excess pin weight is not just a consideration for the load capacity of the truck, but also a handling consideration, that extra weight will want to keep going straight even when turning, making a push situation. OP needs to figure out how to move some of that weight back, even to the point of getting it behind the trailer axles. Just getting a dually or bigger truck is not the ultimate answer for safe towing, proper weight distribution is just as important.

 

I grossed over 27,000lbs from TN to Alaska and back with a DRW and couldn't tell the trailer was behind me most of the time. I have a 6,033lb payload on that truck and I was using about 5,000lbs of that. I have a 4,000lb tongue weight and there is no way around it with my 5th wheel so I knew I would be more comfortable with a DRW.
My wife who has never towed anything other than my 20ft trailer loaded to 11k lbs behind my OBS ford with a manual trans jumped behind the wheel and drove the 5th wheel without any issues for thousands of miles. A DRW whether gas or diesel will take the white out of your knuckles even in some 30mph crosswinds and a DRW has a 48 gallon tank vs a 34 with the short bed. Driving to Alaska I had a stack of fuel receipts in my center console so the least amount of fuel stops the better. Especially when in some areas where the fuel converted to $9.31/gal Canadian.
I would try to find a DRW and see if you can do a trade straight across or make money on your current truck.

 

Get some 18 inch Method HD wheels and 295/70/18 129 rated tires. Adjust some stuff in the trailer to get the pin down.

I wouldn’t go through the hassle of buying something else.

 

My first thought as well.

Is the trailer level? I could see it if the trailer was nose down.

Next time you scale try to split the trailer axles between pads so you can get an idea of what each trailer axle is carrying. If you are nose down you will put more weight on your trailers front axle and that might be overloaded.