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Last week I noticed my auto locking hubs on my 2012 F-250 weren't working. It's been to cold here in Montana to try to do any diagnostics until the other day when if got above freezing, that day I thought I'd start looking things over. The first thing I did was to test the vacuum solenoid to make sure it was operating properly by using a vacuum gauge, and it tested out fine. Fearing the worst I began worrying that it might be bad hub seals, I decided to take a look under the truck at the vacuum lines, they looked fine, but when I grabbed them, they were actually broken on both sides where they attached to the hubs. I took the old lines off and replaced them with some new vacuum hose and tried them out and now they're working just fine, which is a relief, as I was concerned of the work, and expense to replace the seals. So glad it was an easy fix of some old brittle vacuum lines. So if you're having problems with your auto hubs, check your vacuum lines real well, visually they could look ok until you pull on them.
If you're in a tight spot and the automatic hubs won't lock, you can always manually lock the hubs. ( Unless you threw on a set of wheels that don't have cutouts for the front hubs).
If you're in a tight spot and the automatic hubs won't lock, you can always manually lock the hubs. ( Unless you threw on a set of wheels that don't have cutouts for the front hubs).
Yes, I realize that, and that's what I had to do in the interim to get in and out of my place, but I don't like jumping in and out of the truck to lock/unlock them, and I don't like leaving them manually locked in because of the reduced gas milage. But at least with the manual hubs, I was able to get out on my road, where that wasn't possible in two wheel drive. But now that they're working, alls I have to do is flip a switch. And thankfully it was an easy fix.
Well what do you know, another person from Billings. Howdy I see you ride Harleys also, I'm a member of the Roaddogs I.R.O. if you ride I'm sure you've heard of us.
I don't rely on it, it's just good to have so I don't have to leave the hubs locked in all the time, which reduces your gas mileage.
It doesn't reduce mine at all, it only takes 3-4 ft lbs of torque to freely rotate the front drive shaft, carrier, and axleshafts, something that you shouldn't even notice.
It doesn't reduce mine at all, it only takes 3-4 ft lbs of torque to freely rotate the front drive shaft, carrier, and axleshafts, something that you shouldn't even notice.
Well it's just that more metal your wheels have to turn, so I disagree that it doesn't affect your milage, though it maybe minimal, it's still does, and thanks to Biden I need all the help I can get with milage. In the interim before I fixed it, and I was running with the manual hubs, I saw a 0.1 mpg decrease in milage, since fixing them I gained the 0.1 mpg back.
Well what do you know, another person from Billings. Howdy I see you ride Harleys also, I'm a member of the Roaddogs I.R.O. if you ride I'm sure you've heard of us.
In case anyones wondering the location of the vacuum lines I replaced, I thought I'd do a follow up and add a couple photos. Like I mentioned initially on the visual inspection they looked fine, but when I grabbed them they were clearly broken. These photos show the new lines attached.
This is the drivers side one.
This is the passenger side
Prior to replacing them, I tested the vacuum solenoid valve to make sure it was functional. The location of the valve on my 2012 F-250 with the 6.2L gas engine is on top of the passenger side radiator (diesel engines are different) This shows the location of the valve, to test pull the top vacuum line off, connect a vacuum gauge, and turn the four wheel drive switch to 4X4 and if it's working, you should show good vacuum.
I see you ride Harleys also, I'm a member of the Roaddogs I.R.O. if you ride I'm sure you've heard of us.
