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OP, have the batteries been tested yet and/or have you tried the truck with either new batteries in place and/or on jumper cables? It's the quick and simple way to confirm or rule out a faulty battery.
Alternator back in, still no change. Unplugged the ABS module while running and voltage is still wonky. Anyone want to buy a nice excursion with compounds? lol
these are the codes while running (ABS module unplugged)
Did you follow Mikes advise above? It takes milliseconds for the smaller gauge wires to melt when you have a voltage short like that causing who knows what kind of problems. Maybe the PCM took a hit.
I’ve done everything suggested so far, with no change. Cannot seem to isolate the problem. Going to send my fuse block in to be checked out since it’s under warranty.
PCM is good. Glow plug light does not come on. It’s a constant up and down with voltage as well, like clockwork, up and down every second or two. Acts like a relay switching honestly. Or a faulty regulator.
Did you do the test where you pull fuses one at a time until it stops cycling, to try to identify where the draw is coming from?
Pulling one fuse at a time and putting it back before you pull the next, and do it to the under dash fuse box, then if no results, do it to the one in the engine bay, do the relays as well, pull them one at a time to see if pulling a certain one out, stops the problem.
If none of that produces a difference, then one fuse box at a time, and while taking notes of where each one came from, start pulling fuses, and don't put them back in, in case some of shorted together by melted wires. You should find a culprit(s) before the fuse box is empty, if not try the other one.
Is it possible to fry a battery and it still test good?
Yes, but exceedingly rare, and usually indicative of a physical issue inside the battery that is only intermittently causing a problem, i don't think it applies in your case, especially if you have dual batteries, and already tried one, then the other, etc...
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