Memory Steer With New Ball Joints
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4th Gear
Joined: Nov 2022
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Memory Steer With New Ball Joints
Good Evening,
I installed a new set of Motorcraft ball joints on the drivers side of my 2006 F350 4wd about 500 miles ago. Since then I have been having a big problem with memory steer. I've tried taking it all back apart and re-doing the ball joint torque sequence and greasing the joints, but they are still unbelievably stiff once torqued down. It still turns freely with the upper joint fully torqued and the lower around 80, but past that it is almost too stiff to turn the knuckle by hand. Any ideas as to what could cause this? Thanks in advance.
Update: I threw out the brand new Motorcraft ball joints, and put Moog on the truck, and the problem is fixed. Thanks for the input.
I installed a new set of Motorcraft ball joints on the drivers side of my 2006 F350 4wd about 500 miles ago. Since then I have been having a big problem with memory steer. I've tried taking it all back apart and re-doing the ball joint torque sequence and greasing the joints, but they are still unbelievably stiff once torqued down. It still turns freely with the upper joint fully torqued and the lower around 80, but past that it is almost too stiff to turn the knuckle by hand. Any ideas as to what could cause this? Thanks in advance.
Update: I threw out the brand new Motorcraft ball joints, and put Moog on the truck, and the problem is fixed. Thanks for the input.
Last edited by DClawson73; Nov 20, 2022 at 02:40 PM. Reason: Update
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 500
Likes: 38
From: Pacific Northwest
If its the same as my 03, the top ball joint has a split bushing with a chamfer on it.
So if you tighten it down to hard it will literally bind the hub in place pretty hard.
You have to re-tighten them in the proper sequence again and it should be gone.
MAKE SURE they feel relatively the same in resistance being pushed back and forth by hand.
EDIT-Wrong ball joint
So if you tighten it down to hard it will literally bind the hub in place pretty hard.
You have to re-tighten them in the proper sequence again and it should be gone.
MAKE SURE they feel relatively the same in resistance being pushed back and forth by hand.
EDIT-Wrong ball joint
Thread Starter
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4th Gear
Joined: Nov 2022
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I tried it by the book, and using the method in your video, and am still having the problem. An additional thing I noticed is that once the lower ball joint is fully tightened, the nut for the upper is very loose. Any other ideas? I guess I could press the new ford joints out and try moog?
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 500
Likes: 38
From: Pacific Northwest
I tried it by the book, and using the method in your video, and am still having the problem. An additional thing I noticed is that once the lower ball joint is fully tightened, the nut for the upper is very loose. Any other ideas? I guess I could press the new ford joints out and try moog?
Make sure that they have the small gap on the top like I said in the video. Thats the binding part.
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4th Gear
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Sorry if I came off as rude, the ford procedure said to tighten the lower to 35 ft-lbs, then the top to 69 ft-lbs, and then the lower to 150. Once the lower is at 150, the nut for the upper ball joint it extremely loose. Maybe the joints weren't pressed in right? I cleaned up the assembly, and made sure the ball joint was fully seated, but the upper does stick out the bottom of the hole slightly further than the old moog one did.
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