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Just went on S&B's website and there's no body mount listings for the 17 - 19 or 20-22s.
They must still be on the drawing board.
I think the +17 on up body mounts are hydraulic units which should last a lot longer. As for the older Super Duty body mounts, a good quality silicone spray once a year is your best friend.
I think the +17 on up body mounts are hydraulic units which should last a lot longer. As for the older Super Duty body mounts, a good quality silicone spray once a year is your best friend.
Hydraulic huh? New info for me thanks...I will have to check that out.
I think the yearly application of Carwell Products oil probably adds to the life of my body mounts...
What's the consensus on doing the mounts at home? Any tools other than the required wrenches and a floor jack needed? I watched the S&B YouTube video and it didn't look too difficult. One question I had was can I do them one at a time or do they all need to be loosen up to raise the body enough to switch one out?
Thanks! It was an Alaska truck long before an Arizona truck. Had some slight rusted both issues. The best break-free I’ve ever used is a mixture of ATF and acetone. Works like a charm, but will eat through a plastic spray bottle after a couple of months.
What's the consensus on doing the mounts at home? Any tools other than the required wrenches and a floor jack needed? I watched the S&B YouTube video and it didn't look too difficult. One question I had was can I do them one at a time or do they all need to be loosen up to raise the body enough to switch one out?
You'll need something to heat up the bolts. I used a hand-held propane type torch with a map gas cylinder. I also heard someone used an electric induction heater gun
You can heat from the head of the bolt underneath, but it takes a while for the heat to travel to the other end of the bolt where the thread lock actually is. If you have time and energy, you can pull your front fender liners to get to the threads at the actual cage nut to heat them there... but might be more likely to catch stuff on fire. But heating that area works MUCH better that heating the wrong end of the bolt. lol
I unbolted the driver side first. Jacked cab up in each area to get old out and new in... then set the cab back down and got the bolts started. I then unbolted the passenger side, lifted, swapped, dropped and got those bolts started. Then torqued everything down to 76 ft-lbs. I didn't want to undo the whole cab and have it shift too much and create a huge pain in the ****.
On these model years you only need to remove the bolts from the underside. No need to access anything from the inside unless you break the cage nut.
My main reason for wanted to do them one at a time is because the rear two are completely shot and I would like to get them done ASAP to stop the banging every time I hit a bump in the road. I'll do the rest next spring when it's not freezing out.
Edit: I'm also a little nervous about having a shop do the work as I'm afraid they will put an impact wrench on the nuts and spin the cage nuts and then charge me for all the extra labor involved. I suppose I can try and get a quoted price beforehand but I suspect they will renege on that when it takes them double the hours to complete the repair.
My main reason for wanted to do them one at a time is because the rear two are completely shot and I would like to get them done ASAP to stop the banging every time I hit a bump in the road.
The only problem I can see with only doing one or two at a time is.... If you don't loosen all/most of the bolts, you may not be able to jack the cab up enough to get the bushings out/in. You need to be able to jack it up about 2 inches for the bushings to clear the frame tabs. If 7 of the 8 mounts are still bolted down tight, I doubt there will be enough flex to give yo the room you need. But you/we won't know for sure til you try it.
The only problem I can see with only doing one or two at a time is.... If you don't loosen all/most of the bolts, you may not be able to jack the cab up enough to get the bushings out/in. You need to be able to jack it up about 2 inches for the bushings to clear the frame tabs. If 7 of the 8 mounts are still bolted down tight, I doubt there will be enough flex to give yo the room you need. But you/we won't know for sure til you try it.
Good points. I suppose loosening them all up is not wasted effort as that should just make the bolts all that much easier to remove in the spring when I do the rest. Fortunately I only have 6 mounts to change out on my extended cab.
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