2.5 MPG revisited
2.5 MPG revisited
I posted this in another group on here before I knew exactly what engine I had. I assume there are different people in this group so I thought posting here might be enlightening. It's a 351W - 1982. The problem is in the title. On top of that problem, and as you can see in the video - it's a sloth. I got it up to 50mph once, on a downhill slope. I thought it was bad gas but that's been run through and replaced and stabil'd. One theory is muffler clogged, I don't have the money to replace them right now so cutting them off is on hold (might want to drive it) until I do. Based on the footage, sound, etc. What is the opinion of "the troubleshooters" in here? Sitting here tonight I also realized that I have not yet opened up the air cleaner so that is on the list (I can afford that!) - rats nest would be a welcome surprise there oddly enough. I would think a vacuum leak would make it idle lousey, it's smooth.
Does this vehicle have a cat converter on it? An original '82 cat was a hugh box thing and they were notorious for melting and almost totally plugging the exhaust.
Another possibility is the heat riser valve, this "genius" design included a flapper valve on the passenger side right after the exhaust manifold that completely blocks the pipe when closed and forces exhaust from that side to go through the crossover port under the carb to the drivers side. The valve is vacuum controlled and the idea is this system helps warm up the intake/carb quickly at cold starts so it settles into it's tuning range quicker, but if this valve gets stuck in the closed position the motor will be seriously choked when driving under load.. and in '82 it didn't make much power to begin with.. 150hp for the 2bbl, 200hp for the 4bbl version. A stuck closed valve would not be surprising to find on a vehicle this old, guaranteed the vacuum line has crumbled to dust by now and if the control mechanism no longer functions I don't know what would keep the valve open, I used to see these things welded or tied back with wire in the open position all the time back in the day.
Another possibility is the heat riser valve, this "genius" design included a flapper valve on the passenger side right after the exhaust manifold that completely blocks the pipe when closed and forces exhaust from that side to go through the crossover port under the carb to the drivers side. The valve is vacuum controlled and the idea is this system helps warm up the intake/carb quickly at cold starts so it settles into it's tuning range quicker, but if this valve gets stuck in the closed position the motor will be seriously choked when driving under load.. and in '82 it didn't make much power to begin with.. 150hp for the 2bbl, 200hp for the 4bbl version. A stuck closed valve would not be surprising to find on a vehicle this old, guaranteed the vacuum line has crumbled to dust by now and if the control mechanism no longer functions I don't know what would keep the valve open, I used to see these things welded or tied back with wire in the open position all the time back in the day.
That is definitely a 351w.. the valve cover shape gives it away.
P.S. I skimmed through the second video with the sound muted so I didn't hear any questions you asked in it at that time.
Do you know if that engine is original to the vehicle? There is a block casting number down near the starter that will ID it's relative vintage.
Once you have confirmed that there are no intake or exhaust restrictions the next thing to look at would be ignition timing, if it is set wrong or isn't advancing the motor will be way down on power.
P.S. I skimmed through the second video with the sound muted so I didn't hear any questions you asked in it at that time.
Do you know if that engine is original to the vehicle? There is a block casting number down near the starter that will ID it's relative vintage.
Once you have confirmed that there are no intake or exhaust restrictions the next thing to look at would be ignition timing, if it is set wrong or isn't advancing the motor will be way down on power.
This video shows the "van" and tells the story on it. Short version is "yes, it's the original motor" and you can watch the video to hear how I know that.
I'm going to go look for that valve thing in the header pipe and maybe take the air cleaner cover off today - maybe. Can't rush into these things you know....
I'm going to go look for that valve thing in the header pipe and maybe take the air cleaner cover off today - maybe. Can't rush into these things you know....
Possible Title fix
Vermont DMV VD-119 form
1. Bill of sale
2. Theft report (to prove its not stolen, you can use an online print out, or take the VIN to your local constabulary and have them print one out for you)
3. 6% sales tax that matches bill of sale
4. $108 per year of registration (1 or 2 years)
Send check ($108 + sales tax) to Vermont DMV
Wait 3-4 weeks. You will get tags and temp reg. first, transferrable reg. about a week later.
They will not care that you do not have a Vermont address.
Vermont DMV VD-119 form
1. Bill of sale
2. Theft report (to prove its not stolen, you can use an online print out, or take the VIN to your local constabulary and have them print one out for you)
3. 6% sales tax that matches bill of sale
4. $108 per year of registration (1 or 2 years)
Send check ($108 + sales tax) to Vermont DMV
Wait 3-4 weeks. You will get tags and temp reg. first, transferrable reg. about a week later.
They will not care that you do not have a Vermont address.
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