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Anybody installed a hand throttle on their truck and have pics to share? I'm in the preliminary hemming and hawing stage, thinking about adding one. The truck has a 351W 2bbl.
My 1948 Jeep came from the factory with one. I love it and use it a lot. I'd like one on my truck for occasionally charging the battery when dry camping out in the boonies.
My mom is a paraplegic and uses hand controls in her van but it's just an extension of the foot pedals which doesn't sound like what you're trying to accomplish. If you mean a lever to engage throttle I can see it working but not sure how you would run it.
If you mean a lever to engage throttle I can see it working but not sure how you would run it.
On my old Jeep, the factory set-up is a push/pull cable and **** on the dash, just like the choke cable next to it. It is connected to the normal throttle linkage at the carb. It's a fork thingie that can only pull on the linkage, but doesn't restrict you from also using the gas pedal.
On my truck, I'd like to use a push/pull cable with a **** under the bottom edge of the dash. To tie into the carb,
I'd rig a cable next to the speed control actuator cable. That uses a piece of ball chain (like on a closet light fixture) so it can only pull, but not push. That would allow normal operation of the gas pedal above whatever RPM had been set manually.
Karl
It sounds like you need a 3G ALT where the out put is high at idle so not much of a need to up the RPM.
So why cant you set it up like the Jeep and have it work?
Dave ----
You could add a slipping connector to a choke cable to actuate the hand throttle.
Take an L shaped piece of metal with holes drilled to both legs. Mount it on the throttle linkage lever. Run a choke cable through the L and put a stop on the bitter end of the cable. Make sure the cable can slide through the hole easily so the pedal works freely. Then the cable can pull open the throttle but does not interfere with normal operation.
Please forgive the very crude bar napkin drawing (throttle is closed and rotates left to open):
It sounds like you need a 3G ALT where the out put is high at idle so not much of a need to up the RPM.
While I'm at it, why don't I ditch my factory gauges and go aftermarket?
The trusty 1G serves all my needs. Another reason for a hand throttle is for when starting out on a steep grade with a stick shift. If you manually bump up the idle speed a little, it makes the process less finicky when transitioning your right foot from the brake to the gas pedal. I know I can do the parking brake trick, but that's all or nothing, plus the release handle is awkward to reach.
Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
So why cant you set it up like the Jeep and have it work?
The Jeep's throttle linkage is a rigid metal rod between carb and pedal arm. No cable or anything like that.
Sorry if anybody's ears are still ringing from the sound of me slapping my forehead. Just had an epiphany.
My 351W is equipped with a deceleration throttle kicker system. It's designed to hold the throttle open slightly when decelerating to prevent the fuel/air mixture from getting too rich. I deactivated it years ago because it also limits engine braking. However, all parts are still installed.
The throttle linkage has an adjustable vacuum actuator designed to hold 1700 RPM. An electrically operated solenoid switches the vacuum and vents the actuator. Perfect! See this wiring diagram, with the solenoid in the middle:
I just need to reroute wire #934 to provide a ground via a toggle switch.at the dash. Voila! Instead of the throttle kicker module supplying the ground, I'll do it manually. Can't get much easier than that.
There may be a snafu in your epiphany. A lot of these throttle kickers are not strong enough to move the throttle open. They will hold the throttle open once you help it with your foot. If that happens don't think it's weak or broken, many of them are designed that way.
There may be a snafu in your epiphany. A lot of these throttle kickers are not strong enough to move the throttle open...
Good point. I had hoped to play with the kicker today, but it's raining sideways at the moment.
Even if I have to blip the gas pedal first, I might be okay with that. With my Jeep, there's enough friction in the cable alone that I usually help it by pressing the gas pedal at the same time.
Good point. I had hoped to play with the kicker today, but it's raining sideways at the moment.
Even if I have to blip the gas pedal first, I might be okay with that. With my Jeep, there's enough friction in the cable alone that I usually help it by pressing the gas pedal at the same time.
That will work. Activate your switch and then goose the throttle and the kicker should extend and stay extended till you turn off the switch.
Back in the old days, before speed control, truckers used to keep a broom stick in the cab to hold down the throttle with the other end lodged appropriately. Why don't you whittle up something to stick between the gas pedal and the seat?
My 351W is equipped with a deceleration throttle kicker system. It's designed to hold the throttle open slightly when decelerating to prevent the fuel/air mixture from getting too rich. I deactivated it years ago because it also limits engine braking. However, all parts are still installed.
The throttle linkage has an adjustable vacuum actuator designed to hold 1700 RPM. An electrically operated solenoid switches the vacuum and vents the actuator...
I just need to reroute wire #934 to provide a ground via a toggle switch.at the dash. Voila! Instead of the throttle kicker module supplying the ground, I'll do it manually. Can't get much easier than that.
A little update. Finally had some time to play with this idea. Turns out the control solenoid and actuator both have vacuum leaks. Not worth tracking down replacements, so I plugged the supply line again. Oh well, so much for this plan.
Back to the figuring out a manual cable. I think I could use a ball chain linkage similar to the speed control system.
I decided to go with a toggle switch on the dash. I replaced the leaky throttle kicker actuator and fixed the control solenoid. I tapped into the existing control circuit at the kicker module under the dash, so the wiring changes were minimal. The toggle switch provides a ground, just like the original circuit via the control module.
Here's a view of the new control switch under the dash. (The adjacent switch is for mirror heat, with an extra spot in the middle for future use.) For reasons unknown, some people use this space to add mechanical gauges of unknown accuracy. I prefer to do something useful with this dashboard real estate. Note the factory gauges in the background, still functioning quite well.
The system works slicker than snot. I set the actuator to 1750 RPM. Originally the vacuum line had a delay valve. This caused the actuator to take 30 seconds to open the throttle. I removed the delay valve and the speed increase is almost instant.
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