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Dealer called and the oil scan had some metal contamination so another words it got dusted. At this point, the engine hasn’t failed so nothing can be done on warranty. I knew it was dusted which is why I did the scan. I just changed the oil 3 times in a 100 miles to flush it. If it makes it to 5k this interval, I’ll pull another sample. I just drive the **** out of it and keep spare filters under the back seat. Hope Ford offers volume discount on air filters 😁
In my opinion the Doc's filters are identical to the Motorcraft ones, at least in this specific application, and they're normally about $38 vs the $48 for Motorcraft. With black Friday sales right now they're $32. I have no comments on any of their other filters because I haven't seen them but I thought about getting some to cut open.
I know exactly what you mean about filtration on AG equipment and you're absolutely right these 6.7s are not filtered to that standard. The 6.0 had maybe the best filtration ever put on a road vehicle, it's a shame they didn't stick with that huge Donaldson. I have no idea why the 20 moved the filter and battery around. It might be possible to retrofit?
Yesterday at lunch my cousin was here with his ‘19. We looked under the hood at both his and mine and agree, I’m pretty sure I’m going to my dealer today and ordering all components necessary to install a ‘19 air box and battery relocation. He popped his filter out in maybe 10 seconds. I’m so pissed at ford. This is absolutely stupid. I thought maybe they added some engine components that forced them to the panel filter but no. Engineers are probably some of the smartest idiots I know of. Only reasoning I can think of is Ford wasn’t selling enough air filters for the 6.7. They damn sure solved that issue but they are probably going to be buying me an engine because of it. This is just BS
Yesterday at lunch my cousin was here with his ‘19. We looked under the hood at both his and mine and agree, I’m pretty sure I’m going to my dealer today and ordering all components necessary to install a ‘19 air box and battery relocation. He popped his filter out in maybe 10 seconds. I’m so pissed at ford. This is absolutely stupid. I thought maybe they added some engine components that forced them to the panel filter but no. Engineers are probably some of the smartest idiots I know of. Only reasoning I can think of is Ford wasn’t selling enough air filters for the 6.7. They damn sure solved that issue but they are probably going to be buying me an engine because of it. This is just BS
Follow up if you do. I'd be interested to know if it's straight forward or if you run in to anything. I was pretty surprised as well when I first opened the hood on mine as well.
Dealer called and the oil scan had some metal contamination so another words it got dusted. At this point, the engine hasn’t failed so nothing can be done on warranty. I knew it was dusted which is why I did the scan. I just changed the oil 3 times in a 100 miles to flush it. If it makes it to 5k this interval, I’ll pull another sample. I just drive the **** out of it and keep spare filters under the back seat. Hope Ford offers volume discount on air filters 😁
From looking into this before and what Blackstone has said in the past, was the silicone content high as well? That's what I thought gets high when dust makes it past the air filter...
Yesterday at lunch my cousin was here with his ‘19. We looked under the hood at both his and mine and agree, I’m pretty sure I’m going to my dealer today and ordering all components necessary to install a ‘19 air box and battery relocation. He popped his filter out in maybe 10 seconds. I’m so pissed at ford. This is absolutely stupid. I thought maybe they added some engine components that forced them to the panel filter but no. Engineers are probably some of the smartest idiots I know of. Only reasoning I can think of is Ford wasn’t selling enough air filters for the 6.7. They damn sure solved that issue but they are probably going to be buying me an engine because of it. This is just BS
I don't know what you're taking about. I just went and popped mine out. Took 20 seconds, you have to muscle the corner of the box out, but that takes about a whopping extra 2 seconds. it's not hard.
From looking into this before and what Blackstone has said in the past, was the silicone content high as well? That's what I thought gets high when dust makes it past the air filter...
Silicone can be from dirt or from sealers used in engine assembly. For the first several oil changes, silicone and wear metals are high as the engine breaks in and flushes out. Silicone numbers well beyond 20-30 + are normal, especially if it is the first oil change.
OP - you have a '22 - what miles/hours do you have and can you post the analysis report? Is this the first oil change? You could have high silicone and metal but from break-in. The oil analysis cannot differentiate between silicon from dirt and silicon from sealers - the interpretation is silicone with wear metals - if silicone shoots up and wear metals do at the same time, then it is dirt. You see this when you do an upper oil pan - if you do an oil analysis after, silicone will be high but wear metal should still be in normal range.
Great idea to do analysis and watch the trends but caution on writing the engine off with high numbers if it is still new. Did you pull intake tube at throttle plate to see if dirt was on it - if you sucked dirt in, you would find it on that plate.
Farm equipment doesn’t have “pre filtersâ€. They have inner and outer so 2 separate filters. The larger primary filter installs over the secondary (inner or safety filter). Even our new tractors with these flat panel type filters also have a secondary flat inner filter behind the main. Anything gets past the primary the secondary “should†catch. My Ford filter has a foam pre filter affixed to the paper element already. I understand your point, I do but Ford is far from protected compared to AG equipment and the farm equipment’s environment is exactly where my truck lives. Our trucks are just merely….asphalt princesses
Correct, another thing farm equipment has is a vac line from the filter housing to the exhaust. This siphons off the course dirt and blows it out the exhaust pipe.
Question -- Ordered a K&N for the OEM airbox and was looking into the white foam prefilter on the OEM. Understand snow/rain purpose and how diesel need more flow so draw from top is offered if get blocked. Do I need pre-filter type foam element on the K&N or just go with it as is?
Tow rig, not ag use. Can be in any weather although based in the south (lots of rain). Always used K&N as quality product but they do not offer a prefilter and do not want to mess up this motor. Not doing for pure horsepower as that would be a side benefit. If I wasted the money, so be it, and will stay stock or Doc's.
If you don't want to mess the motor up, don't run that filter. Oiled fabric filters do not filter well.
As far as side benefit, that isn't even there. Diesels aren't like gas engines that only work in a very narrow air/fuel range. The gas engine's delicate AFR is why you must add air before you can add any more fuel to make power, and if air gets added there must be compensation with more fuel so it doesn't run lean and damage the engine. This requirement to compensate air mass with fuel mass is why things like K&N make power on a gas engine. Diesels don't run like this and don't do this. Diesels will happily run very rich or very lean, they are always 100% "wide open throttle" on the air intake side. There's no need to automatically compensate more air with more fuel because of a little less pressure drop from an air filter change. Power and mileage won't go up, but the amount of grit sandblasting your turbo impeller spinning at 100,000 RPM will.
For a diesel, when you need to start thinking about changes to allow more air for the intake is when you're having trouble managing EGTs for the power you're making.
If you don't want to mess the motor up, don't run that filter. Oiled fabric filters do not filter well.
As far as side benefit, that isn't even there. Diesels aren't like gas engines that only work in a very narrow air/fuel range. The gas engine's delicate AFR is why you must add air before you can add any more fuel to make power, and if air gets added there must be compensation with more fuel so it doesn't run lean and damage the engine. This requirement to compensate air mass with fuel mass is why things like K&N make power on a gas engine. Diesels don't run like this and don't do this. Diesels will happily run very rich or very lean, they are always 100% "wide open throttle" on the air intake side. There's no need to automatically compensate more air with more fuel because of a little less pressure drop from an air filter change. Power and mileage won't go up, but the amount of grit sandblasting your turbo impeller spinning at 100,000 RPM will.
For a diesel, when you need to start thinking about changes to allow more air for the intake is when you're having trouble managing EGTs for the power you're making.
Thank you as that makes sense and glad asked the question. As someone who used them from race cars, to rock buggies to my daily drivers gas motors this is a new arena -- hence why I posted the question.
Thank you as that makes sense and glad asked the question. As someone who used them from race cars, to rock buggies to my daily drivers gas motors this is a new arena -- hence why I posted the question.
I have heard of a few folks running K&N air filters and they seem to like them, IMHO if your going the re-useable filter route their are much better options out there. S&B being one of the more popular, their filter specs are very comparable to OEM. Personally, I avoid K&N the flow is great but the filtration is lackluster. My father ran a K&N kit on his 2000 7.3 back in the day, lasted one plow season. The amount of salt fines the filter allowed through was staggering, toasted a GTP38. That said the amsoil nano cone filter I was running at the time on my dodge, was only marginally better. Both ended up in the trash.
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