I DID do a search for windshields in the Excursion section, but gave up after a few pages....apologies if this belongs on another thread.

I have started a quest to sound proof my 2005 4x4 6.0. I have boat loads of Kilmat, Siless closed cell foam and 200sqft of mass load vinyl being shipped now (Jesus $$$$$). I even ordered some cloth tape to use on fasteners, wires, etc. Basically, I'm going full bore here. I regularly make 2k mile round trips and lately the droning from engine, tires, age have all started pushing me past the limit. It is loud inside. Conversations are difficult, especially if you have to talk to the quiet kid in the rear seat. No more...I'm gutting the entire interior, minus the dash because that's a full on nightmare, and I'm hitting every panel, nook and cranny, dang near full coverage with everything and doubling up the MLV in the doors and firewall. Yes it's going to painful, no there's not much room....doing it anyway. I'll try to keep track of how much I actually used and how much you can actually get away with packing into various areas. FYI, You don't really need all THAT much Kilmat type butyl rubber, the biggest benefits will come from the foam and MLV, but you do have to have enough butyl rubber to kill all of the panel resonance. Yes, I'm doing the roof too. If I can pop something off, it's getting treated.

In my researching about why newer cars are so much quieter I learned a lot. Luxury brands even include active noise cancellation via speakers pointed at the source playing cancelling frequencies. Aside from the fact that the panels are better sound proofed against resonance, the biggest disconnect between new cars and Excursions was the addition of "acoustic glass". New cars are typically double paned with a layer of sound dampening material sandwiched in, nylon from what I read. Whatever, it works. Guess who makes acoustic glass for an Excursion? Literally nobody. So I got a little creating and started searching for something to cobble together. Ford did not even start offering this type of glass until 2014. Dug a little further and I confirmed by dimensions and even the rate of curve that Ford used the EXACT same windshield from 2000 through 2016. See where this is going?

Part number DW02022 will get you the acoustic glass with the Super Duty logo blasted across the top the mirror area
Part number DW02060 will get you the acoustic glass with ONLY the dotted sun shading over the mirror area

I bought the Ex from Arizona and the windshield looked as though it was sandblasted. With all of the micro divots, sun glare was literally blinding depending on the angle. Add in the fact that I caught a few rocks that put a few 2 foot cracks in it, obviously I was going to replace it anyway. I figured acoustic glass would cost way more - IT DOES NOT! I did some shopping around and it cost me literally nothing extra where I got it replaced. Other places I looked into, they were actually charging MORE for the Excursion specific labeled glass....

Sound proofing wise, this is a drop in the bucket really. I don't have a standalone decibel meter, I just use 3 different ones on my phone and they all agreed that I started at around 80db at highway speeds and it was still at 80db average with the new windshield. Buy hey, sound proofing/deadening is about the whole package working together. The biggest difference will come with the other materials I ordered. I am still going to do more research and measuring to see if I can find any sort of acoustic glass that I can put in any of the other 6 doors or cargo area...if I find something that will work I'll repost it to here. I'll also post up about the total db reduction and overall feel of the deadeners because the numbers don't tell the full story. You can have the exact same decibel reading, but if the frequencies are all lower it will still "feel" quieter.

 

Fwiw the Excursion came with a “acoustic” glass windshield but it wasn’t marketed as such, back then it was just “safety” glass.

Other than the factory sound deadening the 2 areas that need the most attention are the roof and rear wheel wells.

You can make some small improvements to the factory woven air dams in the rear of the front fenders,

same goes for the under hood blanket.

getting rid of the exhaust drone can be troublesome.

Don’t overlook the door seals

 

This is good info, as i have a number of rock chips in dauntless's windshield, and i replaced it only about a year ago, but i drive a lot of rural roads and highway so...

 

Do you know if they ever made "safety" glass for anything besides the windshield? I've been looking and have not found anything yet, but would really like to price out something that can help on the windows. Everything depends on where you're sitting in the vehicle, but those windows are literally right next to your ears so there's some good potential to really cut it down even with just doing the front windows. I'm already planning to hit all of the areas you mentioned, ordered enough kilmat that I should be able to get it under the hood too. The door seals I might pass on though. Mine seem to be in pretty good condition and they are still soft and supple, and I don't have any wind noise. This has already cost a bunch so I might just push some vinyl tubing through the seals to keep them pressed out if it does become an issue. I did that on my '95 F350 instead of buying new seals and it worked perfect, possibly even better than a new seal would have

 

Thanks for the windshield part numbers. Acoustic glass or not, the windshield in mine has a 18+ inch long crack and I want to replace it with one that has the superduty script across the top anyway. The one glass company I called said the Excursions and trucks must use different windshield because they don't show them as a cross capability, kinda figured they were full of,,,,stuff.
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Avoid the major companies.... I initially tried to reach out to all of the major vendors when price comparing and they all told me not just NO, but they wouldn't even allow their guys to install the one that I wanted. Still got the high quotes for them nonetheless and they were all at least $125 over what I ended up paying. Here in Texas at the local level....nobody cares. You want to duct tape a civic's windshield in place, they'll do it so long as you pay lol. To be fair, they did ask me if I was sure about it.

 

My Excursion rattles and squeaks so much I could never tell the difference, but can confirm the "Super Duty" windshield fits. There's a salvage yard near downtown Dallas that I've used time and time again on my windows replacements, and they popped in the SD version without even blinking.

 

Also, some nuggets for the OP and whomever else may stumble upon this, if you haven't already found them. I come from a deep car audio background....

DIYMA - Sound Deadener Shootout, v1

DIYMA - Sound Deadener Shootout, v2

https://m.facebook.com/groups/651457188787366/?mibextid=6NoCDW&refsrc=deprecated&_rdr"

ResoNIX Reference Guide

 

MOTHER OF GOD - that was a long read! Ya, I really read the whole thing....so much good information in there. Even if the information is older, the principles are still applicable. For what it's worth, I'm not trying to build something for SEMA nor an audio showdown. My goal was making this monster much more drivable over long distances.

My process was simple - internet search for the best/most available products, check reviews for everything and rank it completely and subjectively for me, then search for a few hours to find price comparisons for everything. In the end, I went with what I felt was the most affordable of the best options that everyone else seems to be happy with over the long term. Price was an absolute must in the calculation because the amount of material you need for an excursion is double (and sometimes more) than you would need for the typical car soundproofing. I spent a boat load already... I did not go as deep as the threads you shared did nor did I actually go through and try to find out about the butyl rubber chemical compositions of competitors.

In the end the same principles apply. You need to have some sort of a butyl rubber compound against the metal, it's basically every type of foil backed rubber advertised. After that you need to have a decoupling layer, most agree that closed cell foam is the best. Last you need some layering of mass loaded vinyl before you reinstall the carpet. When it comes to dampning with CCF or MLV, it's all about the thickness/weight. There's only so much you can have when trying to put it under carpet, but I'm going to do what I can. The only thing that I'm really worried about is the overall added thickness because if I go too much, then the carpet will never be able to go back down under the door sills, look like @$$ and eventually get torn up by foot traffic. Part of the plan here was to strip the interior and get everything installed then check carpet fitment. If I'm not maxed out, add another layer and so on until I find the max breaking point of materials versus height. In the end I just want to be able to tell people "You can get away with 80mil foil backed butyl, add 157mil CCF and then 1, 2 or 3 layers of MLV". I ordered the 1lb MLV which is 1/8" thick, but I'm sure there will be more than enough room to double up. I didn't want to order 1/4" thick 2lb MLV only to discover that it was too thick and end up wasting time/money. Thus, order small and stack to limit. Most of us don't want to embark on a project like this without knowing at least a ballpark of materials and prices which, again, is the goal to show. This is a bit of a side topic away from the acoustic glass stuff though. I do plan to post the this sound proofing material into a separate thread along with the results. I'm also considering different options for the roof in order to max out the distance between the roof and the headliner without making anything bulge, but I'll worry about maxing that out AFTER I'm done doing the floor because that requires the most disassembly and I don't want have this thing off the road for more than 1 day at a time. I have read some good things about neoprene up there though if anyone wants to chime in.

As it stands right now for the relevancy to this thread, I'm not finding much in the way of glass options for the rest of the truck. I am beyond persistent though...if I strike out in the short term, I'll still be searching for months and just not tell people. What I have found though is that there are some companies advertising the acoustic films that you can apply like window tinting. From all accounts, these are complete garbage with no measurable effects of any sort. Not sure about you guys, but I'm not a fan of snake oil.

 

I did my entire interior including the roof with Kilmat. I don't recall the decibel level but it was over 85 (if memory serves). Now I still had all terrain tires and it dropped to the high 70's. Once I replaced the tires with Michelin's, it's now 68-70dB. I'm having my two front rows recovered with Richmond leather in a couple weeks. After that the roof will get coated with Line-X for added protection from the elements. The heat and sound effects should be improved as well. Having the butyl rubber on the roof made a huge improvement but the sun still beats on the painted steel. Having a layer of Line-X will reduce the suns effect. Btw, while you're in that rear passenger quarter panel, coat the air duct along the "C" pillar. An a note of caution, I had mine under the quarter panels layered 2-3 thick, especially around the wheel wells. We also retained the factory molded rubber mat and it was almost too thick for the panels to back on.

Have you looked into what you're going to use under the hood? I'm unsure if Kilmat is the right product as the heat may melt the butyl rubber. I have a hood blanket but want to replace it with something better. Does anyone know what the best product for heat and sound is to use under the hood?

 

I'm honestly not sure about the dB readings because I'm not using anything that was actually designed for measuring sound. I did some research and found that phone apps aren't exactly great or precise. I couldn't really justify a standalone sound meter for this singular task so I skipped it. I don't really care anyways, the phone app is just there to measure before and after. If both measurements are +2 then it still worked....just with the wrong baseline. I just want to be able to say "2 layers butyl, 1 layer foam, 2 layers MLV reduced by x dB" and that will make me happy enough.

On the roof I know that the butyl might have some issues with sticking in high heat, this is Texas after all... That said, I'm not overly concerned because I'm going to squish things to the max up there and the headliner *should* hold everything up without issue. If there's room, I do have some pretty legit spray adhesive that might allow MLV to be added but I am not sure there will be room even if I only put 1 layer of everything in. Definitely not going to be putting any bed liner type stuff on my roof as this winter I'm planning to weld up a roof rack to go up there and that would kind of wreck those plans.

I do plan to hit all of the AC ducts as well, heard they vibrate audibly if you sound deaden everything EXCEPT the ducts. Reading forums pays off

As far as the hood goes, I'm not 100% sure yet. I have read that Kilmat works and that it doesn't work. It's stated to hold up to 212 and can do short runs at 400, but that seems quite optimistic to me...especially with a turbo only a few inches away. I'm sure I will do something, but we'll see where everything is at once the interior is done. That's a big enough project on its own right now. If I find something that seems perfect I'll post it up.

 

Butyl rubber is heavy. The entire interior required 11 boxes of Kilmat. Each box = 36 sq ft = 16.8 lbs. (~184 lbs)

With the added material in your plan, consider the added weight and clearance for the panels.

post pictures during the process. We love pictures!

 

Actually, the butyl rubber is quite light from what I've picked up. Sadly, I only had 10 of the 13 boxes delivered so I can't start yet which is aggravating. I could only order the 18sqft boxes though so I have 234sqft coming which I thought was an over estimation, but by your count I should have gotten 396sqft? I was only planning on adding a single layer of the stuff.

Weight wise, the only thing I'm worried about is the vinyl. Even with the 1lb stuff, I had 2 boxes delivered that were 109lbs each... I mean, the adhesive I have is some pretty legit stuff, but holy hell I'm not sure about how well it's going to hold this up on the roof or walls with as heavy as it is.

Thickness wise, I think that everything I ordered should fit under everything ok-ish but yeah, I was NOT expecting the weight.

 

When I had my Ex repaired after a hurricane, the Ford dealer installed a windshield with the words "super duty" on the outside, yes they fit.

 

I would love to know which windshield has the “SUPER DUTY” showing right on the outside. Do you have the OEM part number?